Seafoam kill oil filter life???

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I was wondering if Seafoam destroy the media insode of an oil filter? I plan on doing a couple more run throughs of Seafoam through the crankcase before an oil change but I'd hate to throw away a perfectly good filter that has plenty of life left (FRAM TG, ULTRA and M1 filters). The Seafoam instructions say to replace filter when used in the crankcase.
 
Probably less concerned about degrading the filter media and more about the filter clogging from the varnish and sludge the Seafoam loosens up. Even a high quality, high capacity filter can get blocked and start bypassing pretty fast when a whole lot of deposits are knocked loose. That's why Seafoam is best when used with a very short OCI of a few hundred miles with cheap oil and a cheap filter. Watch for the oil turning black from the stuff that's been dissolved.

Do you know you have sludge or vanish problems, or is there a symptom like a noisy sticky lifter you're trying to free up? If the motor is very sludged up, beware of the pickup tube screen clogging. Chunks that have been loosened from inside the engine but not dissolved down to small enough pieces can stick on the screen and starve the oil pump.
 
What he said! If the engine is very dirty you can plug the filter doing an engine flush at idle let alone driving it around. If the engine is basically sound I would not put Seafoam in the crankcase. I would go slower and use Rislone and a HD engine oil in 10W-30 and change the oil and filter after 3k miles.

Also, Seafoam is over-hyped. With modern engines and oils you the engine would need to be pretty neglected to need such an aggressive clean up.
 
What were the results of your previous run(s) of Seafoam in the crankcase?

Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon
I was wondering if Seafoam destroy the media insode of an oil filter? I plan on doing a couple more run throughs of Seafoam through the crankcase before an oil change but I'd hate to throw away a perfectly good filter that has plenty of life left (FRAM TG, ULTRA and M1 filters). The Seafoam instructions say to replace filter when used in the crankcase.
 
Thanks guys. I only used it once this past January but I've been deplpyed since. I'm trying to see if it will fix an oil consumption issue im having with my tC. It uses the 2AZ-FE engine that has oil consumption issues as of late. Stuck rings, oil return holes in pistons not drilled large enough, etc. Im just trying to see if this will fix anything as i burn about 1 qt every 2,800 miles. The car has used full synthetic oils majority of its life so far from Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum and Valvoline in both 5W-20/0W-20.

As far as im aware of i dont have a sludge issue and no milky colored oil comes out when i change the oil. Ive stuck with mostly a 5K interval regardless which full synthetic oil i use. I do short trip a lot though because of where the base is and the fact i work in different locations on the base so its a lot of stop and go short trips. Like maybe twice a month or so i drive over 30 minutes to my destination.
 
The first question I would ask is "What problem are you trying to cure, and are you sure it's really a problem?"

Are you certain that there is sludge in your engine that needs cleaning?

My concern would be diluting the oil too much and reducing its ability to properly protect the engine... that is, in addition to the potential of clogging things up.
 
Using a qt every 2800 miles is nothing to worry about.
You sir don't have a problem worthy of Seafoam and the risks involved.
 
Seafoam is 50% Pale oil (lube), 30% Naphtha (mild solvent), 20% Isopropyl alcohol (water dispersal). That brew wont unclog piston holes. Thin and degrade the oil, thats about all those chemicals can do. There is no flow at the piston holes, the carbon inside the holes has hardened into a solid mass. Its done. Will stay like that until its taken apart. I had a 2AZ-FE with identical problems, finally died at 345k. The engine will run forever on 10w30, 10w40. Keep the rpms low, don't go 80 on the highway.
 
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