shell ultra 5w40 vs motul 8100 oil control rings

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Originally Posted By: userfriendly
How come ultrafanUK posts about engine flushes 100x a month?

I noticed that "obsession" too. Personally wouldn't recommend any "flush" business whatsoever. Let the oil take care of the gunk, failing that, get the engine rebuilt.
 
Originally Posted By: chrisri

It was a genuine question, I haven't starting anything. Really can't remember those back then in my local (northern Adriatic-Croatia,Italy). Maybe up north in colder climates?
I can tell you, if they were available they must have been mega expensive for sure. Even today OEMs requires 5w30/40 (Euro makes).
Cheers.


All good mate. I saw it as a genuine and reasonable question. It's hard to remember the state of play of oil in the 90's.

You actually did me a favour. I typed in the specs directly from an old empty bottle of TXT that I have in my old empty oil bottle collection. My wife thinks an old empty oil bottle collection is crazy (she is probably correct), so the look on her face when she saw me at the breakfast table transcribing the old Euro oil specs onto the computer, because somebody asked, was pure gold.

It was almost as good as the look she gave me when, deciding to throw a few old bottles out, I meticulously photographed the bottles and labels for future reference, before disposal.
 
Originally Posted By: SonofJoe
In another thread, you recently posted up a table of oil flow rates at two different rpm's for four different viscosity grades. Although the differences were small, the thickest oil gave the lowest flow. I've always assumed that a typical oil gear pump would push through a constant volume of oil for a given engine speed regardless of it's viscosity but your table said different. Any thoughts on why the differences in flow exist? Oil's not compressible so that can't be it. It could be that thick oil leaks more from the main bearings but I would have thought the flowrate would be measured directly after the pump so that's unlikely. I know some badly designed oil pumps can leak as the back plate flexes so that might be it. Or it might be something to do with the oil swelling in volume as it traverses the main bearing and increases in temperature.

Any thoughts?

Not knowing which thread of Shannow's you are refering to , a typical gear pump is designed to allow some minimal internal leakage for gear pump bearing lubrication with end plate clearance of half a thousandths to a thou.
Besides, this internal leakage also corelates with differential pressure between pump discharge pressure and pump inlet pressure. Hence gear pump volumetric efficiency is never at 100%.
http://www.liquiflo.com/v2/files/pdf/Gear_Pump_Basics.pdf . Hope this helps.
Just my 2 cents.
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Zeng,

I get the whole thing about slippage and the thing about flow vs differential pressure. The thing I don't quite get are in Figure 2, what do the numbers which range from 600 to 1450 represent? Is it the speed of rotation of the gears?

Also, just as a comment, this representation of gear pump operation seems to run counter to the numbers in Shannon's table. This says that low viscosity fluids 'slip back' more than viscous ones. Also it tends to suggest that with viscous fluids tend not to be effected so much by the differential pressure across the pump. Strange...
 
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Originally Posted By: SonofJoe
On a serious note, can I ask you a question? In another thread, you recently posted up a table of oil flow rates at two different rpm's for four different viscosity grades. Although the differences were small, the thickest oil gave the lowest flow. I've always assumed that a typical oil gear pump would push through a constant volume of oil for a given engine speed regardless of it's viscosity but your table said different. Any thoughts on why the differences in flow exist? Oil's not compressible so that can't be it. It could be that thick oil leaks more from the main bearings but I would have thought the flowrate would be measured directly after the pump so that's unlikely. I know some badly designed oil pumps can leak as the back plate flexes so that might be it. Or it might be something to do with the oil swelling in volume as it traverses the main bearing and increases in temperature.

Any thoughts?


LOL, wonder if I'll be stalked in this one as well.

Design of lubrication systems is that due to the bearing's rotation and the fact that hydrodynamic bearings go from a wide gap to a narrow gap, which provides the hydrodynamic "lift" that keeps the parts separated...this narrowing increases the local pressure, and oil can flow in the directions of rotation through the bearing circumference, OR out the side...this is called "side leakage"...the part that goes around does another circuit, the side leakage is lost to the sump, and has to be replenished.

The role of the oil delivery system is to replace that which is lost to side leakage.

When the pump supplies more pressure than the side leakage, "backpressure" is generated and you get oil pressure as an artifact.

Now, for when my stalker gets here...of course, this increase in pressure then forces MORE oil out the unloaded side of the bearing than the normal side leakage would otherwise be...you can use that to oversupply oil to bearings to control temperatures when the natural flow isn't enough to control temperatures.

