Took the advice given from my previous post about the S & W Sigma series and just bought a new revolver--a Ruger SP101 .357 Mag with a 3" barrel ($449.00)---does anyone have any experience with or knowledge of this gun? It seems very well made and feels very good in my hand. My next question---would I be better off with +P .38 special loads (Cor-Bon +P .38 spl 125 gr JHP) or low recoil .357 loads like the Remington Medium Velocity 125 gr JHP or a lighter, faster 110 grain JHP? I have no experience firing .357 Mags, just .38 specials, so I'm concerned about recoil/accuracy. (the gun is for home defense only) Thanks!
RUGER SP101 .357 Mag
- Thread starter MADMIKE
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Try a box of each and find out what works for you. If .357 is too much step down to .38 +P then .38. Its better to have a load you can hit with than the best one on earth.
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Dry fire every night to smooth out the trigger, as suggested above I'd try both and see which one I could shoot more accurately with and also measure how fast I can take follow-up shots.
Originally Posted By: MADMIKE
Took the advice given from my previous post about the S & W Sigma series and just bought a new revolver--a Ruger SP101 .357 Mag with a 3" barrel ($449.00)---does anyone have any experience with or knowledge of this gun? It seems very well made and feels very good in my hand. My next question---would I be better off with +P .38 special loads (Cor-Bon +P .38 spl 125 gr JHP) or low recoil .357 loads like the Remington Medium Velocity 125 gr JHP or a lighter, faster 110 grain JHP? I have no experience firing .357 Mags, just .38 specials, so I'm concerned about recoil/accuracy. (the gun is for home defense only) Thanks!
It is a fine weapon. I have owned mine for a couple of years now. It is the wife's gun and is shown in the picture.
My wife shoots this gun better than I do with .38 +P in whatever flavor you choose, but she especially likes the Federal FBI Load (158 grain LSWHP +P).
Her gun shown in the pic has an essential upgrade in my opinion, and that is the inclusion of a Hogue Mono-Grip. It soaks up much of the recoil and is much more comfortable IMHO.
I have put a few hundred rounds of 125 grain .357 JHP through this gun and the recoil is far less than people claim. You have to remember that this is not a Featherweight Smith J-frame. This gun weighs nearly twice what those do at 25 ounces. It is built like tank and can handle any load you can throw at it.
My wife can comfortably shoot .38 158 grain +P's to the tune of a couple hundred straight with this gun. Proof is in the pudding.
This is a fine revolver, and in my opinion, the most durable and toughest small frame revolver they make. It is just not as concealable or nearly as light as the competitors, but it much more comfortable to shoot.
Next thing I am adding to her SP101 is the latest style Crimson trace.
Bottom line: With the SP101 you do not need to spend a lot of money on the ultra-expensive Speer and Corbon reduced recoil loads. You have a gun that has the weight to tame them down, especially with the Hogue rubber grip.
Took the advice given from my previous post about the S & W Sigma series and just bought a new revolver--a Ruger SP101 .357 Mag with a 3" barrel ($449.00)---does anyone have any experience with or knowledge of this gun? It seems very well made and feels very good in my hand. My next question---would I be better off with +P .38 special loads (Cor-Bon +P .38 spl 125 gr JHP) or low recoil .357 loads like the Remington Medium Velocity 125 gr JHP or a lighter, faster 110 grain JHP? I have no experience firing .357 Mags, just .38 specials, so I'm concerned about recoil/accuracy. (the gun is for home defense only) Thanks!
It is a fine weapon. I have owned mine for a couple of years now. It is the wife's gun and is shown in the picture.
My wife shoots this gun better than I do with .38 +P in whatever flavor you choose, but she especially likes the Federal FBI Load (158 grain LSWHP +P).
Her gun shown in the pic has an essential upgrade in my opinion, and that is the inclusion of a Hogue Mono-Grip. It soaks up much of the recoil and is much more comfortable IMHO.
I have put a few hundred rounds of 125 grain .357 JHP through this gun and the recoil is far less than people claim. You have to remember that this is not a Featherweight Smith J-frame. This gun weighs nearly twice what those do at 25 ounces. It is built like tank and can handle any load you can throw at it.
My wife can comfortably shoot .38 158 grain +P's to the tune of a couple hundred straight with this gun. Proof is in the pudding.
