Rotor warp: Solid vs. fluted?

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Originally Posted By: HangFire
It has also been my observation that most every brake job in this country is done without the parallelism and on-vehicle runout checks being done. You can easily see this when I ask for as-built runout mesaurements in forums and get zero answers (well I did get one or two recently).

Even rotor manufacturers are pushing that in their literature, not to mention pushing on vehicle lathing.
 
Originally Posted By: Alex_V
Then I'll start charging an extra $50 per axle on brake jobs for the time it takes me to measure and correct all that.
wink.gif


I understand. It's much more profitable to do a full brake job on the come-backs, as long as they don't come back too soon.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Vented. I'm surprised to see solid rotors on an MB, the last other vehicle I saw with solid rotors anywhere was a 79 Mazda. Vented rotors dissipate heat WAY faster (even faster than drilled/slotted solid rotors), and are actually more rigid because the internal vanes lock two external disks together, making a sort of trusswork that is extremely rigid.

FWIW, rotors don't warp, at least not unless you get them INSANELY hot. Like NASCAR at Bristol rotors-glowing-orange-in-the-corners hot.

Most "warped" rotors are perfectly flat, but have unevenly accumulated deposits from the pads outgassing- it usually starts with someone making an aggressive stop and then sitting at a light for a minute or two with the hot pads clamped hard against the hot rotors.

I've had cars that you'd swear the rotors looked like Ruffles potato chips the way the wheel shook when you touched the brakes. One scotch-brite wheel on a die grinder lightly applied to both sides of the rotor while turning the rotor by hand, and then rinsing with Brakeleen... cured. Years ago, I couldn't believe it when I first read that this was the usual cause of "warped" rotors, but after trying simple cleaning and de-glazing a dozen times over the years, I'm 100% convinced. Now, every time I change pads, I de-glaze and rinse the rotors and I've never had the problem since. I'm also a fan of EBC brake pads which come with an abrasive break-in coating that keeps the rotors from glazing as the new pads bed. And they'd probably break the glaze on old rotors without any manual labor, but I always do my manual de-glazing instead.



I apologize.....they were vented.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I can't be bothered taking them a part to do this, I will ride them like this and then just replace them. If it happened with almost new pads then I would for sure but these are almost used up anyway.


This is why good factory rotors get tossed and replaced with Chinese junk with inclusions in the castings. :-/
 
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