That's not the normal case in engines, as you design things around their natural point.

So in the paper I pulled the bits out of, they used the "short bearing" approximation to calculate the "natural" side leakage from the bearings, and don't include the pressure aspect...it's how it's typically done.

Now things that reduce the side leakage are:
* Increasing the RPM (shifts the ratio of side leakage to circulation around the bearing by increasing the MOFT, and thus the change in pressure that the oil experiences pushing it out the side)
* Reducing the bearing projected load (does exactly the same as the above)
* Increasing Viscosity, which again increases the MOFT, reduces the delta P, and also increases the resistance for it to flow axially along the bearing.
* Increasing the bearing length
* reducing the bearing clearances.

So in the case of the normal side leakage used in the paper, changing the viscosity reduced the side leakage through the above mechanisms, requiring a lesser make-up flow to the bearing.

NOTE...and I repeat again, if the supply pressure is increased, this flow will obviously increase above natural flows, however if your temperatures are under control, then the natural side leakage is the design point, as anything above that is "safe" under any other circumstances of pump degradation etc.

Here's a "cherry picked example" of "someone else's work", which is my M.O. in providing "pseudo-scientific" "mumbo-jumbo"...IIRC, I think you once knew the authors ???

Bearing%20Viscosity.jpg


It was in the days when they were trying to work out HTHS and why the multigrades of the day didn't do so well in the bearings as their grade should have suggested, and they discovered the temprary shear thinning effects of high shear regimes on non newtonian oils.

They took an engine that they could access number 4 main via an external drilling, and applied oil to it at 40psi. Using a bunch of Newtonian (monogrades), they plotted the time that it took the bearing to swallow 250ml (1 cup for those not conversant with S.I.), so you can see how all else being equal, viscosity increase, flow rate decrease (at constant pressure).

Can also see how at the high shear rates, the apparent viscosity was significantly lower...the other chart shows how that apparent viscosity changed with RPM (shear rate) for a bunch of other oils.

Cheers
 
Oops, kindly ignore my comments above (which narrowly confines to gear pump system) which is quite irrelevant to Shannow's graph on oil flow rates thru conrod plain bearings.
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Yes ,600 and 1450 represents pump rpm typically direct-coupled to an electric motor.
 
Sorry, spent too much time typing... Zeng's interchange happened in the middle of my thought process.
 
Shannow,

Thanks for elaborating on this. Reading this reminds how I wished I'd now paid a bit more attention in fluid dynamics lectures at uni!

The reason I was asking was because earlier in this thread, our resident Shell personage took issue with my blanket statement that thick oils in general, and 20W50's in particular, are the best for wear control. He cited thicker oils causing loss of top-end oil flow (I'm assuming he's talking about flow to the cam shaft bearings) causing local hot spots (presumably increasing cam wear or cam shaft bearing wear)and general top end overheating resulting in head gasket damage. My gut reaction was he must be wrong (20W50's are the dogs bollocks on every industry wear test I've ever played with) but his explanation sounded plausible. I'm going to have to think about it some more before I finally arrive at the only logical conclusion with is I'm right and he's not!
 
Dunno how I missed this thread, it's a pearler.

You are correct regarding top end flow and head gaskets...it's a "whatthefar ??" correlation.

An engine can't handle 5 or so Cst at operating termperature but can survive a few thousand Cst difference during warmup ?
 
Originally Posted By: SonofJoe
He cited thicker oils causing loss of top-end oil flow (I'm assuming he's talking about flow to the cam shaft bearings) causing local hot spots (presumably increasing cam wear or cam shaft bearing wear)and general top end overheating resulting in head gasket damage. My gut reaction was he must be wrong (20W50's are the dogs bollocks on every industry wear test I've ever played with) but his explanation sounded plausible.


Fine up to that point, then it suddenly went horribly wrong.

There's a lot of it about.
 
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Okay, we're getting to the point where this is becoming a dead thread. I want to finish it off by making what I think is a serious point.

We've discussed Lobe's BMW and what can be done to fix his stuck oil control ring that's causing his engine to consume excessive amounts of oil. What we haven't discussed are the consequences of what that oil consumption has done to his catalytic converter.

Now if I understand things correctly, the amount of precious metal on the converter substrate is set to tolerate a 'normal' level of oil consumption so that it functions adequately over the life of the vehicle. However my gut feeling is that the very high levels of oil consumption you get with a stuck oil control ring will quickly deactivate the catalyst to the point where it might as well not be there.

