yep he saved a bunch of money on oil changes all right.
Sludge: Clean before Kreen? New valve stem seals?
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Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: tig1
I would clean this up by hand, both the head area and then remove the pan and clean that. If you try to clean as you run the engine, sludge may clog the oil pick and ruin the engine. I have seen this happen. After completely cleaning the engine then go with M1 5-30HM and change every 3-5K for 2-3 oil changes then go out to 10K OCIs .
Seriously? 10k OCIs on this engine? I don't think so.
This thing needs a few hours worth of manual cleaning followed by short OCIs of 500-1,000 miles depending on how dark the oil gets with a good cleaner at small doses (Kreen in this case). Repeat for the next 10k miles, pulling the valve cover every other OCI to see the results.
I guess you didn't fully read my post.
Originally Posted By: tig1
I would clean this up by hand, both the head area and then remove the pan and clean that. If you try to clean as you run the engine, sludge may clog the oil pick and ruin the engine. I have seen this happen. After completely cleaning the engine then go with M1 5-30HM and change every 3-5K for 2-3 oil changes then go out to 10K OCIs .
Seriously? 10k OCIs on this engine? I don't think so.
This thing needs a few hours worth of manual cleaning followed by short OCIs of 500-1,000 miles depending on how dark the oil gets with a good cleaner at small doses (Kreen in this case). Repeat for the next 10k miles, pulling the valve cover every other OCI to see the results.
I guess you didn't fully read my post.
I just did an 02 Camry that was worse. 93k and the oil light at idle. Today I fired it up and it drove nice until I stomped on the gas. Flickering oil light again. Pulled the pan and the pickup was obstructed again. Cleaned it out and will run it again tomorrow. BTW, I bought the valvemaster and it works well. Pics on my FB page here. http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a...mp;l=0cfd34a0f7
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Originally Posted By: ebshumidors
I just did an 02 Camry that was worse. 93k and the oil light at idle. Today I fired it up and it drove nice until I stomped on the gas. Flickering oil light again. Pulled the pan and the pickup was obstructed again. Cleaned it out and will run it again tomorrow. BTW, I bought the valvemaster and it works well. Pics on my FB page here. http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a...mp;l=0cfd34a0f7
Wow! That's some serious abuse (sludge and hard deposits) in your 2AZ-FE! How many ks in the odo when you took over? I bet the previous owner(s) didn't even change oil at all.
My wifey's 04 2AZFE was bought with 58k and now over 146k, OCI with whatever onsale (national brand name, dino, semi-syn, etc.) every 8k, and not a drop of oil burned.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Q.
I just did an 02 Camry that was worse. 93k and the oil light at idle. Today I fired it up and it drove nice until I stomped on the gas. Flickering oil light again. Pulled the pan and the pickup was obstructed again. Cleaned it out and will run it again tomorrow. BTW, I bought the valvemaster and it works well. Pics on my FB page here. http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a...mp;l=0cfd34a0f7
Wow! That's some serious abuse (sludge and hard deposits) in your 2AZ-FE! How many ks in the odo when you took over? I bet the previous owner(s) didn't even change oil at all.
My wifey's 04 2AZFE was bought with 58k and now over 146k, OCI with whatever onsale (national brand name, dino, semi-syn, etc.) every 8k, and not a drop of oil burned.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Q.
I'd proceed very cautiously with any solvent including Kreen. Clean as much manually as you can get to, then I'd use a half-dose of Kreen for the first couple of low mileage oil changes before I go to a full dose. You do not want all that stuff circulating in your oil and through the bearings at one time. I think I'd load up on the cheapest 5W-30 oil I could find and maybe do a daily oil & filter changes for the first couple of times. When the engine is getting clean I'd return to top quality oil and the correctly spec'ed filter.
What was the fix for these Toyota engines that created this sludge even with by-the-book maintenance?
What was the fix for these Toyota engines that created this sludge even with by-the-book maintenance?
I just bought it and had it towed to the house. 93k on the odo. It was a guy's ex-wife's car. She didn't do the oil changes on time. I put oil in it this am and the oil light was out. I used Walmart hi-milage 5w30 and hope to get 500 miles before I pull the pan again and check the p/u screen.
