OEM or Aftermarket Rotors

[Mr.GTRSpecV]

Hope you're all doing well during this pandemic and staying safe.

Time has come to change the rotors on my 370z and I've narrowed it down to two options. The first option is OEM rotors from Nissan, for all four rotors, the total comes to $640.84 CAD. The second option is the Raybestos R300 series rotors with the "s groove" slots, for all four rotors the total is $496 CAD. Yes, I do save some cash by going with the RB's but I'm not one to skimp out on $144 just to save some cash over performance.

The pads I will be using are the OEM stock Akebonos, they're amazing as they are and I do not track the car, though I do have some spirited driving sessions in the rural roads once in a while. I just wanted some input if anyone has had some experience with the Raybestos R300 line or Raybestos in general in regards to performance vehicles. As always, the help and input is always appreciated. Cheers.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Consider Powerstop coated rotors from Rock Auto

 

[Trav]

I was going to suggest looking at ABC brakes but their catalog will not load without flash which windows update has removed.
Go OE.

 

[The Critic]

Do you have the sport brakes (fixed piston front calipers) or one of the other options?

 

[Mr.GTRSpecV]

Consider Powerstop coated rotors from Rock Auto

From what I see, they have the drilled and slotted. Not looking for anything drilled, but I would not mind going slotted. I know blanks are good, I just want to try something different that's all.

I was going to suggest looking at ABC brakes but their catalog will not load without flash which windows update has removed.
Go OE.

EBC? I'll take a look at them, pricey but I know they are up there and worth it.

Do you have the sport brakes (fixed piston front calipers) or one of the other options?

I have the sport brakes.

 

[The Critic]

The fixed calipers are fairly sensitive to runout. We used to use Centric 125 high carbon rotors but that part number has been discontinued. There seem to be fewer noise issues when a high carbon rotor is used (I think the OE Akebono pads are a fairly aggressive compound). Now we just use the Akebono aftermarket rotors from Worldpac since the Centric option is gone.

You might want to consider having the rotors resurfaced using an on-car brake lathe.

 

[AutoMechanic]

If you are getting close to OEM pads I’d probably get OEM rotors. I like Raybestos but not sure how they would do on a performance car but I’ve used them in the past with no issues at all.

 

[Mr.GTRSpecV]

If you are getting close to OEM pads I’d probably get OEM rotors. I like Raybestos but not sure how they would do on a performance car but I’ve used them in the past with no issues at all.

That's the thing. I know they make good rotors for every day commuter cars, however for performance cars I'm not sure. I do not want buyers remorse haha.

I would go for the drilled and slotted powerstops, however I've seen the holes crack on some drilled rotors and I don't want that headache. Plus I've heard drilled rotors eat into pads and reduce their overall life expectancy.

 

[MParr]

OEM or equivalent.

 

[doitmyself]

Be aware that the factory supplied OEM Akebono pads might be entirely different than the aftermarket Akebono for the exact same application.

The ones on my Patriot are like this!

 

[Krieg]

OEM sir!

 

[Mr.GTRSpecV]

Thanks for the quick replies guys, I appreciate it. If anyone has any other inputs or suggestions I'm still open to them, cheers.

I wanted to know something as well. The pads are low on life, however, I do not have any shutter/jutter or vibrations through the wheel, does this mean the rotors are okay? I mean I have not changed the rotors in the past 60,000 km. I know most change the pads and rotors together but is their any con with not doing so?

 

[JimPghPA]

Averroes, I have a true story that you might want to keep in mind when choosing brakes. Many years ago, I was at an independent mechanics shop, and he had a customers sports car there and said the owner wanted some very high end race brakes put on his car on all 4 corners, and that customer brought the parts to him, and he had done the job and and the customer soon brought the car back to him saying that apparently these very high performance brakes are designed for use in conditions where they are very hot all the time from often being used hard, like racing on a track. And when used in normal street driving they are not hot enough for the braking action to be good enough to be safe. In fact they were soooooo bad that the customer brought the car back and told him to remove them and put standard brakes on it. And according to the mechanic those high performance brakes parts cost the customer a lot.