And here's my first point. A big BMW running without a cat is going to be a very dirty, polluting beast indeed! The same can probably be said for any car with excessive oil consumption. Now so far, this has been thoroughly ignored. But now Volkswagen's Dieselgate has happened. The focus is on cars that don't do what they're supposed to do emissions-wise. I see in the press that someone has just uncovered another emissions cheat on Audi gasoline cars relating to turning the steering wheel.

And here's my second point. Dieselgate put blood in the water. The press, governments and environmental legislators are now actively looking for the next scandal. If that scandal involves bashing the Germans, so much the better! And of course, with the push to measuring 'on-the-road' emissions of 'real' cars, it's going to be easier to pick up on the things that go wrong; things like late onset oil ring sticking (or LOORS for short). And any fifth rate hack, could read this BITOG thread and pick up the story and run with it.

Now here's my last point. Say someone ever did make a big deal of LOORS and they lay it at the feet of BMW. Do you think that BMW are going to say, okay, it's a fair cop guv! I don't think so. They'll do their utmost to shift the blame onto those nasty oil companies because fundamentally, this IS an oil problem. And the oil companies that have buried their heads in the sand will be punished. Any oil company however that can say we are actively doing something on this and we're close to a solution will be rewarded.

Yes, it's all speculative pie in the sky but just remember that two nobodies in the US, armed with a bit of real data, threw a punch at VW which penetrated all of their formidable defenses and connected with a very fragile glass jaw.

So, with this in mind, I'll repeat again...

Does anyone want to help Lobe with his stuck ring problem????
 
Originally Posted By: SonofJoe
Does anyone want to help Lobe with his stuck ring problem????


I'm not convinced he has a stuck ring problem. It sounds like a CCV system failure to me. He mentions it as a possible cause but I see no evidence of pursuit down that path. No mention of mileage or maintenance history. No mention of gaskets have been made. Are there leaks? I have seen plenty of leaky BMW's and oblivious owners.

In diagnostics, you pursue the most likely and cheap/simple solution first... It seems a fool's errand to jump right into piston rings, which is not likely, cheap, or simple.
 
Yep i fully understand there are a number of factors as you say and CCV gets banded around alot in the colder climates, full of mayo etc.

A few owners wouldn't even know how to open the bonnet and top the oil up never mind post such a query on bitog.

Maint on my car -

Previous owner - bmw mechanic at local euro specialist

Im an engineer by trade (develping euro cyl head & blocks originally) but do little real hands on work these days in my eng work which is why i enjoy spannering on my cars, bikes, mountain bikes etc.

A lot of what i saw, when looking for my car had big fluid leaks etc. Mostly OFHG no doubt but when the oil runs down under the front of the engine, down and around the oil pan which is then soaked as well, you sometimes wonder if you're gonna be dropping the pan and fitting a new gasket too (nice long job without a hoist in your garage)

The e46's I viewed (i used to buy & sell cars as a young eng apprentice in the UK so have an eye for such) were not the best, mostly oil and coolant coolant leaks and othe usual suspects.
The engine bay and underneath in my car was dry but i also know from experience (friends) sometimes the last thing mechanics want do is work on their own cars haha.

Being a bmw enthusiast, with my previous car an E36 which i owned for 9 yrs, i know the maint items & idiosyncrasies

Prev maint (not needed) done in my owner ship, by myself.
Engine leaks - zero
Manual trans leaks - zero
Scan for codes - none.
OFHG, preventive maint only
Full CCV replacement and all hoses, cleaned dipstick return, new o ring etc
All vacuum system related hoses, ICV grommet, manifold caps etc.
All plastic coolant pipes, inc under inlet manifold
All coolant hoses
Oil and water temp sensors
Radiator and expansion tank.
Thermostat & water pump
Belts
Plugs
Power steering reservoir and oil flush.
Idler pulleys
Injectors out & ultrasonic cleaned, balanced.
Rebuilt vanos - variable valve timing (internals very clean)
Valve cover gasket (head was spotless when i removed this)
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Remove fuel level sensors within tank and clean, check calibration
Lower control arms
Manual trans oil
Rear Diff oil
Brake pads
Drivers side electric window regulator
Interior blower - final stage resister

Plus some others ive probably forgotten.


