Powerstop Z36 drilled and slotted 15,000 mile / 1 year update (Sonata)

[1 SX]

2013 Sonata 2.4L. 67k mile currently. Its been about a year, and over 15K miles. I really don't have much to say about them. They work just as well now and they did on day 3, no vibrations, no rust, still look amazing behind the factory rims, and only used about 25% of the pads so far. At this rate the sonata will get about 60K total miles or over 4 years out of this setup. Price was about $478 total tax and shipping to door that included the 4 rotors all pads plus hardware from RA.. So for 60K miles of use and 4 years hopefully, my cost will be down to less then 9$ a month for the most premium brake offered for a sonata . I did also have the fluid flushed when I installed everything. Brake pedal is very responsive, and initial bite is immediate with well-controlled modulation.... ABS activation happens very quickly if you're not careful though. They might actually be "too" much brake for a Sonata. So it takes a little getting used to.

Also installed the same setup on the Forte a couple months ago. Again nothing but good things to say. They look the part, everything fit perfectly, bite is fantastic, and the kia is driven a little "differently" then the sonata, they have not wrapped or have any vibrations either... I did test them out down a steep grade at highway speeds for miles, and they never gave the slightest hint of fading or warping.

If I had different results, I would also let you guys know. I think the powerstop is the best bang for your buck brakes and do recommend them to almost everyone. How they would hold up at a track day event?, not sure, but they are decently well made rotors with carbon ceramic brake pads.

I know the drilled and slotted on a every day car driven on public roads you may never see the true benefits but it looks great , and there is more brake then I will ever need.

Just my thoughts this morning on Powerstop. Most members never update threads once they install parts, so we truly don't know how they held up to time and mileage. I like to update things, much later in time so we get a bigger picture then just day one results.

 

[BISCUT]

I found I could not differentiate them from EBC green with EBC slotted/drilled rotors. I've since moved to PowerStop as they are less $$$. Running them on 17 Subaru Outback and 15 F150. Sounds like we had a similar experience.

 

[1 SX]

I’m not gonna lie when I was young, just started driving 15 years ago I would pad slap every vehicle at the very most

And they were usually $22 AutoZone special pads, with rotors that were so warped and rusted that I should’ve never been using them but I did.

Looking back it makes me cringe that I would do something like that because I value safety and stoping ability now and is literally number one priority I do not go cheap on brakes anymore. While I was young and never had issues by using super cheap parts and reusing parts etc. I’m sure the brakes were never at optimum condition.

 

[Jetronic]

it all depends on the useage. for a grocery getter or commuter that follows speed limits and drives defensively all that's needed is working brakes. when you drive more agressive you want a bit more temerature range in the pads and definitely even brake force left to right so you don't get pulling.

 

[Wrenchturner44]

@ 1SX - Thanks for the update and pictures. I disagree with your statement; "I know the drilled and slotted on a every day car driven on public roads you may never see the true benefits but it looks great , and there is more brake then I will ever need."

IMHO this is a worthy upgrade. Anything that you can do to keep brakes from getting excessively hot will decrease the wear characteristics. The OEMs dont provide these purely due to cost. Also I like the idea that these are coated and reduce the corrosion aspect. I will most likely go with this setup when it is time for brakes.

 

[SevenBizzos]

Those are on my Sonata too. I think they perform pretty well. Really good value here and I like being able to stop quickly when I need to.

Most of my foot stomping is on the right pedal, but when I need the other, I'm confident they'll work.

 

[Stumpy]

My wife drives a 2009 Mazda CX-9. It is a heavy vehicle and is notorious for front brake issues such as warped rotors and longer stops. Drilled and slotted rotors are a must on this car and after several brake jobs I can tell you that drilled and slotted Powerstop rotors and Raybestos pads lasted much longer than solid rotors did. Brakes did better in the mountains as well.

 

[ls1mike]

Have them on the Trans Am and Caprice, both over 400HP to wheels. Not much difference in stopping for me, but what I have found is they wear very well and don't warp look some other brands, including A/C Delco did. I have been very happy with them for consistent, even braking and wear.

 

[sonata]

I also have these Z36 pads and rotors on my '04 Ram 2500, 200,000 highway km with 50% towing and lots of life left. Haven't measured them, but visually, they look like 60-70%. Never ran out of brake, even down a grade with a load.