This is a fine revolver, and in my opinion, the most durable and toughest small frame revolver they make. It is just not as concealable or nearly as light as the competitors, but it much more comfortable to shoot.
Next thing I am adding to her SP101 is the latest style Crimson trace.
Bottom line: With the SP101 you do not need to spend a lot of money on the ultra-expensive Speer and Corbon reduced recoil loads. You have a gun that has the weight to tame them down, especially with the Hogue rubber grip.
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That's my gun, she's a beauty! Thanks to Saturn Fan especially and everyone else, glad I made a good choice! I'll try the different loads and the dry firing to loosen it up and smooth it out. Can't wait to get it to the range.
Originally Posted By: MADMIKE
That's my gun, she's a beauty! Thanks to Saturn Fan especially and everyone else, glad I made a good choice! I'll try the different loads and the dry firing to loosen it up and smooth it out. Can't wait to get it to the range.
You're going to love it! I'll never part withminehers.
That's my gun, she's a beauty! Thanks to Saturn Fan especially and everyone else, glad I made a good choice! I'll try the different loads and the dry firing to loosen it up and smooth it out. Can't wait to get it to the range.
You're going to love it! I'll never part with
My Dad has one of the early .38 special versions. Solid gun. Some gunsmiths would lengthen the head space on these early guns to make them into .357. I never heard about one having problems.
Ruger got wise to this and they started to make them in .357 a little latter.
It should serve you very well. Heavy, but that helps with recoil.
ETA: The Hogue rubber grips are a big help.
Ruger got wise to this and they started to make them in .357 a little latter.
It should serve you very well. Heavy, but that helps with recoil.
ETA: The Hogue rubber grips are a big help.
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It is a real nice pistol that is built like a tank. The trigger smooths out with use You did good!!!
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Some gunsmiths would lengthen the head space on these early guns to make them into .357. I never heard about one having problems.
Ruger got wise to this and they started to make them in .357 a little latter.
Could you explain how this is done? The only way I can think of would be to shorten the forcing cone?
Some gunsmiths would lengthen the head space on these early guns to make them into .357. I never heard about one having problems.
Ruger got wise to this and they started to make them in .357 a little latter.
Could you explain how this is done? The only way I can think of would be to shorten the forcing cone?
dnewton3
Staff member
I have a Ruger GP100 (full size) and my friend has the SP101, both in .357mag. I like them both. They are nearly indestructable; built like tanks (and weigh about as much). I much prefer the solid side-plate design of these two revolves to the seperate side-plate design of nearly all competitors, as it results in much greater frame strength. Further, the top-straps on these guns are much more robust than the typical revolver. For comparison, the top strap on my GP100 .357 is just as thick as the top strap on my S&W mdl 629 .44 mag!
As for ammo choice, start out with the .38+p, then move up to .357mag and see if you can accurately handle the rounds. What is most important is putting the round on target every time. Then choose the "best" round that you can accurately throw downrange. Since you're being specific about the weapon use (home defense), then about 15 yards is about the max distance you'd have to worry about. The .357mag has about the best 1st-shot stop rate of any round out there, according to FBI statistics.
As for ammo choice, start out with the .38+p, then move up to .357mag and see if you can accurately handle the rounds. What is most important is putting the round on target every time. Then choose the "best" round that you can accurately throw downrange. Since you're being specific about the weapon use (home defense), then about 15 yards is about the max distance you'd have to worry about. The .357mag has about the best 1st-shot stop rate of any round out there, according to FBI statistics.
Originally Posted By: TurboLuver
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Some gunsmiths would lengthen the head space on these early guns to make them into .357. I never heard about one having problems.
Ruger got wise to this and they started to make them in .357 a little latter.
Could you explain how this is done? The only way I can think of would be to shorten the forcing cone?
The cylinders are long enough, at least for light .357 rounds. I just checked this with my Dad's gun.
You just have to extend the head space (chamber) to get the longer .357 round (case) to fit.
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Some gunsmiths would lengthen the head space on these early guns to make them into .357. I never heard about one having problems.
Ruger got wise to this and they started to make them in .357 a little latter.
Could you explain how this is done? The only way I can think of would be to shorten the forcing cone?
The cylinders are long enough, at least for light .357 rounds. I just checked this with my Dad's gun.