Our cars here in Oz have it pretty good with the climate being very friendly and we don't see alot of the cold weather problems, especially with the CCV, like alot of comments on the forums, blocked with mayo - cold weather, condensation etc.
I still have the original bmw ccv, manuf date 2002. Its in good nick and could go back on.

The PO did tell me when asked if the car uses oil, not really but he said he did have to top up abit towards the end of its OCI but nothing major.

I too experienced this and also this last time year into the OCI (like now) which got me onto the AC delco piston soak. I had quite good results with this but afterwards and into my current OCI this year, i been adding a quart here and there.

I've research alot and understand the low tension oil rings comments that these M54 suffer from.

I also researched the CCV alot inc the bad batch of BMW ones with a pinched diaphragm a few years ago, so i know about that.

My vacuum at idle indicative on a functioning CCV is 6" of water column at idle. Bmw spec is 4 - 6 (10-15 mbar)
Im on the higher side of the spec which is good, promotes the LTO rings being pulled out onto the cyl walls.
 
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Its interesting the CCV's on the BMW's clog up and will begin to cause smoke and oil consumption issues. Even the Pre-CCV vehicles (like mine) with a straight hose from the valve cover to the intake bellow can develop serious oil consumption, which result in people installing catch cans.

The fact that BMW chose, in Pre OBD-II vehicles to use a "straight hose" from the valve cover (with no actual valving, by the way) says the system isn't meant to vacuum significant quantities of oil in the first place. Now, the breather's intake under the VC is above the intake cams, which have a plastic shield installed over them on my E36. Perhaps inside that intake are a series of baffles to further prevent oil consumption?

My opinion on this is regardless of whether you have a CCV or not, having oil sucked into the intake is suggestive of excessive pressure being sent outside of the combustion chambers, sending oil into the breather hoses. Under high-vacuum situations, the oil is then vacuumed into the intake tract. A CCV setup that is blocked with carbon would perhaps worsen this.

The only seeming way the PCV system could accomplish this would be failed (i.e. stuck) piston rings. I did an OCI in my E36 with Mobil 1 0w40 back in 2014. Now, aside from the stuff exasperating existing valve-train and VANOS noise, initially there was a 0.5L consumption. I topped it off, and its not used oil since. This thread has me wanting to try a good quality mineral oil just to see the effect it could have...
 
Lobe,

Something you wrote struck a chord. It was where you said that the previous owner said it used a bit of oil and to begin with, that's what you saw but afterwards, consumption started to take off.

This is how this two stage process works. It's the small amount of oil you lose 'over the top' (ie through the PCV then into the intake to be burnt) that causes the progressive build-up of oil control ring deposits. Once the ring becomes stuck, the oil loss is primarily 'up from the sump' (ie up through the rings directly into the combustion chamber), dwarfing what you lose 'over the top'.

Modern thin synthetic oils are in most respects bomb-proof compared to minerals, especially in terms of their oxidative stability. However, they are not 'fire-proof' and because the are more resistant to oxidation, synthetic base oils are very likely to burn WORSE than minerals and leave more partially burnt grot behind in the combustion chamber, to be pushed passed the rings. And because synthetics have less inate solvency than minerals, they aren't so good at keeping this junk in solution. This is why I say you won't ever see a LOORS problem with a mineral 20W50 which has both low volatility and greater solvency.
 
Are hydro-finished group II base oils included in your definition of a mineral, non-synthetic engine oil for the purpose of this discussion?
 
That's a tricky question to give a straight answer to...

The solvency of Group II's is definitely worse than that of 'true mineral' Group I's because all of sulphur & nitrogen hetro-molecules have been zapped. This is very apparent on tests like the Teost MHT-4 test which gives terrible results for Group II's vs good results for Group I's.

However the Viscosity Index of Group I's and Group II's is more or less the same so they tend to occupy the same 'formulation space'; that of the heavier 'mineral' viscosity grades (eg 15W40 HDDO) rather than the traditionally lighter synthetic grades.

The big exception is the US where they make all Group II 5W30 oils. These oils can have very high Noack volatilities which can lead to a lot of 'over the top' piston deposits. This is reflected in the low pass marks that the API set for tests like the Sequence IIIG. I suspect a lot of the tales of oil loss you read about on BITOG are LOORS related because of this fact. However it's also obvious that not all OEMs are equal in this regard because it depends on the design of the ring pack you put on the pistons. The thicker the rings and the greater their tension, the less blow-by you get and even high Noack oils won't cause excessive oil loss.

In short, Group II's are worse than synthetics in some regards but not others...
 
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