Shaeffers #156 Moly Pure Synthetic 5W-30

[Al]

Just dumped y Mobil 1 10W-30 and changed with the #156. I will be anxious to compare the analysis. Previous was the TriSyn. I would hope the Shaeffers puts up better numbers.

Strange though putting in Green oil (#156).

I plan on sampling at 5K.

Any experiences with the #156?? I would prefer a 10W-40. But with the cooler season-I can deal with it.

 

[Patman]

It'll be very interesting to see how far this oil can go. If the blend is good for over 10k, then the full synthetic Schaeffers can probably do 15 to 20k quite easily. Will you be trying to see how far it will go Al? Or do you have a set interval in mind right from the start?

 

[UncleS2]

FWIW, the Schaeffer 10w30 blend, & their 30w Dino, are also that nice blue-green!

 

[Al]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Patman:
It'll be very interesting to see how far this oil can go. If the blend is good for over 10k, then the full synthetic Schaeffers can probably do 15 to 20k quite easily. Will you be trying to see how far it will go Al? Or do you have a set interval in mind right from the start?

---

Haven't decided yet. Ill change filters and pull a sample at 5K and then compare to the Trisyn results which were taken at the 5K. I'm guessing that if all is well I may either put a quart of the 15W-50 Mobil 1 in or possibly change to something heavier for the summer. Possibly the Shaffers 10W-40 blend.

 

[The_Oz]

Is that blue-green colour a dye or a result of mixing additives and such?

Regards,

Oz

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

quite frankly, I don't expect it to perform much better than the blend.

Al, if you didn't do a purge prior to change over, you may find that the first change would not be the best to go on to extend drains. Change over from one type of oil to another does several things.

You always have the possibilty of additive clash which an additive from the previous oil can compromise the performance with the newer oil. Second, a lot of oils leave some acids and such and the new oil will have to clean or neutralize those acids right off the bat therefore putting more strain on the new oil right from the git go.

This is why it is a good idea to take something like the auto rx or neutra 131 and run before change over. The neutra 131 will neutralize these left over acids and clean any residue prior to change over,then your new oil can get a better starting point.

When this is not done, then you should run the oil only to a standard drain interval(5k in this case), then do a change out. Then look at extending from that point because by this time, you have pretty much neutralized all the acids and such.

The oil analysis from a first drain is very seldom a good picture on how well an oil will hold up unless the steps to flush or purge the system prior is taken because of the probable left over contaminents and such which effect the oils ability to hold tbn. This is why Schaeffers never recommends extending drains right off the bat, but steps it up after the first one has been run and a trend is set.

Of course each car and oil is going to be different on how it looks. You can take a real low quality oil run for 7k, change over to a super high end oil(like schaeffers

) and it would overload the additive therefore shorting the life expectancy of the good oil. Then again, take a high quality oil, change over, and may never see any conflicts and degregation. This is why trending is important at reasonable drain intervals.

So in conclusion, this is the recommended method for a change over and how to consider extending your drain intervals. This is not just for schaeffers but for all oils.

 

[MolaKule]

Oz, it's the dye.

The last time I saw this dye was in 1955 at a Mobil station in Flint Michigan.
Or was that 1966?

 

[UncleS2]

D@#n! And I thought the Moly was green.

 

[Al]

quote:

---

Originally posted by BOBISTHEOILGUY:
quite frankly, I don't expect it to perform much better than the blend.

Al, if you didn't do a purge prior to change over, you may find that the first change would not be the best to go on to extend drains. Change over from one type of oil to another does several things.

You always have the possibilty of additive clash which an additive from the previous oil can compromise the performance with the newer oil. Second, a lot of oils leave some acids and such and the new oil will have to clean or neutralize those acids right off the bat therefore putting more strain on the new oil right from the git go.

This is why it is a good idea to take something like the auto rx or neutra 131 and run before change over. The neutra 131 will neutralize these left over acids and clean any residue prior to change over,then your new oil can get a better starting point.

When this is not done, then you should run the oil only to a standard drain interval(5k in this case), then do a change out. Then look at extending from that point because by this time, you have pretty much neutralized all the acids and such.

The oil analysis from a first drain is very seldom a good picture on how well an oil will hold up unless the steps to flush or purge the system prior is taken because of the probable left over contaminents and such which effect the oils ability to hold tbn. This is why Schaeffers never recommends extending drains right off the bat, but steps it up after the first one has been run and a trend is set.

Of course each car and oil is going to be different on how it looks. You can take a real low quality oil run for 7k, change over to a super high end oil(like schaeffers

) and it would overload the additive therefore shorting the life expectancy of the good oil. Then again, take a high quality oil, change over, and may never see any conflicts and degregation. This is why trending is important at reasonable drain intervals.

So in conclusion, this is the recommended method for a change over and how to consider extending your drain intervals. This is not just for schaeffers but for all oils.

---

Thanks for the info, Bob. Curosity dictates I will pull a sample anyway. I am very careful when I drain oil. I let it drain for a good long while and then pour half a quart of some clean oil thru to get a little more old out. But I will then do as you suggest. Thanks again.

 

[Patman]

I do the same thing as you Al, so my first interval with Schaeffers should be pretty good too, although I will still cut it shorter since I want to change the oil just before the winter hits here, then that interval will take me through until the spring.

 

[joghotrod]

Hi Al, This my first post on this board and I would like to know where you get the Schaeffer oil and how much does it cost. Thanks Jimmy

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

to the board joghotrod


You can get schaeffer from here

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ordermain.html

[ September 05, 2002, 12:41 AM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]

 

[Al]

The 5 gal container is actually O.K. It has a great pour spout. You just lay it on a table and with the spout at the top you can just roll the container to use the spout. I pour it into a 5 QT Mobil container (which has a large opening). That way I get a small benefit from Mobil 1 additives.

 

[VaderSS]

quote:

---

I pour it into a 5 QT Mobil container (which has a large opening). That way I get a small benefit from Mobil 1 additives.

---

Uh oh, Patman is not going to be able to sleep now. You should have used neutra purge first.

 

[Patman]

You'll notice I didn't sleep very well last night, which is why you saw so many posts from me at strange hours. Just ask Bob, he was wondering why the heck I was up. It's because I'm worried about you guys and stuff like this!

 

[M Smith]

MolaKule - Why does Shaeffers put a dye in their oil?

 

[dbrowne1]

Is #156 available in quarts? Last I checked, it only came in drums. This is an oil that I'd be interested in trying (I want an all-PAO base due to turbo/heat concerns).