Originally Posted By: ebshumidors
I just bought it and had it towed to the house. 93k on the odo. It was a guy's ex-wife's car. She didn't do the oil changes on time. I put oil in it this am and the oil light was out. I used Walmart hi-milage 5w30 and hope to get 500 miles before I pull the pan again and check the p/u screen.
You might as well go and buy a case of filters for that vehicle. 500 miles is as far as I would want to go before I did a full OCI.
I just bought it and had it towed to the house. 93k on the odo. It was a guy's ex-wife's car. She didn't do the oil changes on time. I put oil in it this am and the oil light was out. I used Walmart hi-milage 5w30 and hope to get 500 miles before I pull the pan again and check the p/u screen.
You might as well go and buy a case of filters for that vehicle. 500 miles is as far as I would want to go before I did a full OCI.
Yeah, I imagine I'll be shaking stuff loose for a while.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Good golly Miss Molly!
Try a few short runs of any oil and filter and see what happens.
If the really gross debris is gone, then try Kreen, or maybe MMO.
Shop a replacement engine in the meantime.
+1 IMO.... The only hope for this mess is a replacement engine.
Good golly Miss Molly!
Try a few short runs of any oil and filter and see what happens.
If the really gross debris is gone, then try Kreen, or maybe MMO.
Shop a replacement engine in the meantime.
+1 IMO.... The only hope for this mess is a replacement engine.
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Trolling or a joke, possibly?
I say Troll. Welcome to BITOG Troll. Lol
Trolling or a joke, possibly?
I say Troll. Welcome to BITOG Troll. Lol
Originally Posted By: ET16
I've always wondered whether you could take a power washer to such a thing.
Ok get ready for a flame war. But I got proof of my story.
You can. I did a sludged up kia spectra that way a few years ago. Its gone 70k since with out a problem.
If you dont know what your doing, you can really hurt something. The trick is to pull off the valve cover (s) and intake (if its a v6 or v8) and pull the oil pan. This car was a four cylinder so I pulled the valve cover and oil pan. I sprayed it down with super clean and washed it out with a water hose top and bottom. I had to repeat the process a couple times to get it all out. Then I blew it all out with compressed air and re assebled. I filled it with oil un hooked the plug wires and spun it over a few times to get oil moving before I started it. Then I let it run about 10 minutes and changed the oil again.
The trick is to get all the hard crusties and sludge out, because if you dont it will clog the pick up screen. Its also very important to blow out all of the water and get some oil on everything pretty quick so nothing rusts. I honestly wouldnt recommend it to anyone who has never built an engine before because like I said it would be wasy to mess it up.
That was at 90k. The car 40k miles after that with GTX HM and 5k ocis. For the past 30k or so it has been getting PP and PU at 8-10k ocis (all highway, 100-150 miles a day) with mmo added for the last thousand every now and then. It still looks clean and runs good but im still finding little specs of stuff in the oil filter that I suspect are from the ring packs getting cleaned up from the synthetic oil.
Ok bring out the flame thrower
I've always wondered whether you could take a power washer to such a thing.
Ok get ready for a flame war. But I got proof of my story.
You can. I did a sludged up kia spectra that way a few years ago. Its gone 70k since with out a problem.
If you dont know what your doing, you can really hurt something. The trick is to pull off the valve cover (s) and intake (if its a v6 or v8) and pull the oil pan. This car was a four cylinder so I pulled the valve cover and oil pan. I sprayed it down with super clean and washed it out with a water hose top and bottom. I had to repeat the process a couple times to get it all out. Then I blew it all out with compressed air and re assebled. I filled it with oil un hooked the plug wires and spun it over a few times to get oil moving before I started it. Then I let it run about 10 minutes and changed the oil again.
The trick is to get all the hard crusties and sludge out, because if you dont it will clog the pick up screen. Its also very important to blow out all of the water and get some oil on everything pretty quick so nothing rusts. I honestly wouldnt recommend it to anyone who has never built an engine before because like I said it would be wasy to mess it up.
