I recently acquired a nice 1987 IROC with 27k miles, all original. The valve stem seals are leaking which is normal for an older vehicle and I want to replace the heads, intake gaskets, rear main seal and valve cover gaskets. My question pertains to the bearings in the engine. Since we cannot see the bearings, what kind of processes happen to bearings in vehicles that have been sitting for years and years? Is there any special type of oil I should be looking into that will reverse any damage to the bearings if any? Sort of like a re conditioner? Thank you.
Modifying a vehicle that has a lot of age with low mileage.
- Thread starter TunedPortZ28
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ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
I would think they are fine. Was it actually sitting or did it get run from time to time? You have pictures of said vehicle?
Do want to put performance heads on it? I think, depending on what modifications, you will be fine. I can't remember if an IROC could be a 305 and 350 in that year. What does it have in it?
Do want to put performance heads on it? I think, depending on what modifications, you will be fine. I can't remember if an IROC could be a 305 and 350 in that year. What does it have in it?
Owning more than a few low mileage 'time warp' finds, I'd first ensure that the car is safe to drive (brakes, coolant, fresh oil) than put some miles on it before tearing into it too deeply. Your initial seat time will surely add some to-do's to the squawk list. Short of any previous damage, I wouldnt worry about the bearings being damaged from sitting and no oil or additive will repair bearings but some may temporarily lessen leaks.
This is a very nice 350 car. It has been meticulously maintained by a wealthy previous owner. I have no idea why he decided to get rid of it but I am glad he did. Yes, I have lot of pictures and videos of the new purchase. 
Its absolutely show room beautiful.
I have a climate controlled garage space that is secure where the car is going to be kept. I do not intend on driving it a lot, just here and there to the bigger shows and maybe a cars and coffee here and there. Plans are in the works to install Vortec small port heads that have been worked by Brzezenski Racing Products as well as a SDPC ported aluminum TPI intake base manifold with large tube runners and port matched plenum. Camshaft will be a Lingenfelter 219 or TPIS roller cam. I am not aiming to set the world on fire but instead make a very nice running reliable car that is a pleasure to drive. It will probably make around 385hp to the crank and still drive like a normal IROC.
Excuse the mess. I just put 17" wheels on it and a double din radio in it with Focal K2 components. The shifter knob was still off and center console not together when these were taken.
Its absolutely show room beautiful. I have a climate controlled garage space that is secure where the car is going to be kept. I do not intend on driving it a lot, just here and there to the bigger shows and maybe a cars and coffee here and there. Plans are in the works to install Vortec small port heads that have been worked by Brzezenski Racing Products as well as a SDPC ported aluminum TPI intake base manifold with large tube runners and port matched plenum. Camshaft will be a Lingenfelter 219 or TPIS roller cam. I am not aiming to set the world on fire but instead make a very nice running reliable car that is a pleasure to drive. It will probably make around 385hp to the crank and still drive like a normal IROC.
Excuse the mess. I just put 17" wheels on it and a double din radio in it with Focal K2 components. The shifter knob was still off and center console not together when these were taken.
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Yes, all drivability issues or concerns will be addressed before the engine is modified. I was thinking there may be some sort of conditioner that may change the ph levels in coolant and possibly neutralize any corrosion in the oil system. It has been driven here and there so its not a barn find thats been neglected for decades.
Engines can corrode internally when sitting for long periods, but if it was stored in an indoor, non-humid environment, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
When you replace the heads, rotate the engine to get a look at all the bores. The cylinders that were sitting with open intake or exhaust valves could have some corrosion. If it was driven once in a while, I wouldn't expect to find problems. If the oil pressure is normal, the bearings are probably okay.
When you replace the heads, rotate the engine to get a look at all the bores. The cylinders that were sitting with open intake or exhaust valves could have some corrosion. If it was driven once in a while, I wouldn't expect to find problems. If the oil pressure is normal, the bearings are probably okay.
