Royal Purple for OPE

[Pete591]

While at WalMart I picked up a couple bottles of 5w30 RP synthetic for my Honda 9 HP Snowblower and 4 qts of 10w30 RP synthetic for my Briggs V-Twin 20 HP tractor engine.

RP does get mixed reviews in the "VOA" threads..but in the "UAO" threads the wear numbers look very good and the oil holds a high TBN extremely well. It's "SL" rated and for about $ 6.00/qt looks like a good value to me.

I am going with the "tall" Purolator Pure-1 Gold as they have "Micronic" filtration at a level of 99.9% effieiency plus a nice textured grip on the outside of the filter...for $ 5.00 @ K-mart. Beats the Briggs shortie for $ 9.99 "Fram"...filter I think..

Comments?

 

[Scienceman]

Only way to know is to try it.

 

[Bror Jace]

I'm sure it will be fine ... but I have always questioned the use of a premium-priced synthetic in OPE ... especially if it doesn't have a full-flow filter. Carb'd engines run rich and fuel-foul the oil faster and without a filter, wear bits and other abrasive debris builds up and are not removed from the oil supply.

So, more frequent changes are in order. Why then would you want a $5-8 synthetic when a $2-3 mineral oil would suffice? It's the waste that appalls me.

I suppose the synthetic will probably have the best effect in the snowblower where synthetics work to ease below freezing start-up. 5w30 is a pretty good choice ... but among 5w30s, I would compare pour points ... and even take a look at 0W-30s as well. I'd love to see someone here use/try Chevron Delo 0w30 as it is a HDEO ... but finding it is like finding leprechaun gold ... impossible for most of us. Most here love GC in snowblowers but like Chevron Delo 0W-30, I have never actually seen it.

I like Purolator filters, but shy away from the Pure-One as I am fearful of that high-density media creating restriction. I'm sure in some applications it would not be an issue ... but you never know for sure.

 

[Pete591]

I had used B&S 30wt dino to break in for 5 hrs and sent the sample into Blackstone. The oil had sheared to less than a 20wt.

I then used Amsoil ASE 10w30 for 20 hours and it had become a 20WT.

B&S reecommends using only a synthetic 10w30 so I do...

I had an amsoil Eao-34..on it...great oil filter..but $ 40.00 is too much...no restriction related problems..

I think from my findings and the fact there have been problems with these engines if not "babied"...I have decided to go 10w30 Synthetic and 20 hours...due to shear down.

If it's wasteful then the waste is going to be spending maybe an extra $ 20.00 on oil and filters and not loosing an engine..this is on a very costly Simplicity Tractor and I want 20+ years out of it..

 

[Bror Jace]

Interesting you are getting shearing ... I bet that was a surprise to you, too. I used to get shearing in my Nissan 2.5L in cold weather. It was years ago, but I had Terry Dyson look at the used oil analysis for me ... I'm pretty sure he concluded that a good portion of it was due to fuel ... even though Blackstone said the fuel present was only trace amounts. I don't remember the details ... and Terry asks that his analysis be kept private anyway.

With your carbureted engine, I'd expect this is the case as well. And since you are again starting with a 5w30, I would expect results similar to what you have already experienced. Gonna do a used oil analysis on this stuff as well?

This shearing/fuel dilution is why I use a 15w40 in OPE during the summer and especially in air-cooled engines.

I'd consider a 5W-40 with a good low-pour point. Some are not so great so I'd do a little research before going out and buying the first 5W-40 you come across. If I remember correctly, the new Rotella synthetic is pretty good at low temps and worth a look.

Several years ago I posted a used oil analysis here from Dad's Honda tractor that I used and maintained at the time. I used Schaeffer 15w40 and the result I got (for a 70 hour interval) was very good. The Honda tractor was water cooled so it doesn't run as hot as the air-cooled motors ... but even if it sheared a full grade I'd be right in the heart of 30 weight territory.

So, in warm weather, I'd think you'd get great results from a mineral 15w40 and 20 hour intervals.

Oh, and yeah, skip the looney-tunes $40 filter.

 

[mechjames]

I poured RP 5w30 into my L-Head Briggs Powered Murray push mower a couple years ago. It is used occasionally alongside my older 1990's Ariens.

2 years now on it and the oil still looks purple and new. And the [censored] thing seems quiet and smooth running when the engine's been running for about 10 minutes (after it gets warmed up)

 

[JTK]

Pete's middle name is Overkill

. Those engines will purr like a kitten on RP I'm sure. Like Bror says, if your operating conditions and drain intervals don't warrant it, you're wasting good oil and money running $5/qt+ stuff and super expensive filters.

Joel

 

[Propflux01]

I used it (10w-30) in my Honda-engined Cub Cadet. It ran as well as it did with the OEM oil in it. I noticed no improvement of any kind.

 

[PT1]

I have used Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in my lawnmower...no different than St 30w