Main thing I like is how they self clean. Road salt spray in the winter is brutal, and these handle it well.

Will be putting these on my sienna if the time comes.

 

[dan_erickson]

I have them on my Accord and it has saved me from warped rotors every summer

 

[benjy]

drilled + slotted are a waste $$$ on a street car says the Pros, BUT the actual iron-rotor is important as is quality of the iron varies. you loose a bit of braking surface + unlike smooth rotors are an EZE recut if needed IMO

 

[tickerguy]

I have Z23s on my Mazda and 1500-series Suburban. The primary "benefit" to Powerstop's matching rotors is that they are 100% coated and thus do not rust outside the contact area, even if the car is parked outside. Do you lose something in ultimate friction capability with the drilled/slotted config? Maybe, but the Z23s are so far ahead of factory when it comes to modulation, initial bite (cold or hot, no difference of materiality) and fade resistance that "more" isn't worth anything; I already have more brake than I can use, even with a trailer behind me on the truck.

Are the Z36s better? Maybe, but I don't know that for a street vehicle you can realistically improve on the Z23's performance, so....

 

[Nesterenko]

I have Z23s on my Mazda and 1500-series Suburban. The primary "benefit" to Powerstop's matching rotors is that they are 100% coated and thus do not rust outside the contact area, even if the car is parked outside. Do you lose something in ultimate friction capability with the drilled/slotted config? Maybe, but the Z23s are so far ahead of factory when it comes to modulation, initial bite (cold or hot, no difference of materiality) and fade resistance that "more" isn't worth anything; I already have more brake than I can use, even with a trailer behind me on the truck.

Are the Z36s better? Maybe, but I don't know that for a street vehicle you can realistically improve on the Z23's performance, so....

The 23's seem to bite nicely and wear well but I've got a pretty rough feeling pedal above 50 MPH. Front only, drums at the rear. Runout measurement is good, clean mounting surfaces too. I'm thinking that most shops can't turn drilled and slotted rotors. Bedding in was done carefully. Any thoughts?

 

[tickerguy]

Are these new? You cannot turn drilled and slotted rotors at all typically; they're "one and done" because the chamfer on the slots and holes can't be put back after they're turned.

Its possible you got a bad rotor set but if they're brand new drive it for a bit as it may be the anti-corrosion coating on the rotors that hasn't worn cleanly. I didn't have any sort of misbehavior with either of my installs and both now have plenty of miles on them. The other possibility is something's loose in the suspension up front and when braking at higher speeds you're unloading that and the steering geometry changes a bit. Check tie rod ends and ball points in particular, along with the possibility of a worn wheel bearing.

 

[1 SX]

Hey folks!
A update on the powerstop brake set up on the Kia..

I had a red flag when trying to retract the passenger side caliper piston as it gave me a lot of resistance, but then It got easy, so I went with it... a month later I am 20 miles away from home and it gets stuck on that passenger side front caliper. I drove it with it stuck on for the full 20 miles and then when I pulled in my driveway, there was literally smoke billowing out from the wheel.. I thought the car was gonna catch on fire.. Not wanting to replace this whole setup after only a month, I said to my self, im going to order two brand new genuine front calipers, bleed the system, & roll the dice and see if the that rotor is warped.. Initially, it was smooth but fast forward a month or two, and anything more than very very light braking and the car is vibrating.. So I said I'm gonna live with it... Fast forward another month and now the rear brakes are squeaking already.. I tried to bleed the rear calipers when I initially installed the powerstop brakes a few months ago, but the bleeder screws broke off, so I again said to myself since the pistons went is by hand, "go with it". Now it seems that they were also dragging slightly and wore out the pads... I was wondering where the brake fluid was going... I didn't have to add any, but the reservoir was full initially and now it's about half..

So what I am getting at, and a another lesson learned.. If it does not feel right... it probably isn't.. I have to now redo everything, again because I kept saying to myself "go with it".

These issues are NOT FAULT of powerstop, and went with them again.. because on the Sonata it is closing in on 30K with this powerstop setup and they have been absolutely perfect.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

The good news is that you can get OE new calipers from Rock Auto