Rotella T6

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The engineers specified 5w30 because of the shearing. They knew it would go into a 5w20 range which is acceptable for the engine based on the uoas I've seen.

If they had specified 5w20 combined with these issues then you'd have a problem.

That being said I'd use a euro 0w30 with a higher HTHS before I jumped all the way to a HDEO 5w40. The HTHSV difference is dramatic.


That was my first thought as well.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: gonefishing
Rotella T5 10W-30 might be worth considering. A little heavier then most 30 weight PCMO's but lighter then T6 5W-40.


I will second that it is lighter at pretty much all temperatures. I stuck a quart of T6 and a quart of 10w-30 in the freezer. The quart of 10w-30 poured much easier.

I think once my parents' Ecoboost Escape is out of warranty I'm going to try for T5 or T6 in it.

 

[volk06]

T6 is a great oil. However, I'd just go with german/belgium castrol 0w-30 if available. I'm still debating on the M1 0w-40 vs GC 0w-30 as well. Id love to run the GC but its more expensive and hard to get than the 23.66 5qt jug of 0w-40 at walmart.

I know this video is very scientific but -20f is about the most extreme ambient temps we see and both M1 0w-40 and GC 0w-30 flow very well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvhl3JgYS8A

 

[Fasttimez]

Originally Posted By: badtlc
Don't go cheap. Run premium gas. That is the first step in battling fuel dilution.

I've only ever used 93 octane since I bought it.

 

[Fasttimez]

Originally Posted By: volk06
T6 is a great oil. However, I'd just go with german/belgium castrol 0w-30 if available. I'm still debating on the M1 0w-40 vs GC 0w-30 as well. Id love to run the GC but its more expensive and hard to get than the 23.66 5qt jug of 0w-40 at walmart.

I know this video is very scientific but -20f is about the most extreme ambient temps we see and both M1 0w-40 and GC 0w-30 flow very well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvhl3JgYS8A

I rarely see temps of anything below 20*F in the winter, maybe once every 3-4 years. Average winter temps here hover around 30*F.

 

[Fasttimez]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I would choose M1 0w40 or Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w40 in the Ecoboost over RT6. I don't like RT6 in a turbocharged gasoline engine because of its high dose of Magnesium detergent.
Or if you really want to get fancy, AMSoil HDD or Redline 5w30. They are 5w30's that are at the upper end of the 30 range, and will not shear to a 20.

Magnesium is good for it's anti-corrosion properties as well as being a great dispersant.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: Fasttimez
Hey guys, I've got a couple questions. It's been recommended to me by several people to run Rotella T6 in my EcoBoost F150. It says to use 5W-30, but seeing several UOA's with high fuel dilution & shearing, I'm leaning toward using the 5W-40 T6 oil. The people who recommended the T6 also have turbo, di gas engines. It was put to me that they protect turbo's, handle shearing, fuel dilution & wear protect better because the oil was formulated specifically for turbo diesel engines that generate a lot of fuel dilution. So what are you guys opinions on using Rotella 5W-40 T6 in an EcoBoost F150? Please don't quote me any "warranty will be voided" stuff, I know & understand that, just looking for opinions on using T6 in Turbo DI Gas engines.
Thanks
I'd love to be in on a discussion where someone was told their warranty was void because they used a better oil than specified. I've been running T6 in Toyotas which specify 5W -30 since the oil was first released. One of them is at 325K and still running well. Now, when we get about 5 years of history on how these EcoBoost engines fare with the "factory" oil perhaps you will feel better about using the "factory 5W 30 but until then, with a turbo engine, I would use the T6, especially if you do any towing.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: Fasttimez
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Don't go cheap. Run premium gas. That is the first step in battling fuel dilution.

I've only ever used 93 octane since I bought it.


In which case you probably won't have as much fuel dillution. My parents noticed quite a significant improvement in fuel economy when they switched from 87 to 91. Less fuel burnt means less fuel washing past the rings into the oil.

 

[Pontual]

Yes, Mg is a great detergent that produces a harder ash than calcium and sodium, but only when burnt inside the combustion chambers. In the lubrication system isn't of any problem. If your engine doesn't burn too much oil, mg is what I'd want. Oils are using more Ca, because nowadays thinner oils are consumed/burn much more in combustion chambers.

 

[MrWideTires]

I'd use a synthetic 10w30 (for stability), run it for 6000 miles and do a UOA

If it gets cold where you live, I'd go down to a 0w30 or 5w30 only for winter

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: Fasttimez
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Don't go cheap. Run premium gas. That is the first step in battling fuel dilution.

I've only ever used 93 octane since I bought it.
Paying for 93 doesn't sound real "Eco" to me.

 

[abs]

I've just had my EB engine fail with 100k miles on it and the dealer is installing a reman engine this week. I have a long thread here on the forum talking about it. In summary I had the "rattle on startup" which I now believe was caused by chain/guide wear starting at around 70k miles. Eventually the water pump failed dumping coolant into the oil and damaging the bearings. I ran synthetic 5w-20 since new and maintained the engine carefully with oil changes every 5k miles. I mostly ran Pennzoil Ultra and Platinum. Break in was on Motorcraft semi-syn. One OCI with Castrol Edge and two OCIs with Valvoline full syn.

I can't afford to have to replace this engine a second time so, on the new engine I'll be doing the following:

1. Euro spec oil meeting the very stringent MB/VW/Porsche specs. Most likely Mobil 1 0w-40 or similar.
2. Amsoil Bypass filter to filter oil down to 2 microns.

The goal of both of these steps is to preserve the chain, guides, and tensioner by reducing wear rates.

