Hi everyone. I need a opinion or advice. i start using 10w 30 for long time now synth oil. Last oil change I switch to schaeffers 7000 semi-synth 10w 30 and probably I will stay with schaeffers oil. Shoul'd I switch to there's full synth oil 5w 30 9000 series? I have honda civic 2000 lx with 237k write now. Someone told me to start using 10w 40 or 5w 40 at this mileage, but I don't now should I switch to more thick oil. Motor doesn't have any mech problems or any noise write now. I been taking care the time that I buy in 2006. All regular maint, etc...at 220k I did a head job. It was heating and watet went thru one cylinder so I did the head job with mechanic. Also he adjust the valves too.i do every 30k a mtf change. It's a 5 speed. Every advice is welcome....
should I switch from 10w 30 to 5w 30?
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Well, living in L.A. you could easily stay with 10W30. I wouldn't move to the 40 weights if you don't have any oil loss now. Stay with what is working for you!
Synthetic oils tend to be thinner than dino at the same weight. Add the miles you have, I would not go thinner, may increase oil consumption. The website description only mentions diesel for the 9000 5w-40, but other sites call it "motor oil". That one would be close to what you have now if you can use it. Send them email
I agree with Char Baby. 10w30. Why change what has been working so well? Now if you're burning an excessive amount then a heaver oil may be worth considering.
Take some 10W-30 and put it in a glass jar and observe it at different temperatures. At room temperature, about 75 degrees Fahrenheit, it looks plenty thin to me. In the freezer, it's quite a bit thicker, but it still moves fairly well. I can't see using 5w30 unless I'm driving around in freezing cold weather all the time. I worry about the oil being thick enough at operating temperature to provide lubrication. You get an oil too thin, it's not going to lubricate no more.
I would stay with what you have been using... That engine has another 200K in it. Good luck.
Stick with what you've been using. If it an't broke, don't fix it! lol
I'd just stick with the 10W-30. It is good down to about 4 degrees Farenheit for cold starts. Unless you are going to be in Flagstaff, AZ or Ely, NV this winter, you will just not need the thinner oil. Even in Big Bear this winter 10W-30 should usually work out just fine.
Yes definately switch to 5w30 for your Honda Civic.
10W-30 is largely an obsolete grade particularly with the better synthetic formulations.
Honda spec's 20wt oil for most of it's cars now.
Under no circumstances would you ever need to use a 40wt oil.
10W-30 is largely an obsolete grade particularly with the better synthetic formulations.
Honda spec's 20wt oil for most of it's cars now.
Under no circumstances would you ever need to use a 40wt oil.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Take some 10W-30 and put it in a glass jar and observe it at different temperatures. At room temperature, about 75 degrees Fahrenheit, it looks plenty thin to me. In the freezer, it's quite a bit thicker, but it still moves fairly well. I can't see using 5w30 unless I'm driving around in freezing cold weather all the time. I worry about the oil being thick enough at operating temperature to provide lubrication. You get an oil too thin, it's not going to lubricate no more.
what on earth are you talking about? at room temperature, a 10W30 is still way to thick for your engine. Here's another suggestion: heat a 20W50 up to 100C and then pour it out. Then compare it to 0W20 at room temperature. Room temperature oil is always 'too thick', regardless of grade.
Many 5W30s are thicker than their 10W30 counterparts at operating temperatures, including the oil he's considering: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/701%2C703%2C704%20TD.pdf So, I don't understand the worry about the oil 'being too thin'?
I can't see any possible logical reason to use the 10W30 over 5W30 in this instance. The 10W30 just looks like a cheaper lube.
Take some 10W-30 and put it in a glass jar and observe it at different temperatures. At room temperature, about 75 degrees Fahrenheit, it looks plenty thin to me. In the freezer, it's quite a bit thicker, but it still moves fairly well. I can't see using 5w30 unless I'm driving around in freezing cold weather all the time. I worry about the oil being thick enough at operating temperature to provide lubrication. You get an oil too thin, it's not going to lubricate no more.
what on earth are you talking about? at room temperature, a 10W30 is still way to thick for your engine. Here's another suggestion: heat a 20W50 up to 100C and then pour it out. Then compare it to 0W20 at room temperature. Room temperature oil is always 'too thick', regardless of grade.
Many 5W30s are thicker than their 10W30 counterparts at operating temperatures, including the oil he's considering: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/701%2C703%2C704%20TD.pdf So, I don't understand the worry about the oil 'being too thin'?
I can't see any possible logical reason to use the 10W30 over 5W30 in this instance. The 10W30 just looks like a cheaper lube.
Max -
5-30 should be great.
5-30 should be great.
I run 5-30 dino in my truck. We have had some insane heat this summer and my dino 5-30 is holding it's own just fine with no consumption. Only reason I'm on 5-30 is that is what the manual calls for.
The performance difference in your appln would be miniscule. Why change? If it ain't broke, why fix it?
