I JUST BOUGHT A 2001 HONDA ACCORD EX 2.3L ULEV VTECH ENGINE.HONDA &OTHER MECHANICS SAY USE THE 5W20 OIL AS RECOMENDED BY HONDA.SO I'M GONNA USE ROYAL PURPLE THE NEXT OIL CHANGE, WITH A AMSOIL FILTER.CHANGE THE OIL & FILTER EVERY 6,000 MILES.
WHAT DO YOU THINK ? ALSO THE AMSOIL REP SAYS THE ROYAL PURPLE IS A BLEND, NOT 100% SYNTHETIC ?
P.S. THE HONDA HAS 50,000 MILES. THANKS.
ROYAL PURPLE
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MolaKule
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Please turn off your caps, Jack.
We now have an RP sponsor on board who may answer your question about RP being a blend or full synthetic.
Just remember, blends are NOT BAD!
There are a couple of UOA reports on the board of RP 5w-20 in a Ford V8 (I think) that were outstanding. I understand that RP uses a small amount of mineral oil to carry the add pack. Otherwise, it's a full synthetic.
A little mineral oil is ok.Blends are ok too.That is what the ford 5w20 is, a blend.Which is the oil my mechanic recommended.I picked the RP, hoping it might be a little better oil.
The Rp 5W-20 is a Synthetic, with some mineral oil in the Additive package. The proof of how good the oil is, is in it's life in your vehicle, under your conditions. Send some of the oil for a UOA and then trend it from there on. I am always available for RP help.
Llew
I had an Amsoil rep call me out of the blue. I asked him a few questions and some of the info he gave me was, redline, m1 and royal purple are all "hydrocracked".
His condescending attitude and misinformation turned me off of his product.
quote:Nothing against RP but you may want to at least give the Motorcraft 5w-20 blend a try. It has produced consistently good to excellent UOA reports on vehicles that call for a 5w-20 and it'll save you a bunch of $$ over the RP. I'd run the Motorcraft a few OCIs and do an analysis to see how it performs then take it from there. My two cents worth.
Originally posted by jack_purple: A little mineral oil is ok.Blends are ok too.That is what the ford 5w20 is, a blend.Which is the oil my mechanic recommended.I picked the RP, hoping it might be a little better oil.
Has anyone tried AMSOIL's XL-7500 5W20? I know it is a Group 3 oil, but I'm curious how it would hold up. Too bad XL-7500 went G3 and didn't lower the price much. :-(
Crazy question,I'm new and probly a little stupid too.Don't shoot me now..what if I put in 1qt.of 10w30 RP with the recomended 5w20.The vtech holds 4.5 qts.?? I read the RP runs kinda thin after a few thousand miles ?
![[No no]](/forums/graemlins/nono.gif)
If it does I heard some vtechs use oil anyway so you might try their 20/50. Only one thing was in a parts store today to buy a oil pressure gague and they had RP. The 20/50 had only a J rating I couldn't believe my eyes. ![[Eek!]](images/icons/shocked.gif){kind=icon}
I looked at a picture of a blown 383 race motor that was torn down after 300 hours of running on Royal Purple. Changed every 20 runs using the 41 formula. The bearings were pitted and scored to **** , while another race motor, a blown 400 dropped into a Sonoma running 7 second 1/4 miles with SAE 30 Pennzoil had zero scoring at all. Same amount of time with similar change intervals. However, both used RP gear oil and the gearing was perfect in both. Any reason why this would happen?
I really could not tell you. I have no idea why the bearings were pitted and scored. Do you have any analysis to show us when it occurred. There are so many things that could have gone wrong. Assembly, tolerances, silicon in oil, particilate in oil passages after assembly, starting up dry, no oil and running. It is up to the engine builder to disassemble the motor and like a good CSI determine the true culprit.
Racing 41 is at least as strong as any other 10W-40 on the market.
I sposor a Twun turbocharged truck, running a 390, putting out 2500HP and he has NEVER failed a bearing with our oil.
Durr,
I concur with RP in racing engines this comparison is apples and oranges and everything but scientific.
Engine "Pathology" is much moe complex that comparing 2 bearings exclusive of every other factor.
Perhaps the Penzoil engine was better built to say the least.
Regardless both engines were in the "beater" category.
Win the race and rebuild the engine later.
Who knows what happened, I didn't ask him what the bearing material was made of, or the clearances he spec'd for the engine, so maybe its a mechanical fault. He said he still had a solid crosshatch on the cylinder walls though hehe
the bearing wear you described is symptomatic of debris. perhaps it was assembled dirty, or some metal passed through the oiling system after a failure.
-michael
Good morning,
I have a few questions.
1. Can I mix in 1 qt. of RP 10w30 with the RP 5w20 to give me peace of mind in the summer heat and long vacation drives.I heard RP gets thin after a few thousand miles.
2. What group is RP 5w20, RP 10w30 in ?
III,IV,V ?
I just want the truth.I have 14 qts. in my garage,which I will use.Then if it is group III, hyrocracked or whatever,I will use the Motorcraft 5w20 in my Honda from then on.I hope the RP rep jumps in here to give us the Truth. Thank you. Jack...
P.S. This oil is going in a 2001 Honda Accord VTECH engine.4.5 qts. ![[I dont know]](/forums/graemlins/dunno.gif)
Hi,
The 2 oils will mix without any problem. I have run 5W-30 in my wifes Suburban for 16000 miles. The oil has spent a little time in the lower vis area and then come back to a 5W-30 at about 4000 miles. But, my wear particles were always low. I do not have a problem with the oil thinning, as long as it protects. Wear particles are an indication of protection.
Terry says it is PAO oir group 1V, The website says it is synthetic, and our chemist assures me it is.
So, I have to say it is. On the FAQ's it says,
"Motor Oil
Is Royal Purple® synthetic motor oil?
Yes. Royal Purple® Motor oils are composed of a proprietary formulation of synthetic base oils and synthetic additives containing iso-paraffinic diluents."
So, other than you asking a lab to identify the base oils when you do a VOA, that is what I am going with.
I tust this helps.
Llew
quote:Has anyone tried AMSOIL's XL-7500 5W20? I know it is a Group 3 oil, but I'm curious how it would hold up. Too bad XL-7500 went G3 and didn't lower the price much. :-(
quote:I've tried it in a 2002 honda civic ex. Its outstanding. The only reason I am not using it anymore is due to its pricing. Or more specifically I can't justify the 7 dollar shipping charges for 4 silly quarts of oil when others will ship for next to free. The oil impressed me with its performance. I ran 3 OCIs with it, from 6-7k changes. No problem.
PRRPILL, I assume the RP 10w40 SAE oil is also full synthetic PAO Group IV+ oil, is this correct? Thanks.
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