Looking at the Lubrizol oils comparison chart it's very clear that the API, ILSAC and Ford oil specs are predominately focused on fuel economy and NOT wear prevention.

Chart here:
Link

Also, the Ecoboost DI engines appear to have the fuel dilution, shearing and based on reading I've done, also soot build up issues. Obviously all of these things can accelerate wear in the engine. It's becoming clear that Ford should have spec'd a much heavier duty oil than they did.

 

[Pontual]

Well abs, look like your car was kind of a test bed, though. I mean tough, cough.

 

[threeputtpar]

I would shy away from RT6 in an Ecoboost, as the HTHS is just too high at 4.0 or above. That said, I would suggest an oil with a higher HTHS than the typical 3.0 of most PCMO 5W-30s.

Amsoil's OE and XL 5W-30s have a HTHS of 3.3, which is probably the sweet spot for a turbo, direct injected gasoline engine. If my twin turbo wasn't a Euro engine requiring 3.5 or greater, I would likely be running Amsoil's XL 5W-30.

Another option is Amsoil's HDD 5W-30 with a HTHS of 3.5.

Full disclosure: I have no affiliation with Amsoil whatsoever, they just happen to have a few really good matches for what you're looking for.

 

[tcp71]

Just some info. Apples to oranges comparison, I know, but some similarity here.

I run castrol 0w40 in my 2009 5.4 f150. The reason is not for the cams or bearings, as they're robust and survive fine on 0w20. The reason is for the timing chain, tensioners and phasers, same as your engine. Lighter oil spec'd by ford on these, along with tensioner blowout failures causes the phasers not to lock back into place at idle on low viscosity oil once the engine has aged a bit. Ford calls the noise these unlocked phasers make "normal". They sound like a diesel. They also eventually self destruct and take out the passenger side cam with them. known problem.

In your case, heavier oil might keep the chain from wearing and stretching out.

Castrol and M1 0w40 are on the light end of the 40 weight range. with a bit of dilution, you will be in the 30 weight range. those I would try before the T6.

 

[ccap41]

Alright noob question here.. so please be nice

Why use an oil designed to be run in diesel engines?

I'm asking because I too have an EcoBoost engine(2.0) and would like to know for my own engine's sake.

I guess while I'm at it with the noob questions I'll ask what does HTHS standfor/mean? I read it all the time and I have no clue what it means.

 

[Fasttimez]

Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: Fasttimez
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Don't go cheap. Run premium gas. That is the first step in battling fuel dilution.

I've only ever used 93 octane since I bought it.
Paying for 93 doesn't sound real "Eco" to me.

It cost me only $12 more per fill up to use 93 vs 87....I'm not that broke.

 

[Fasttimez]

Originally Posted By: abs
I've just had my EB engine fail with 100k miles on it and the dealer is installing a reman engine this week. I have a long thread here on the forum talking about it. In summary I had the "rattle on startup" which I now believe was caused by chain/guide wear starting at around 70k miles. Eventually the water pump failed dumping coolant into the oil and damaging the bearings. I ran synthetic 5w-20 since new and maintained the engine carefully with oil changes every 5k miles. I mostly ran Pennzoil Ultra and Platinum. Break in was on Motorcraft semi-syn. One OCI with Castrol Edge and two OCIs with Valvoline full syn.

I can't afford to have to replace this engine a second time so, on the new engine I'll be doing the following:

1. Euro spec oil meeting the very stringent MB/VW/Porsche specs. Most likely Mobil 1 0w-40 or similar.
2. Amsoil Bypass filter to filter oil down to 2 microns.

The goal of both of these steps is to preserve the chain, guides, and tensioner by reducing wear rates.

Looking at the Lubrizol oils comparison chart it's very clear that the API, ILSAC and Ford oil specs are predominately focused on fuel economy and NOT wear prevention.

Chart here:
Link

Also, the Ecoboost DI engines appear to have the fuel dilution, shearing and based on reading I've done, also soot build up issues. Obviously all of these things can accelerate wear in the engine. It's becoming clear that Ford should have spec'd a much heavier duty oil than they did.

I'm sorry to hear of your problems. I bought the new 2.7 V6 EcoBoost & have been very pleased so far in 2K miles, no problems at all, great gas mileage. It's a very different engine from the 3.5 EcoBoost, uses different block material (same as the 6.7 diesel) amongst other things. I'm wondering if Ford has "fixed" a lot of the issues that plagued the 3.5.

 

[il_signore97]

Originally Posted By: abs


I can't afford to have to replace this engine a second time so, on the new engine I'll be doing the following:

1. Euro spec oil meeting the very stringent MB/VW/Porsche specs. Most likely Mobil 1 0w-40 or similar.
2. Amsoil Bypass filter to filter oil down to 2 microns.

The goal of both of these steps is to preserve the chain, guides, and tensioner by reducing wear rates.


I think you're definitely on the right track here... If I had one, I'd use the Euro spec oils (M1 0W40 or Castrol 0W40) as they offer excellent wear protection with certifications to back that claim up, and they are also very economical to purchase (in the US anyway)!

The bypass filter system is also a great addition, as some reading that I've done online has suggested that the soot loading from the DI setup causes hard carbonaceous particles in the oil that very well could affect the wear on components such as the timing chain. Getting them out of circulation is a great idea.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: ccap41
Alright noob question here.. so please be nice

Why use an oil designed to be run in diesel engines?

I'm asking because I too have an EcoBoost engine(2.0) and would like to know for my own engine's sake.

I guess while I'm at it with the noob questions I'll ask what does HTHS standfor/mean? I read it all the time and I have no clue what it means.
T6 indicates on the bottle what uses it qualifies as and that includes a gas engine certification of SM. Does THAT answer your informed question?