Originally Posted By: JOD
what on earth are you talking about? at room temperature, a 10W30 is still way to thick for your engine. Here's another suggestion: heat a 20W50 up to 100C and then pour it out. Then compare it to 0W20 at room temperature. Room temperature oil is always 'too thick', regardless of grade.
Many 5W30s are thicker than their 10W30 counterparts at operating temperatures, including the oil he's considering: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/701%2C703%2C704%20TD.pdf So, I don't understand the worry about the oil 'being too thin'?
I can't see any possible logical reason to use the 10W30 over 5W30 in this instance. The 10W30 just looks like a cheaper lube.
Have you taken the time to actually see 10W-30 at room temperature? It's sloshing around very easily -
almost as easy as water. I'm thinking you guys need to quit looking at the charts so much and instead, look at the
oil as it behaves in a glass jar. I've even had 10W-40 in a glass jar out in the hot garage at 104 Fahrenheit - that
oil (at that temperature) moves very easily.
what on earth are you talking about? at room temperature, a 10W30 is still way to thick for your engine. Here's another suggestion: heat a 20W50 up to 100C and then pour it out. Then compare it to 0W20 at room temperature. Room temperature oil is always 'too thick', regardless of grade.
Many 5W30s are thicker than their 10W30 counterparts at operating temperatures, including the oil he's considering: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/701%2C703%2C704%20TD.pdf So, I don't understand the worry about the oil 'being too thin'?
I can't see any possible logical reason to use the 10W30 over 5W30 in this instance. The 10W30 just looks like a cheaper lube.
Have you taken the time to actually see 10W-30 at room temperature? It's sloshing around very easily -
almost as easy as water. I'm thinking you guys need to quit looking at the charts so much and instead, look at the
oil as it behaves in a glass jar. I've even had 10W-40 in a glass jar out in the hot garage at 104 Fahrenheit - that
oil (at that temperature) moves very easily.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: JOD
what on earth are you talking about? at room temperature, a 10W30 is still way to thick for your engine. Here's another suggestion: heat a 20W50 up to 100C and then pour it out. Then compare it to 0W20 at room temperature. Room temperature oil is always 'too thick', regardless of grade.
Many 5W30s are thicker than their 10W30 counterparts at operating temperatures, including the oil he's considering: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/701%2C703%2C704%20TD.pdf So, I don't understand the worry about the oil 'being too thin'?
I can't see any possible logical reason to use the 10W30 over 5W30 in this instance. The 10W30 just looks like a cheaper lube.
Have you taken the time to actually see 10W-30 at room temperature? It's sloshing around very easily -
almost as easy as water. I'm thinking you guys need to quit looking at the charts so much and instead, look at the
oil as it behaves in a glass jar. I've even had 10W-40 in a glass jar out in the hot garage at 104 Fahrenheit - that
oil (at that temperature) moves very easily.
Apparently YOU didn't read through the "Motor Oil University" (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/), linked on the homepage of this site. A glass jar of oil is meaningless as most engine wear comes at start up. The main advantage of synthetic is to reduce start up damage. Also, from the "Motor Oil University" series, NO oil is THIN enough at a cold start.
To the OP - either stay with what you have been using, or switch to 0w-30, provided it's not too much more expensive.
Originally Posted By: JOD
what on earth are you talking about? at room temperature, a 10W30 is still way to thick for your engine. Here's another suggestion: heat a 20W50 up to 100C and then pour it out. Then compare it to 0W20 at room temperature. Room temperature oil is always 'too thick', regardless of grade.
Many 5W30s are thicker than their 10W30 counterparts at operating temperatures, including the oil he's considering: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/701%2C703%2C704%20TD.pdf So, I don't understand the worry about the oil 'being too thin'?
I can't see any possible logical reason to use the 10W30 over 5W30 in this instance. The 10W30 just looks like a cheaper lube.
Have you taken the time to actually see 10W-30 at room temperature? It's sloshing around very easily -
almost as easy as water. I'm thinking you guys need to quit looking at the charts so much and instead, look at the
oil as it behaves in a glass jar. I've even had 10W-40 in a glass jar out in the hot garage at 104 Fahrenheit - that
oil (at that temperature) moves very easily.
Apparently YOU didn't read through the "Motor Oil University" (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/), linked on the homepage of this site. A glass jar of oil is meaningless as most engine wear comes at start up. The main advantage of synthetic is to reduce start up damage. Also, from the "Motor Oil University" series, NO oil is THIN enough at a cold start.
To the OP - either stay with what you have been using, or switch to 0w-30, provided it's not too much more expensive.
Originally Posted By: unixdude
Apparently YOU didn't read through the "Motor Oil University" (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/), linked on the homepage of this site. A glass jar of oil is meaningless as most engine wear comes at start up. The main advantage of synthetic is to reduce start up damage. Also, from the "Motor Oil University" series, NO oil is THIN enough at a cold start.