So while there are some upgrades that are OK to put on daily drivers, and there may be some room for improvement over stock for an every day driver, also there are some high end brake packages that are so high end that they only belong on the track where they run much hotter and some of those very high end set-ups are not worth a darn when used at the lower temperatures an every day street driver sees.

So if you upgrade, be sure you do not get into that extreme end of it unless you plan to only use it on a track.

I do not remember any details of the names of the brakes or even the name of the sports car, or weather the rotors were carbon-fiber or metal. But I do remember the mechanic point out that the customer and spent a lot of money on the so called high grade brake package and installation. And it was totally useless on the street, and now he had to spend more to get it back closer to stock.

 

[GSCJR]

Replace with original Nissan pads and rotors together. The most expensive option is often the least expensive option, if you know what I mean.

 

[The Critic]

I wanted to know something as well. The pads are low on life, however, I do not have any shutter/jutter or vibrations through the wheel, does this mean the rotors are okay? I mean I have not changed the rotors in the past 60,000 km. I know most change the pads and rotors together but is their any con with not doing so?

While rare, yes, it means the rotors are suitable for reuse as long as the thickness is within spec.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Thanks for the quick replies guys, I appreciate it. If anyone has any other inputs or suggestions I'm still open to them, cheers.

I wanted to know something as well. The pads are low on life, however, I do not have any shutter/jutter or vibrations through the wheel, does this mean the rotors are okay? I mean I have not changed the rotors in the past 60,000 km. I know most change the pads and rotors together but is their any con with not doing so?

In Canada, rust is so bad you should replace the rotors every time.

 

[MParr]

If your rotors are in good shape with no surface pitting or gouges and the thickness is within specifications. Don’t try to cheap out if they are close to being out of specifications. Stay close to OEM parts specifications.

 

[Mr.GTRSpecV]

Averroes, I have a true story that you might want to keep in mind when choosing brakes. Many years ago, I was at an independent mechanics shop, and he had a customers sports car there and said the owner wanted some very high end race brakes put on his car on all 4 corners, and that customer brought the parts to him, and he had done the job and and the customer soon brought the car back to him saying that apparently these very high performance brakes are designed for use in conditions where they are very hot all the time from often being used hard, like racing on a track. And when used in normal street driving they are not hot enough for the braking action to be good enough to be safe. In fact they were soooooo bad that the customer brought the car back and told him to remove them and put standard brakes on it. And according to the mechanic those high performance brakes parts cost the customer a lot.

So while there are some upgrades that are OK to put on daily drivers, and there may be some room for improvement over stock for an every day driver, also there are some high end brake packages that are so high end that they only belong on the track where they run much hotter and some of those very high end set-ups are not worth a darn when used at the lower temperatures an every day street driver sees.

So if you upgrade, be sure you do not get into that extreme end of it unless you plan to only use it on a track.

I do not remember any details of the names of the brakes or even the name of the sports car, or weather the rotors were carbon-fiber or metal. But I do remember the mechanic point out that the customer and spent a lot of money on the so called high grade brake package and installation. And it was totally useless on the street, and now he had to spend more to get it back closer to stock.

Thanks for sharing this. Definitely have to keep the type of application in mind when it comes to certain things.

In Canada, rust is so bad you should replace the rotors every time.

Trust me, it gets bad. Luckily my Z is a summer car only and is put away by the end of October or mid Nov latest. She's not allowed to play in the snow or salt.

Replace with original Nissan pads and rotors together. The most expensive option is often the least expensive option, if you know what I mean.

I hear ya loud and clear. Pay now or pay later type of scenario.

 

[wings&wheels]

I would go with OE. You know what you are getting, assuming you were happy with your brakes.

Just went through this decision for our 996 and after talking to the indy we use (he is very helpful when I do my own work), I went OE. His thoughts were that aftermarket is somewhat of a crapshoot and the top quality ones are probably ok, but why risk it for short $'s.

 

[Greasymechtech]

I don't recommend slotted, drilled, or both, on rotors with stock pads.

My recommendation for stock pads is the solid blanks, unless the OE rotors were slotted/drilled/... from the factory.

I also don't use OE pads. For a mild upgrade, consider the Akebono ASP pads and solid blanks, like the Raybestos street performance rotors.