ROYAL PURPLE

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synthetic additives containing iso-paraffinic diluents."

Additives are made in concentrated form (usually in an ester format) with mega PPM's of the additive chemical.

In order for the additive to be miscable (mixable and soluble) in both petroleum and synthetic oils, group I-III pure paraffininc base oils are mixed-in at the time of manufacture to dilute the additives for example, so one can get an additive yield of say 800 ppm of ZDDP/quart of oil.

The amount of Group I-III oils used to dilute the additive(s) is insignificant in the sense that it does NOT affect the quality or characteristics of the base oil or make it less than synthetic.

By declaring the diluents are isoparrafinic oils, they are being extremely honest and open in this regard, IMHO.
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[ May 18, 2004, 05:16 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
 
Thanks for the info.I've gotten a little carried away about this oil thing.No matter what group the RP is in I'm sure it's a good oil.Heck all my cars have survived on dyno oil all my life.Changed every 3--4,000 miles. If it was a good oil and on "sale ",I bought it.Once again thanks, Jack.
 
WoW thanks for the info !

I run both RP and M1 in two different 4.6's.

Been online forrums since 2000, still perplexed on what is best to use for long term.

Money is not a isssue, what works for me is.
 
Afraid to say, seems that RP is garbage.

I just can't get over the BAD feeling about Amsoil.
Maybe its all the PUSHY salesmen.

Never ssen proof yet on what is TRULY best.

Looks like I will just stick with Ford oilin the end.

M1 has and was bashed to death on many boards as being over priced dino oil. Which is used in my little fleet.
The 02 GT I have seems to LOVE the RP 5w-20.
I read scary stuff about RP last night
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So I am scared now, what to use
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June 1st I will start lab testing, so to find my own proof.
A 4.6 has LOTS of timing chains and think SYN is needed for EXTRA protection. IMOP

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From my experiences, the RP has lost its viscosity and sheared down in my applications. The 10W-30 turned into a lower 5W-30, after not too many miles, and the 5W-30 turned into a single 18wt oil. The engine that got RP the most (96 Stratus V6-mitsubishi engine 24V 2.5L great engine) certainly had more noise, like valve train and almost a bearing thumping. My friend's Dakota truck had A LOT of timing chain clatter with the RP 10/30. It also became black, quickly. We we not impressed, expecially when Mobil-1 is $1/qt cheaper, and the engines have run better. I also have seen some Ford engines and a Honda engine on Motorcraft 5/20. It really seems to be a great oil...and consider the price, it's great! Good luck with the oils you are going to use, and it will be interesting to see what you prefer.
 
You'll see many comments by Honda owners here supporting both the good dino and the synthetic 5W-20 oils. My friend in Austin, 427Z06, I believe he likes M1 in his Honda and has done well with it in the Texas heat. We run Pennzoil dino 5W-20 in ours, now with the Molabrew. Others here like the Havoline and Chevron Supreme dino 5W-20s as well as Motorcraft and Pennzoil. I think there is general agreement that using a proper filter and changing at appropriate intervals, 3-4,000 miles for dino, 5,000+ (depending on results) for synthetics, you'll be fine.
 
This is truly amazing. Your car seems to like the RP stuff, but you read somewhere that the RP was garbage, so you are scared stiff.
This board is about proof, not gossip. People have been enraged because the oil dropped in viscocity, yet the RP has one of the best figures when it comes to wear. That is the reason you put oil in your motor. Otherwise we could use water. If you are worried about your oil, take a sample and have it analised. This will give you a little picture into what the oil is seeing.
We run RP in a bunch of law enforcement 4.6l motors. Their wear metals are insignificant, and they run 10,000 miles between oil changes. They run for extended periods,without being shut down. I will give you a # to call if you need eidence.
D Steven, show me the evidence of the thinning. The rest of your post was anecdotal,so did not count. I have yet to hear a bearing "thump".
 
Hi PRRPILL. I was simply telling of my, and my friend's, experiences with the Royal Purple. Yes, it has been analized. It lost viscosity every time. I was so sold on the Royal Purple I ran it for several thousand miles, as did my friend. Anecdotal isn't so...we are just stating what happened. And the 4.6L's it is run in are very easy on oil and show very low wear whatever oil is in them. Is that the Chicago area PD squads? I have nothing against the oil. If it works for someone, that is awesome! For our applications, it just wasn't doing as well as Mobil-1, especially for $1.27 more/qt. That is all. And yes, I have had it analized, and it has went out of viscosity to the far low side every time. A bad oil, no, I prefer it over others, but not for the price and how it's turned out for us. That is why I recommended, like STSNYC, to try something else before spending the extra $.
 
Hello everyone. I am new to this bored and I know I have a lot of reading to do but I have a question. I own a 96 honda accord EX Sedan and I have been running Royal Purple now in my car. I need an oil change and I was wondering I have 2 bottles of RP 5w-30 can I mix that with M1 5w-30 and make it for another 3000 miles?
 
quote:

Originally posted by 96vteccd5:
Hello everyone. I am new to this bored and I know I have a lot of reading to do but I have a question. I own a 96 honda accord EX Sedan and I have been running Royal Purple now in my car. I need an oil change and I was wondering I have 2 bottles of RP 5w-30 can I mix that with M1 5w-30 and make it for another 3000 miles?

You'll be fine. But why go only 3k miles on such good oils. Seem like a waste of money (to me at least).

Regards,
 
quote:

Originally posted by PRRPILL:
The Rp 5W-20 is a Synthetic, with some mineral oil in the Additive package. The proof of how good the oil is, is in it's life in your vehicle, under your conditions. Send some of the oil for a UOA and then trend it from there on. I am always available for RP help.

Llew


Hi PRRPILL, btw do you know what's the HTHS of RP 5w20 motor oil? Couldn't find any infor in RP website.
 
stick with a Honda oil filter, they are designed specifically for your engine, why take a chance on some other brand when the Honda oil filters are excellent pieces.

I dont know much about RP, but Redline makes an excellent 5w-20 with really good HTHS numbers and lots of nice aw's.
 
quote:

stick with a Honda oil filter, they are designed specifically for your engine, why take a chance on some other brand when the Honda oil filters are excellent pieces.

Really, even though Honda has switched to a Fram Canada mfg. filter in North America, complete with those lovely cardboard technology endcaps? There are better constructed filters available.

John
 
quote:

Originally posted by Durrr:
I looked at a picture of a blown 383 race motor that was torn down after 300 hours of running on Royal Purple. Changed every 20 runs using the 41 formula. The bearings were pitted and scored to **** , while another race motor, a blown 400 dropped into a Sonoma running 7 second 1/4 miles with SAE 30 Pennzoil had zero scoring at all. Same amount of time with similar change intervals. However, both used RP gear oil and the gearing was perfect in both. Any reason why this would happen?

I have a 427 C5R blocked motor that has over 25000 miles on 15w40 Royal Purple without any problems. My friend has a 15000 mile 427 C5R blocked LS1 with an 5lb ATI blower, and he has spun bearings, and his camshaft is wornout. It's getting rebuilt now. His is mostly street driven miles, while mine has track sessions, and countless 1/4 mile runs. He used 15w50 Mobil 1 so I doubt it was the oil. Like someone else mentioned, the motor was not put together right.
BTW I am now trying 15w50 Mobil1 and it's a great oil too for my motor. So you can't say it's oil. If an engine goes out of specs, it can create abnormal stresses and wear and will fail prematurely. You can say the same thing with factory lemons that were not put together right.
 
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