Rust removal followed by LineX.

[RamFan]

Hello all, I've been wanting to get the lower quarter panel of the truck LineX'd so today I finally took it down to the local place for an estimate. I was quoted $1,200 however I'd need to get the rust addressed first. The truck has endured 10 Illinois winters and has stood up unbelievably well. In regards to removing the rust I was thinking of simply using an 80grit followed with bondo to smooth out the surface. Is this something I should tackle on a weekend or is it best left to a body shop? I'm inexperienced at body work so I'd like to hear from those who do. Bottom of the tailgate. Bottom of tailgate when tailgate is open. Under the driver side door. Inside of the door.

 

[supton]

Are you thinking of bondo under the Line-X? I wouldn't think it necessary, let alone desirable. Just go down to bare metal.

 

[RamFan]

Originally Posted By: supton

Are you thinking of bondo under the Line-X? I wouldn't think it necessary, let alone desirable. Just go down to bare metal.

That's what I was thinking, wasn't sure if it would be necessary to smooth the surface prior to LineX.

 

[supton]

Smooth would be bad--well, too smooth. My understanding is that they take 60 grit or so to the painted surface before laying down the Line-X. Needs to be rough to get a good "bite".

 

[JTK]

Man that seems expensive. I'd go over it myself with POR15 or spray cans before I threw that kind of cash at it. It was a good 14yrs ago, but I had my 1998 K1500 reg cab, short box Line-X'd in the bed, up over the side-rails and tailgate. It was $400 then. I recall being sick to my stomach when 3-4 guys jumped in the back and started having at it with sand paper.

 

[OneEyeJack]

Wouldn't you want to treat the areas where you removed the rust with something before coating it?

 

[dave123]

The rust needs to be all blasted clean is it worth it I would not put that kind of money into it also it looks like it's comming from backside it's just time it's all toast.

 

[doitmyself]

If your rust is similar to the picture below, it is originating INSIDE the "sandwiched" metal and is working its way to the outside. No amount of exterior cleaning and topical treatment will stop it: You can slow it down. Some type of creeping oil interior treatment would slow the internal rust down.

 

[RamFan]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself

If your rust is similar to the picture below, it is originating INSIDE the "sandwiched" metal and is working its way to the outside. No amount of exterior cleaning and topical treatment will stop it: You can slow it down. Some type of creeping oil interior treatment would slow the internal rust down.

That is exactly what it is. I am the second owner, the previous owner took an unbelievable amount of care to this truck, full maintenance records, aftermarket parts done the right way, etc. The frame has essentially no rust on it nor does the body, except for what you see in these pictures. It is only where there is a pinch weld, you can tell that he must have washed truck throughout winter because surface rust is non-existent. However, where water and salt could have entered through a pinch weld it does. I'm assuming he didn't get any kind of preventative rust treatments (which were something I didn't believe in until BITOG). So correct me if I'm wrong. But it seems as though most people are saying that at this point in time, reversing the damage isn't cost effective. Instead I should treat the symptoms and prevent further spreading? Would yearly Ziebart (or similar) treatments and hitting trouble areas with paint be the best option at this point?

 

[buck91]

Sounds like a good candidate for a thorough fluidfilm application.