Slotted rotors or no?

[cwilliamsws6]

My 2014 Pathfinder needs pads and rotors in all four corners soon. I recently moved from Columbus, Ohio to Lewiston, Idaho which is a huge change in terrain and driving conditions.

The road I take to work every day is an 11% grade and the road in and out of town is such a steep grade that there's no fine for using a runaway truck ramp.

Would it be worth the extra cash to spring for slotted rotors to help with some heat dissipation? I've always used Centric GCX coated rotors and cheap-ish pads back when I lived in Ohio but I'm not sure they'd last too long out this direction.

 

[Jake_J]

If slotted rotors were actually better on a regular car or truck for normal use they would come with them from the factory. The benefits are slim and are only really worthwhile in a racing application. Slotted rotors also have the downside of wearing pads faster, are more likely to have noise problems, and the reduced rotor surface area certainly doesn't help with braking power.

 

[skyactiv]

I bet crappy old S10's squeak by with there dismal brakes on the same roads you drive on.

 

[RDY4WAR]

I went to slotted rotors on my Tahoe for 2 reasons. First one was because I tow a 6,000 lb load with it pretty regularly. The second reason is the slotted rotors were actually cheaper than the OEM ACDelco replacements. I also stepped up to Hawk pads. Before, I could feel the brakes fade a bit while riding them down a steep grade with the trailer in tow, and it made me nervous. With the slotted rotors and Hawk pads, solid pedal feel the whole way down.

 

[BISCUT]

I've found quality of slotted/non-slotted to be more important than slot or no slot. Same vain, I like to keep within the same pad/rotor manufacturer combo if going for the slotted (or drilled).

I have PowerStop kit on my 2015 F150. My next set will be this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CFL5DLM/?tag=powsto07-20

I have PowerStop on the F150 rear and EBC up front. I have PwerStop on my 17 Subaru and for me, PowerStop is less expensive, lasts longer, and I cannot feel any difference in braking between them. I live in a very hilly area. Lots of back roads, snow, ice, rain, etc...

 

[RyanY]

I vote no for the slotted rotors. I put them on my van after two sets of OEM rotors shimmied, but will replace with non-slotted Raybestos Element 3 when the time comes. The slotted rotors perform okay and last much longer than OEM but are somewhat noisy, and the vibration can be felt in the steering wheel. I prefer smooth braking.

 

[MParr]

They’re a gimmick.

 

[edyvw]

Forget rotors, mountain braking is all about brake fluid.
Make sure you flush brake fluid every 2 years.
I track my BMW with regular rotors (track pads though) but I flush fluid 2-3 times a year.
If you want improvement in braking go different pads like EBC, Hawk etc.

 

[qjohn]

I would also recommend non-slotted rotors.

If there is a problem with brake pads fading due to high temperature, then consider:
* Change to a brake pad with higher temperature rating. A track oriented pad may help.
* Bigger rotor (big brake kit) to increase heat dissipation.
* Add airflow (brake ducts) to increase heat dissipation.
* Reduce heat put into the brakes -- lighten the load, more engine-braking less brake-braking.

How long is the 11% grade? Does the speed just keep increasing on the way down even with engine braking, or is there a sharp turn that requires lots of braking?

 

[tblt44]

NO
Just get regular rotors

 

[atikovi]

I put drilled rotors on a Saturn Vue, but that's just for looks.

If you're looking greater fade resistance and braking power, you need a big brake kit with larger rotors. Slots on the original size rotor will decrease brake pad contact area and reduce braking power.

 

[edyvw]

I would also recommend non-slotted rotors.

If there is a problem with brake pads fading due to high temperature, then consider:
* Change to a brake pad with higher temperature rating. A track oriented pad may help.
* Bigger rotor (big brake kit) to increase heat dissipation.
* Add airflow (brake ducts) to increase heat dissipation.
* Reduce heat put into the brakes -- lighten the load, more engine-braking less brake-braking.

How long is the 11% grade? Does the speed just keep increasing on the way down even with engine braking, or is there a sharp turn that requires lots of braking?

He will be fine with any good pads as long as brake fluid is ok.
Track pads are not best option in cold climate until they reach at least 100-150f. I would stick to regular or mildly upgraded like EBC Greenstuff or RedStuff, Hawk HP etc.

 

[qjohn]

He will be fine with any good pads as long as brake fluid is ok.
Track pads are not best option in cold climate until they reach at least 100-150f. I would stick to regular or mildly upgraded like EBC Greenstuff or RedStuff, Hawk HP etc.

Agreed. I should have suggested performance street pads like Hawk HP, or HP+ at most aggressive.

 

[edyvw]

Also OP, how is that Pathfinder with engine braking? Downshifting?

 

[cwilliamsws6]

Also OP, how is that Pathfinder with engine braking? Downshifting?

With the CVT I'm not quite sure what it's doing as I go down the grade. Usually once I get to the speed limit I can coast the entire way to the bottom and not gain speed. Occasionally braking but I hardly have to touch the throttle.

 

[edyvw]

With the CVT I'm not quite sure what it's doing as I go down the grade. Usually once I get to the speed limit I can coast the entire way to the bottom and not gain speed. Occasionally braking but I hardly have to touch the throttle.

Can that CVT mimic gears? Like downshifting?
But honestly, flush brake fluid at first opportunity and do it every 2-3yrs. If you are concerned with fade, go DOT4 brake fluid like ATE TYP200. I use that on track and in all my other vehicles. Very high boiling point.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

I put the EBC dimpled/slotted rotor and pad kit on my F150. Top of the line without going to bigger brakes. All I noticed was a very slight noise. Not sure of any improvement over blank rotors and quality pads.

 

[cwilliamsws6]

Can that CVT mimic gears? Like downshifting?
But honestly, flush brake fluid at first opportunity and do it every 2-3yrs. If you are concerned with fade, go DOT4 brake fluid like ATE TYP200. I use that on track and in all my other vehicles. Very high boiling point.

I'm not really sure how to explain it. If I'm coasting down the grade without applying brake or throttle it sits around 2,500 RPM but if I hit the brake the RPMs will go up to 3K plus. I don't believe it mimics gears, or if it does I certainly cannot feel it.

 

[tom in boise]

Here is a link to some technical information regarding slotted and drilled rotors, from Powerstop.

https://www.powerstop.com/drilled-vs-slotted-rotors-what-is-better/

I recently installed a Powerstop set of rotors and pads on our Ford Transit van and am very happy with the improvement in stopping power over the original equipment pads and rotors. I am familiar with the hill you are driving every day. I personally would investigate a Powerstop or similar provider, to see what is available. I wouldn't let slots or the lack thereof sway my decision. I might look for drilled rotors for better cooling.

 

[edyvw]

Here is a link to some technical information regarding slotted and drilled rotors, from Powerstop.

https://www.powerstop.com/drilled-vs-slotted-rotors-what-is-better/

I recently installed a Powerstop set of rotors and pads on our Ford Transit van and am very happy with the improvement in stopping power over the original equipment pads and rotors. I am familiar with the hill you are driving every day. I personally would investigate a Powerstop or similar provider, to see what is available. I wouldn't let slots or the lack thereof sway my decision. I might look for drilled rotors for better cooling.

Rotors are not issue in these situations. Pads are first to fade, then brake fluid. If rotors overheat to the point that they influence performance, you are not driving downhill, you are at Nurburgring. You have to have basically racing pads in order for rotor to become failure point.
Drilled rotors are IMO good only coming as OE. I personally would never run them on track.