You just have to extend the head space (chamber) to get the longer .357 round (case) to fit.
MADMIKE,
Ruger's are built like bank vaults and will last longer than you will EASY!!!!! I consider them to be much superior to Smith & Wessons and such. I have the 38 special version 2" and stoke mine with the old PMC "Tubulars" which is available anymore but I trust them. The longer barrel like your will give you more velocity comapred to mine shorty so have good confidence that your ammo will expand reliably. In addition it's a great field/campers gun. Enjoy your new toy. Currently I want to get their newest toy (LCR) for my collection.
Durango
Ruger's are built like bank vaults and will last longer than you will EASY!!!!! I consider them to be much superior to Smith & Wessons and such. I have the 38 special version 2" and stoke mine with the old PMC "Tubulars" which is available anymore but I trust them. The longer barrel like your will give you more velocity comapred to mine shorty so have good confidence that your ammo will expand reliably. In addition it's a great field/campers gun. Enjoy your new toy. Currently I want to get their newest toy (LCR) for my collection.
Durango
A fine choice! The SP101 will serve you very well.
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Originally Posted By: TurboLuver
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Some gunsmiths would lengthen the head space on these early guns to make them into .357. I never heard about one having problems.
Ruger got wise to this and they started to make them in .357 a little latter.
Could you explain how this is done? The only way I can think of would be to shorten the forcing cone?
The cylinders are long enough, at least for light .357 rounds. I just checked this with my Dad's gun.
You just have to extend the head space (chamber) to get the longer .357 round (case) to fit.
So you need to remove material from the breechface?
Originally Posted By: TurboLuver
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Some gunsmiths would lengthen the head space on these early guns to make them into .357. I never heard about one having problems.
Ruger got wise to this and they started to make them in .357 a little latter.
Could you explain how this is done? The only way I can think of would be to shorten the forcing cone?
The cylinders are long enough, at least for light .357 rounds. I just checked this with my Dad's gun.
You just have to extend the head space (chamber) to get the longer .357 round (case) to fit.
So you need to remove material from the breechface?
Thanks for all the responses guys, I really appreciate it. This is a really nice little gun and I'm glad to know that it's well regarded by experienced gunowners. Thanks again!
The 38+p FBI load is a pretty good choice. If 357 magnum recoil is not too much for you, I like the 125 grain variety.
I had an SP 101 .38. It was like carrying a brick. Great quality. But I hated it. I'll be replacing it with a S&W 442 or the 340 (.357 variety)
Originally Posted By: Al
I had an SP 101 .38. It was like carrying a brick. Great quality. But I hated it. I'll be replacing it with a S&W 442 or the 340 (.357 variety)
+1, they are heavy son of a guns no doubt. But they make a great nightstand or open carry piece.
I had an SP 101 .38. It was like carrying a brick. Great quality. But I hated it. I'll be replacing it with a S&W 442 or the 340 (.357 variety)
+1, they are heavy son of a guns no doubt. But they make a great nightstand or open carry piece.
Originally Posted By: TurboLuver
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Originally Posted By: TurboLuver
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Some gunsmiths would lengthen the head space on these early guns to make them into .357. I never heard about one having problems.
Ruger got wise to this and they started to make them in .357 a little latter.
Could you explain how this is done? The only way I can think of would be to shorten the forcing cone?
The cylinders are long enough, at least for light .357 rounds. I just checked this with my Dad's gun.
You just have to extend the head space (chamber) to get the longer .357 round (case) to fit.
So you need to remove material from the breechface?
As I stated, you have make the chamber longer. You don't have to do anything to the breach face or forcing cone.
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Originally Posted By: TurboLuver
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Some gunsmiths would lengthen the head space on these early guns to make them into .357. I never heard about one having problems.
Ruger got wise to this and they started to make them in .357 a little latter.
Could you explain how this is done? The only way I can think of would be to shorten the forcing cone?
The cylinders are long enough, at least for light .357 rounds. I just checked this with my Dad's gun.
You just have to extend the head space (chamber) to get the longer .357 round (case) to fit.
So you need to remove material from the breechface?
As I stated, you have make the chamber longer. You don't have to do anything to the breach face or forcing cone.
Okay.
To the OP, sorry for the hijack.
To the OP, sorry for the hijack.
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