Rotella T6 Amazing Cleaning - Before & After Pics

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Not saying that you had an issue (you didn't), but with varnish production, equilibrium in oil, and deposition, the key to removal is really either an electrostatic process, depth media, or new fresh oil and very regular changes (like hundreds of miles, not thousands).

Good data point in the discussion.
 
IMO the 2 1ZZ-FE vvt-i Corollas I had ran the smoothest and quietest on T6 including startup. I was using T6 full strength no blending so it was considered thick by most on BITOG. Whats your opinion on how the engine runs so far?
 
Did you touch any of the deposits with your fingers to see how hard to remove they are? Varnish is very hard to remove and it would not happen in 56 miles.
To me the yellow color looks to be more of the remains of old oil in the before pics that were simply washed away by T6. Maybe some sort of film developed from mixing PU and MMO?
 
To me it looks like pictures of the oil film that is supposed to remain behind when the motor is off. When the oil is dark towards the end of the OCI, the resulting film will be that yellowed color. The new oil, still virtually clear, will have no discernible coloration to the film. The really dark stuff doesn't seem to change from before to after.
 
I'm a big fan of Rotella, at one point I even had it in all four of our vehicles at the same time. But it never seemed to do near the cleaning I was expecting, I was using dino 10w30 though not T6.

Thanks for posting!
 
Shell makes great oil, this is one of the best you can buy IMO. Always a solid performer. Nice results.
 
thanks for posting the pictures-appreciate you running up those 4 stories to capture it on film
A word of caution though--when saving the old oil (as in PU with 2750 miles) be extremely careful in the storage and transfer of it-one or two grains of sand can really make the whole process not worth it from a wear issue. I just don't do it anyomore-I figured I'd rather lose the cost of the oil than introduce wear particles I could/could not see
 
Originally Posted By: Coprolite
To me it looks like pictures of the oil film that is supposed to remain behind when the motor is off. When the oil is dark towards the end of the OCI, the resulting film will be that yellowed color. The new oil, still virtually clear, will have no discernible coloration to the film. The really dark stuff doesn't seem to change from before to after.


+1

The valvetrain was clean already before rotella.
But, I actually believe HDEOs clean better than PCEOs.
 
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012


VVT-i cover plate:
IMG_1004_zpsab049c04.jpg


The locking-pin spring seems to be wearing a groove into the plate:
IMG_1005_zpsd4273bd1.jpg

Look at how deep that is! It seems to function fine, so I'm not gonna worry about it for now.


This is known issue in Toyota's VVT and I used to supplement oils in ZDDP to prevent that issue.

Here is more: http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showpost.php?p=4353791&postcount=68

How did you remove the plate? Did you remove the 4 pentagon screws while gears in situ?
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Did you touch any of the deposits with your fingers to see how hard to remove they are? Varnish is very hard to remove and it would not happen in 56 miles.
To me the yellow color looks to be more of the remains of old oil in the before pics that were simply washed away by T6. Maybe some sort of film developed from mixing PU and MMO?


Some may have been oil film, but last I checked that would wipe away with a cloth or "scrape" off with a fingernail. This stuff did not before and does not now.

If you look at the close-up shot of one of the camshaft clamps, you can see a couple spots of residual varnish, which really gives a better view of what I'm seeing than the before/after shots.
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
thanks for posting the pictures-appreciate you running up those 4 stories to capture it on film
A word of caution though--when saving the old oil (as in PU with 2750 miles) be extremely careful in the storage and transfer of it-one or two grains of sand can really make the whole process not worth it from a wear issue. I just don't do it anyomore-I figured I'd rather lose the cost of the oil than introduce wear particles I could/could not see


Very good points on the reuse. My catch pan actually gets washed after every use; it's one of the sealable pans that you can just take to the parts store for them to drain it for recycling, which is what I usually do, but this time I didn't feel right tossing this oil and I wanted to take a sample for a UOA anyway. On top of that, it was poured through a screened funnel directly into the jug new oil just came out of, and will be poured through that same funnel if it goes back into an engine at any point. Since it takes months for additives to settle out, but only days for contaminants to start settling out, I also plan on giving the bottle a good shake a week or so before using it, to reincorporate the additives, but being very careful not to shake it at all again after that, so some of the particles from my engine can fall out before I put it in another engine. I don't think it matters quite as much as some of us think, with oil filters and everything, but it's still a precaution that doesn't cost anything to take, so why not take it?
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: KeMBro2012


VVT-i cover plate:
IMG_1004_zpsab049c04.jpg


The locking-pin spring seems to be wearing a groove into the plate:
IMG_1005_zpsd4273bd1.jpg

Look at how deep that is! It seems to function fine, so I'm not gonna worry about it for now.


This is known issue in Toyota's VVT and I used to supplement oils in ZDDP to prevent that issue.

Here is more: http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showpost.php?p=4353791&postcount=68

How did you remove the plate? Did you remove the 4 pentagon screws while gears in situ?


Very carefully and with vise-grips. I only needed to crack each one loose; after that, they spun right out by hand. I finger tightened them for reassembly, then snugged them with the vise-grips in a criss-cross pattern like you'd tighten lugnuts; made 2 passes, then hit the freeway and drove it hard. I'm a bit more confident of its performance now that I see the VVT-i gear is actually clean and getting oil (if it wasn't getting oil, it wouldn't be clean!!) which is why I looked.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
IMO the 2 1ZZ-FE vvt-i Corollas I had ran the smoothest and quietest on T6 including startup. I was using T6 full strength no blending so it was considered thick by most on BITOG. Whats your opinion on how the engine runs so far?


It doesn't seem to be running any differently other than the VVT-i tick is actually gone now. I posted previously that it had been cured by PU, but I still had the tick when cold and it had actually only reduced when warm (which I didn't notice until I heard it on T6). It's actually literally gone now, which has revealed a valve tick on the intake side of cyl 3, which I could not previously hear. Clearances check out, so I'm not gonna worry about that; the 99 had it, too, and Royal Purple (which will likely be my next fill in the 2000) shut it right up.
 
Nah, RP is avg at best. Poke around on here, plenty of info. The zinc in T6 is whats killing that tick. RP only has SN zinc levels, weak starting TBN, etc. Stay where you are.
 
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