That was at 90k. The car 40k miles after that with GTX HM and 5k ocis. For the past 30k or so it has been getting PP and PU at 8-10k ocis (all highway, 100-150 miles a day) with mmo added for the last thousand every now and then. It still looks clean and runs good but im still finding little specs of stuff in the oil filter that I suspect are from the ring packs getting cleaned up from the synthetic oil.
Ok bring out the flame thrower
So I've noticed a trend lately here with Toyota and sludged up engines. Do we know what oil was used in this engine and at what interval it was run at. If a high quality oil was used then this completely blows holes in our resident copy and paste guru's mantra.
We're service records available?
I've torn apart chev 350 engines that had 300000kms on them with zero maintenance and I've never seen anything like what's been showing up here lately.
Is it perhaps that the oil life monitors are just that poorly calibrated or what's the story here? Would toyota's branded tgmo oil help in these motors or what can a person do to fix this?
Op. clean what you can manually and buy a few oil pan gaskets because you will be dropping the pan on this thing often to clean up the pick up screen. I'd use a solvent type product to soften and possibly dissolve chunks before they clog the pick up screen.
I'd buy a 5 gallon pail of cheap oil from wal-mart and a couple of gallons of kerosene. Do a few idle flushes,fill with oil. Drive a few hundred miles,drain. Kerosene again,repeat with an oil change. Go through that 5 gallon pail of oil doing kerosene flushes,drop the pan and scrape out what's left. Then PYB on short intervals until is runs acceptably.
We're service records available?
I've torn apart chev 350 engines that had 300000kms on them with zero maintenance and I've never seen anything like what's been showing up here lately.
Is it perhaps that the oil life monitors are just that poorly calibrated or what's the story here? Would toyota's branded tgmo oil help in these motors or what can a person do to fix this?
Op. clean what you can manually and buy a few oil pan gaskets because you will be dropping the pan on this thing often to clean up the pick up screen. I'd use a solvent type product to soften and possibly dissolve chunks before they clog the pick up screen.
I'd buy a 5 gallon pail of cheap oil from wal-mart and a couple of gallons of kerosene. Do a few idle flushes,fill with oil. Drive a few hundred miles,drain. Kerosene again,repeat with an oil change. Go through that 5 gallon pail of oil doing kerosene flushes,drop the pan and scrape out what's left. Then PYB on short intervals until is runs acceptably.
Its a recurring theme over the last decade. In summary its a combination of design and neglect. Will explain. Neglect any engine it will eventually die sooner or later one way or another. For GM's it may be mechanical malfunction, bearings, throw a rod, etc. For Toyota's its sludge. Toyotas engine design includes the use of lightweight aluminum for the block and head. While this helps lighten the car and increase economy, the aluminum used is not very efficient dissipating heat. Hot spots, moisture. Neglect the oil, dont change it, use the cheap stuff, you end up with old oil thats lost its add pack and fries on the engine surface while cool in other areas. Moisture + fried oil = sludge over thousands of neglected miles. The fix? Maintain the engine properly and stop procrastinating. If you hate maintaining cars use more expensive synthetic oil. Bad maintainers are generally cheapskates so they use the cheap stuff, then google for Toyota sludge and post blaming Toyota. "I changed my oil right on time and Toyota won't fix my car". Neither would I because your obviously lying, and your maintenance practices caught up with you. And being a cheapskate you want somebody else to fix your problem. "I bought a Toyota because they are supposed to be reliable, and they are not!!!". Uhh.. that doesn't mean you don't have to maintain it. That's my opinion on 90% of the complaints. Anyways to deal with this Toyota chose thin better flowing synthetics for 2011+. Makes sense. I agree, I'm using synthetics too.
In my experience Mobil 1 will clean a badly smudged engine. I got an 88 gmc 5liter that was badly smudged at 67k from overheating. I switched to m1 and was commuting 85miles /day using 4k oil changes. At 100k miles the sludge was deeply eroded like a miniature badlands. At 130k miles I had the rocker covers off again and the heads were clean as a whistle. By the way the guides were shot when I bought it and were still shot when I sold it at 220k miles.
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