So you can’t shift manually?
Slotted rotors or no?
- Thread starter cwilliamsws6
- Start date
Your money would be better spent on the highest boiling point brake fluid you can find combined with a much better pad such as the ebc red stuff pads.
I do have slotted rotors on my daily driver, an ‘02 Jaguar XKR, only because I got a very good deal on them. I can’t notice any difference in sound from them. But the ebc redstuff pads have made a substantial improvement in stopping performance vs. the OEM Jaguar pads, and they are wearing great. I’d recommend them to anyone needing better braking without wanting to upgrade the entire system.
Z
I do have slotted rotors on my daily driver, an ‘02 Jaguar XKR, only because I got a very good deal on them. I can’t notice any difference in sound from them. But the ebc redstuff pads have made a substantial improvement in stopping performance vs. the OEM Jaguar pads, and they are wearing great. I’d recommend them to anyone needing better braking without wanting to upgrade the entire system.
Z
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The drilled rotors like to crack around the holes. Both are disposable as no one wants to risk their tooling to turn either slotted or drilled rotors. IMO most rotors are trash when the pads are done. Due to hot spots typically from sitting after a panic stop without rolling some to evenly cool the rotors under the red hot pads. Too many pulsing pedal comebacks if they are not also replaced. Turning has the tool bounce off the higher and harder hot spot so IMO a waste of time.
On CAFE crippled vehicles like the 90's GM 1/2 tons with undersized brakes slotted/drilled makes a difference in pad life being longer. 12K standard rotors to 17K slotted/drilled per set. It will also "catch you by surprise" from "cold" brakes. Say you take a short freeway hop and are used to hot brake performance on the off ramp. Slotted/drilled you get the longer cold brake stopping distance.
The slotted rotors really shine, because every day isn't a sunny day, in the rain. The rear brakes get wet: the slotted rotors will dry off and work much faster.
The slotted are noisy when you are standing on the pedal.
My preference is a good pad Wagner/Raybestos over the "house brand" top of their line best lifetime warranty parts store garbage: The stopping performance, shorter distance with less pedal pressure, is better. Some other good stuff named above. Then I would run only the slotted rotors for wet performance as I don't like the cracking from drilled rotors. If I still had the undersized brakes GM 1/2 ton, yeah, I would still be running slotted/drilled and tossing rotors often.
On CAFE crippled vehicles like the 90's GM 1/2 tons with undersized brakes slotted/drilled makes a difference in pad life being longer. 12K standard rotors to 17K slotted/drilled per set. It will also "catch you by surprise" from "cold" brakes. Say you take a short freeway hop and are used to hot brake performance on the off ramp. Slotted/drilled you get the longer cold brake stopping distance.
The slotted rotors really shine, because every day isn't a sunny day, in the rain. The rear brakes get wet: the slotted rotors will dry off and work much faster.
The slotted are noisy when you are standing on the pedal.
My preference is a good pad Wagner/Raybestos over the "house brand" top of their line best lifetime warranty parts store garbage: The stopping performance, shorter distance with less pedal pressure, is better. Some other good stuff named above. Then I would run only the slotted rotors for wet performance as I don't like the cracking from drilled rotors. If I still had the undersized brakes GM 1/2 ton, yeah, I would still be running slotted/drilled and tossing rotors often.
JHZR2
Staff member
I’m not sure slotted would help in the OP case. If anything, it’s a net loss in thermal mass, which isn’t helpful.
Id get pads with a high friction factor at temperature, and replace the fluid.
Id get pads with a high friction factor at temperature, and replace the fluid.
Try them and if you don't notice a difference or don't like them, don't use them again. It's harmless to try.
As you can see, the majority opinion is to only use plain rotors. I am in a small minority that can tell the difference and will run drilled rotors only, but only those that I drill myself. I also run high-performance pads. I don't mind dust and noise to trade for far better braking.
As you can see, the majority opinion is to only use plain rotors. I am in a small minority that can tell the difference and will run drilled rotors only, but only those that I drill myself. I also run high-performance pads. I don't mind dust and noise to trade for far better braking.
I have used drilled and slotted rotors before, and I don't care for the vibrations. I would go with the general consensus here and use good fluid and pads. The only thing I would add is that braided steel brake lines can really firm up the pedal feel which is reassuring.
Drilled on a daily driver in the salt zone, not a good choice. Rust never sleeps.
interesting read on braking on Fuel Curve a "hot rod" site. its noted bt pros at EBC + Wilwood thar drilling + slotting makes little difference + better braking will come from better heat dissipation from rotors with more mass aka thicker + or larger diameter that increases leverage + brake pad material can help. so i guess a heavier quality rotor can help without big $$$$ of a change in size. not mentioned is the advantages of all pistons being ACTIVE!! i put a Wilwood front kit on my Audi TT, lighter 2 piece rotors + 4 functional pistons, it really works!! i an just a street driver but when needed the better brakes along with sticky tires stop WELL IMO. kit was about a thou a few years ago.
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