That depends on the temperature the oil is at during engine start up. 10W-30 on a hot summer day isn't going to cause much wear - if any. That oil is plenty fluid at 100F to get to the bearings quickly. Even 10W-40 at 100F will get moving very fast as soon as the oil pump starts turning - which is as soon as you turn the key. When the temperatures drop to around 40F is when you'll start getting some start up wear. But if the oil has coated the engine with a strong protective film, even at cold temps the wear will be minimal.
Apparently YOU didn't read through the "Motor Oil University" (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/), linked on the homepage of this site. A glass jar of oil is meaningless as most engine wear comes at start up. The main advantage of synthetic is to reduce start up damage. Also, from the "Motor Oil University" series, NO oil is THIN enough at a cold start.
That depends on the temperature the oil is at during engine start up. 10W-30 on a hot summer day isn't going to cause much wear - if any. That oil is plenty fluid at 100F to get to the bearings quickly. Even 10W-40 at 100F will get moving very fast as soon as the oil pump starts turning - which is as soon as you turn the key. When the temperatures drop to around 40F is when you'll start getting some start up wear. But if the oil has coated the engine with a strong protective film, even at cold temps the wear will be minimal.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: unixdude
Apparently YOU didn't read through the "Motor Oil University" (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/), linked on the homepage of this site. A glass jar of oil is meaningless as most engine wear comes at start up. The main advantage of synthetic is to reduce start up damage. Also, from the "Motor Oil University" series, NO oil is THIN enough at a cold start.
That depends on the temperature the oil is at during engine start up. 10W-30 on a hot summer day isn't going to cause much wear - if any. That oil is plenty fluid at 100F to get to the bearings quickly. Even 10W-40 at 100F will get moving very fast as soon as the oil pump starts turning - which is as soon as you turn the key. When the temperatures drop to around 40F is when you'll start getting some start up wear. But if the oil has coated the engine with a strong protective film, even at cold temps the wear will be minimal.
Read the articles quoted above ; then tell me if you still have the same opinion. There is a lot of detail, with out being over technical, in those articles - which disagrees with your comments.
Originally Posted By: unixdude
Apparently YOU didn't read through the "Motor Oil University" (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/), linked on the homepage of this site. A glass jar of oil is meaningless as most engine wear comes at start up. The main advantage of synthetic is to reduce start up damage. Also, from the "Motor Oil University" series, NO oil is THIN enough at a cold start.
That depends on the temperature the oil is at during engine start up. 10W-30 on a hot summer day isn't going to cause much wear - if any. That oil is plenty fluid at 100F to get to the bearings quickly. Even 10W-40 at 100F will get moving very fast as soon as the oil pump starts turning - which is as soon as you turn the key. When the temperatures drop to around 40F is when you'll start getting some start up wear. But if the oil has coated the engine with a strong protective film, even at cold temps the wear will be minimal.
Read the articles quoted above ; then tell me if you still have the same opinion. There is a lot of detail, with out being over technical, in those articles - which disagrees with your comments.
Originally Posted By: DR Racing
If running dino run 10w-30.
If running synthetic run 5w30 or even 0w-30.
Dan
Blend half 5w30 with half 5W-20 of the same grade and type of Oil. This is a feel-good move.
You could likely use 100% 5w30 or 100% 5W-20. For a Honda Civic, i would use 100% 5w30. Or, as of my recent experimentation, 50% 5w30 and 50% 5W-20, same grade and type of oil.
PYB, VWB, Nextgen, shoot even QS. Even Supertech. Take your pick!
I know from expereince that Supertech dino tends to be thinner than other oils, so with that car maybe 100% 5w30 ST. If not, the 50/50 blend Nextgen. Thats nice conventional oil, not going to synthetic, which i also like to keep it a "syn blend" at best, just because. (It may be a non-issue but some cars still are stubborn with synth oil that way. Own ten cars then watch 2 or 3 of them leak after syn, the other 7 probably wont as many as 5 or 6 cars may leak as few as 1 car may leak but diff cars, diff oil, its that simple.)
If running dino run 10w-30.
If running synthetic run 5w30 or even 0w-30.
Dan
Blend half 5w30 with half 5W-20 of the same grade and type of Oil. This is a feel-good move.
You could likely use 100% 5w30 or 100% 5W-20. For a Honda Civic, i would use 100% 5w30. Or, as of my recent experimentation, 50% 5w30 and 50% 5W-20, same grade and type of oil.
PYB, VWB, Nextgen, shoot even QS. Even Supertech. Take your pick!
I know from expereince that Supertech dino tends to be thinner than other oils, so with that car maybe 100% 5w30 ST. If not, the 50/50 blend Nextgen. Thats nice conventional oil, not going to synthetic, which i also like to keep it a "syn blend" at best, just because. (It may be a non-issue but some cars still are stubborn with synth oil that way. Own ten cars then watch 2 or 3 of them leak after syn, the other 7 probably wont as many as 5 or 6 cars may leak as few as 1 car may leak but diff cars, diff oil, its that simple.)
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