Sludge removal question

[Gary Allan]

Originally Posted By: BrianWC
ATF has changed over time, from what I understand. However, the only good explanation I've heard for any cleaning capability is it's light 20 weight which might remove some not so stubborn loose crud in the engine.


The para-myth was supported by GM endorsing the use of ATF to quiet lifters in some SBC engines in the late 60's-early 70's. It was assumed that the lifter tick was due to fouled lifters. The ATF was used as a thinning agent for the oil. Viola~ ATF is then regarded as a cleaner.

 

[BrianWC]

Originally Posted By: dargo
Until then, kero, seafoam, diesel, will always work....



Always? Not attacking or anything. It's just none of the always stuff worked that well for me. I am NOT trying to veer this thread into discussing another product. It just hasn't been my experience to have much luck with them in cleaning my particular (and seemingly very stubborn) deposits. ALL I'm saying.

 

[Louie's gone fishing]

One mix used in the 50's to check to see if the ticking was a fouled lifter or mechanical damage was to add one quart of MMO and 4 ounces of carb cleaner and run it for 20 minutes. This was for overhead valve engine and one would have a modified valve cover with sides only and some of the top cut away. Then while the mix is running you press on the rockers with your thumb while it's running to listen for changes in noise. Then you sat around with other mechanics and made guess' as to how long to do this and maybe to repeat it. If it did not work you could justify a partial tear-down. Today they just look for error codes and start changing parts. Same thing, new tools.

 

[Gary Allan]

Originally Posted By: BrianWC
Originally Posted By: dargo
Until then, kero, seafoam, diesel, will always work....



Always? Not attacking or anything. It's just none of the always stuff worked that well for me. I am NOT trying to veer this thread into discussing another product. It just hasn't been my experience to have much luck with them in cleaning my particular (and seemingly very stubborn) deposits. ALL I'm saying.



Well, Brian, sure some of those remedies "worked". Until about the past decade, if you were actually employing one of the more draconian techniques, the car itself was mostly written off already. I've used kero in a can before coming to BITOG ..just for the fun of it. That is, I never even knew if I even had a sludge/varnish problem to begin with. On bona fide sludged up engines, I have also done the diesel fuel/ATF 50:50 mix for the 20 minute deal. But it was with an engine that I had already written off and there was really nothing to lose in the process.

There were no alternatives in the past aside from physically tearing down the engine to clean it out.

Things change

 

[BrianWC]

No, don't get me wrong, I don't understand my car, either!

I KNOW that guy with the Sienna that posted on here a while back cleaned out significant deposits with kero. It just seemed a tad too risky for my oil pickup mesh. I know other cars don't have the same fine mesh and c.rappy fragile oil pump my 9-5 has and it may not be as big of a deal.

I'd always assumed one flush or so and any deposits would be cleaned right up. That's why I'm always willing to join in a flush thread. It's something I'd always done to all my cars in the past. I'm anxious to see if/when anything else comes out that is newer/better. So please, no one think I am in here to shill for anything!

 

[Steve S]

Originally Posted By: ZZman
If most sludge in a "normal" motor is in the pan then might this work to get rid of it?

Warm the car up really good
Drain the oil and reinstall plug
Pour a gallon or so of kerosene in the oil filler hole.
Let the car sit for an hour or so not running
Then drain again.

Do you think this would dissolve any sludge?
Sludge would be anywhere there is not lots of oil movement / turbulence Is this a I wonder question or is there an engine in mind? Usually if the oil is changed on a reasonable schedule there shouldn't be much sludge . Sludge while not good will not really hurt untill there is enough to clog the oil pump pickup.

 

[dargo]

Originally Posted By: BrianWC

Always? Not attacking or anything. It's just none of the always stuff worked that well for me. I am NOT trying to veer this thread into discussing another product. It just hasn't been my experience to have much luck with them in cleaning my particular (and seemingly very stubborn) deposits. ALL I'm saying.



Samething on here about seafaom..People love it for cleaning intake along with water; I still have yet to see anything.

I have tried ARX, kero, diesel, ARX, LC20, 131 etc and I am not going on what direction won...Since it is not what "best though according to all the posts on this board."

My point is use anything and stay with what works. YMMV

 

[JohnBrowning]

If it is not a sludged up beast and is just a little neglected fill with fresh cheap oil like Walmart brand or Tropartic and add one whole can of B12 Chemtool. The engine should be cold. Start it up and let it run at a fast idle like 1000-1200 RPM's for 30 minutes. Ph also use a fresh and cheap oil filter! This will clean out an amazeing amount of junk. Now if it is a sludged up beast then Auto-Rx is the best way to go. Heck even if it is in sound shape Auto-Rx or LubeControl are the two best choices oh I almost forgot about Nutra 131 tht stuff is excellent too! If you are going to use solvents though like Kerosine,diesel,etc.... you might as well go with a strong product that has several powerful solvents in one can like B12! I have used B12 chemtool since 1991 in everything I have owned or my parents have owned until I found out about Auto-Rx and Lube Control. I normaly used B12 on a well maintained engine every 50,000 miles just to make sure their were no deposits. I have never had a problem with seals or anything else.

You will be amazed at how black that fresh cheap oil you put in will be even on a low milage motor like 36,000 miles after the 30 minutes!

 

[BrianWC]

Originally Posted By: dargo


Samething on here about seafaom..People love it for cleaning intake along with water; I still have yet to see anything.


Finally, someone who agrees with me on Seafoam. I think the slight oil base it has impedes it's cleaning ability or at least prevents the product from having as much concentrated solvent. Seafoam is a waste, IMHO. B-12 Chemtool forever for intake/CC cleaning.

Quote:
I have tried ARX, kero, diesel, ARX, LC20, 131 etc and I am not going on what direction won...Since it is not what "best though according to all the posts on this board."

My point is use anything and stay with what works. YMMV


No, say it. We all want to know what works. That's why we're all here! That's why I took pics of pretty much every treatment I did. I'm sorry if I sound like a broken record in reporting my results. But as long as people ask questions, I'll give the benefit of my personal experience to the thread.