Oil already contains anti-corrosion additives. I'd just change the oil and filter after a bit of running time. You might want to cut the filter open as well.
Exactly what I was planning. I hope everything turns out well considering last car that I purchased like this ended up needing a new engine due to bad cylinder bore scoring. It was horrible. I ended up putting a Blueprint crate engine in that car and driving it for a time.
I am a staunch believer in AC Delco filters and quality engine oil. I was a Valvoline man for many years but have since switched to Mobil 1 for the past decade. I am not sure if the detergents in a straight synthetic will wash out the dirt and cause leaks too prematurely on this car. I may do a blend at first.
I am a staunch believer in AC Delco filters and quality engine oil. I was a Valvoline man for many years but have since switched to Mobil 1 for the past decade. I am not sure if the detergents in a straight synthetic will wash out the dirt and cause leaks too prematurely on this car. I may do a blend at first.
If I’m not mistaken I think that is a one piece rear main seal. Have to pull the trans to replace. I would drive it first. May be fine.
You are correct.
...and no t-tops.
Oops just saw what you do for a living, I thought you were a fellow hacker. If the car sat for yrs at a time,moisture gets in the cylinders the bores get rusty, If you swap heads, take off the pan and pull a rod and a main cap. Check the bearing shell and journal for scratches and corrosion Copper is a bad sign If you have an engine stand..Go over every freaken hose, belt rubber ball joint cover and hard line. . One thing on old cars that can be trouble is where the hard lines are clipped to the chassis. They're dirt collectors. Dirt gets wet and causes rot over the decades.Just from sitting, everything is gonna be dry and brittle. Stuff crumbles just from trying to take it off. Every piece of hardware is gonna resist being separated from its mate. Anyway that is where I'd start, the brake hoses and stuff. Old cars with low miles do not make good daily drivers. That is my assessment after trying to do it for 50yrs. And if you're gonna modify it, start with the brakes and suspension, not the engine. Please update us with your progess
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Why are you wanting to replace the heads? I wouldn't worry about the bottom end.
I’m going to bore scope the cylinders first and turn the engine over to BDC for each cylinder for inspection. I have a multi camera angle Snap On bore scope. If all the cylinders look well I’ll go ahead with the HCI plans. If not I’ll have to change my plans.
I’d just put a quality HM 10W-30 in it, fresh gas, and drive it…it may revitalize the stem seals and it may be okay.
Why tear into it, and start a project that may never get finished, when you can enjoy it as is?
A lot of these ‘I’m just going to…’ projects turn into a car sitting apart for years and years…
Why tear into it, and start a project that may never get finished, when you can enjoy it as is?
A lot of these ‘I’m just going to…’ projects turn into a car sitting apart for years and years…
My cars get finished.
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Yes. T tops are great for some date nights.. they absolutely suck for everything else in Texas
You can’t reverse damage by using a magic oil. I put fresh Mobil 1 0w-40 into classics and my modern cars too. It’s as close to a one size fits all as there is.
If you are really concerned about bearing condition or damage then drop the pan and look at a main and rod bearing. That would take you a half day at most.
Z
If you are really concerned about bearing condition or damage then drop the pan and look at a main and rod bearing. That would take you a half day at most.
Z
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If it was mine I would do the valve seals and intake gaskets (this is likely to leak at some point as it's aluminum intake on cast iron heads) but I wouldn't bother with the heads. They're not prone to failing on these.
The 76 Olds 350 in my Cutlass was sitting for an unknown number of years before we freshened it up and installed it in 2006 130k miles ago. We replaced the timing set (nylon coated gears) and all other gaskets except head gaskets. Only problem I've had since then is the intake gaskets failed 12 years after and had to be replaced again.
The 76 Olds 350 in my Cutlass was sitting for an unknown number of years before we freshened it up and installed it in 2006 130k miles ago. We replaced the timing set (nylon coated gears) and all other gaskets except head gaskets. Only problem I've had since then is the intake gaskets failed 12 years after and had to be replaced again.
