Oil additive to clean out sludge and deposits

victorforge said:
I've been told since it's the lower displacement model it's not much of a problem. I always use 93 octane. I've been considering adding an additional octane booster or finding race fuel. I could also get a 100LL from the airport but I don't drive it enough to worry about it.
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I wouldnt use leaded gas in it. 100LL has over 2 grams per gallon. I wouldnt want to breathe that in.
 
Rand said:
I wouldnt use leaded gas in it. 100LL has over 2 grams per gallon. I wouldnt want to breathe that in.
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You can "cut" leaded gas with high-test unleaded and wind up with nearly the same benefits. Sometimes you can create something with even more octane than either ingredient!

You can also add Toluene, 122 octane IIRC.
 
dnewton3 said:
That thing is a time capsule! Simply beautiful piece of history.
Ride it and enjoy it!

As others have said, I'd stay away from group IV and V lubes. And avoid the harsh flush chemicals like seafoam, etc. What you want is slow, controlled, methodical cleaning to occur.

Consider HPL. They make some excellent engine cleaner; many here have had success with it, as it's ester based. Or, even maybe use their "normal" PCEO synthetic; it's a high-purity group III with esters and ANs. And as the BMW does not have an internal wet clutch to worry about, the whole "energy conserving oil" vs. clutch issue is moot.
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Just wanted to note. Adding seafoam would just be a few ounces. I wouldn't call it an aggressive flush.
 
victorforge said:
If a slow clean is preferred, would mixing say a quart of HPL with my usual conventional oil of choice be better?
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No.
Rather, I'd say use the HPL PCEO full strength, right out of the bottle, but then make sure to change the filter frequently. That way you know the rate at which it's going to load the filter.
- first filter change maybe at 500 miles; inspect media upon removal
- next one at 1000 miles; inspect media upon removal
- then X miles thereafter (depending on how loaded the first two looked)
As the engine cleans up, the filter changes can come further apart.
I'd run the OCI with HPL maybe 3k miles on the first run. Then 5k miles thereafter.
 
dnewton3 said:
No.
Rather, I'd say use the HPL PCEO full strength, right out of the bottle, but then make sure to change the filter frequently. That way you know the rate at which it's going to load the filter.
- first filter change maybe at 500 miles; inspect media upon removal
- next one at 1000 miles; inspect media upon removal
- then X miles thereafter (depending on how loaded the first two looked)
As the engine cleans up, the filter changes can come further apart.
I'd run the OCI with HPL maybe 3k miles on the first run. Then 5k miles thereafter.
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www.hploil.com

20W50 Synthetic Motor Oil Quart | hpl-lubricants

Superior anti-wear formula reduces damaging wear and increased engine life. Protection at startup and low oil temperatures. Film strength that maintains stability at high temperatures and with fuel dilution. Low friction coefficients reduce parasitic loss and increase performance. Increased...
www.hploil.com www.hploil.com
this stuff?
 
victorforge said:
www.hploil.com

20W50 Synthetic Motor Oil Quart | hpl-lubricants

Superior anti-wear formula reduces damaging wear and increased engine life. Protection at startup and low oil temperatures. Film strength that maintains stability at high temperatures and with fuel dilution. Low friction coefficients reduce parasitic loss and increase performance. Increased...
www.hploil.com www.hploil.com
this stuff?
Click to expand...
No wrong site, That is oil that HPL makes to someone else's ( Harry Hruska ) specs.

This is the site to choose your oil.

www.advlubrication.com

Advanced Lubrication, Inc.

Advanced Lubrication, Inc.
www.advlubrication.com
 
I'd bet most of those bikes ran on Castrol GTX 20w50 back then as 'specialty' oils were much less common. I'd run some of that HPL EC at the recommended percentage with something similar for a few short OCs and then go to whatever you plan on using thereafter. Those Beemer Boxers were my favorite bikes back then but I settled for a brand new 1977 XS650 Yamaha parallel twin for cost reasons (the Yamaha was $1999 IIRC)....it was also a nice bike but not a shaft drive as I would have liked.
 
pbm said:
I'd bet most of those bikes ran on Castrol GTX 20w50 back then as 'specialty' oils were much less common. I'd run some of that HPL EC at the recommended percentage with something similar for a few short OCs and then go to whatever you plan on using thereafter. Those Beemer Boxers were my favorite bikes back then but I settled for a brand new 1977 XS650 Yamaha parallel twin....it was a nice bike also but not shaft drive as I would have liked.
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My grandfather saved every service invoice. 99% of them were from a BMW dealership until that dealership closed shortly before he stopped riding it.
 
victorforge said:
My grandfather saved every service invoice. 99% of them were from a BMW dealership until that dealership closed shortly before he stopped riding it.
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I think that any name brand oil with the correct viscosity for the bike....I think I used 20w40 back then or 50.
 
hrv said:
I forgot how detailed the owners book was from BMW....It covers just about everything to repair and maintain your 74 r60/6
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With the original toolkit, you could fix just about anything. I typically run 20w50 in it. LiquiMoly 4t 20w50 to be specific.
 
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victorforge said:
Hello,
I have a '74 BMW R60/6 that's rather low mileage but sat for 20 years. After receiving it, I changed the oil and ran it some. I then sent the oil in for analysis at the next change and dropped the oil pan after I found sludge in a valve cover. I found more sludge in the other valve cover after another oil change. (It's a boxer engine so 2 opposing valve covers) After research I have found a few different options.
1. Use an engine flush
2. Use diesel oil (Ie Shell Rotella T6)
3. Add Rislone or Seafoam to oil before oil change
4. Use Valvoline Premium blue restore

I'm leaning towards option 2 and 3. I would basically switch to Shell Rotella T6 at the next oil change. Run it for 100 to 200 miles or so. Then add seafoam, run it for a few miles, then change it. I attached my last oil analysis. Older test is from the original oil sitting inside the engine from when I got it.
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Just going by my recent experience, depending upon how the oil passages are made, it might be a problem to use anything that cleans out too much crud too fast. I was working on a bike that had been sitting for a very long time, I thought I was doing something good by going to Mobil1 20w-50. I continued to think I was doing something good until the lifters collapsed because the oil supply to the top end was blocked by sludge. I know this because I took the motor apart and pushed the crud out of the passages out with a pipe cleaner after it had recently run fine for several thousand miles on Citgo 20w-50 V-Twin oil and Lucas 20w-50 V-Twin oil.

I'd give serious thought to several short intervals with Rotella and see how the oil looks coming out.
 
CCI said:
Just going by my recent experience, depending upon how the oil passages are made, it might be a problem to use anything that cleans out too much crud too fast. I was working on a bike that had been sitting for a very long time, I thought I was doing something good by going to Mobil1 20w-50. I continued to think I was doing something good until the lifters collapsed because the oil supply to the top end was blocked by sludge. I know this because I took the motor apart and pushed the crud out of the passages out with a pipe cleaner after it had recently run fine for several thousand miles on Citgo 20w-50 V-Twin oil and Lucas 20w-50 V-Twin oil.

I'd give serious thought to several short intervals with Rotella and see how the oil looks coming out.
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I'm thinking of just sticking with my typical oil and using this for a bit. https://www.advlubrication.com/collections/automotive-lubricants/products/engine-cleaner
Or I might just stick with more frequent oil changes for some time.
 
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