13 Lacrosse should I use PUP along with RESTORE Engine Restorer?

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Hello guys! I need some advice for my 2013 buick lacrosse (it’s the 2.4 ecotec that’s like a mild hybrid). Please help me out & anybody chime in with their expertise/experience/opinion!

The vehicle has significant compression loss on 2 cylinders…(specifically the compression test reads that cylinder 1 is 160, 2 is 142, 3 is 100 & 4 is 110). The car still runs fine but is obviously on its last legs.

So after scouring the internet…I’ve come across a product called RESTORE Engine Restorer. I have one major concern with this product that I read from a website from the United Kingdom stating:

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“RESTORE is safe to use in standard (mechanical) VVT engines, but we do not recommend using Engine Restorer in engines that utilise high pressure engine oil to actuate or regulate the valve timing functions. These engines that use the engine oil as a hydraulic fluid to adjust cam phasing are referred to often as VVTi (Variable Valve Timing Intelligent) engines, but car manufacturers have their own nomenclature for their VVT systems, like BMW VANOS and dual VANOS, Honda VTEC and iVTEC, Mitsubishi MIVEC, Subaru ACVS and AVLS, Fiat MultiAir, Toyota VVTi etc. They all rely very heavily on clean oil of the correct viscosity to provide adequate oil pressure to control the valve timing. Engine sensors are programmed to detect changes in oil viscosity that might suggest dirt, metal debris or contaminants in the oil that could clog oil-ways, contaminate solenoids and cause valve timing to malfunction. The CSL particles in each can of Engine Restorer would be detected by these sensors, triggering the ECU to show an engine management light and possibly engine codes; the engine will run erratically and stall repeatedly - all warnings to stop the engine immediately and not to drive the car until the oil and filter have been changed to remove the Engine Restorer (or other contaminants), and refilled with the recommended specification of oil for your car

If you want to use RESTORE in a Standard (mechanical) VVT engine, clean the engine well beforehand using a proprietary flushing oil before refilling with fresh oil of the correct specification and fitting a new OEM oil filter. As an extra precaution, you can feed Engine Restorer into these engines slowly over the course of 30 minutes to 1 hour at tick-over to allow the CSL particles to circulate freely without overwhelming the narrow oil passages in these engines. If you are unsure whether your engine uses engine oil as a hydraulic fluid to actuate the VVT, call your main dealer for verification before adding RESTORE”
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That bit of information there has made me a little hesitant & worried to try it out. I’m thinking of draining out my current old oil, put in Pennzoil Platinum with a bottle of Amsoil engine flush & then drain again & fill her up with some conventional oil along with the Engine Restore but very slowly (like 30-60mins as the article says).

What do you folks think I should do? I don’t mind the cost of the Pennzoil & Amsoil because my brother gifts me a ton of those every now & then.

My major concern is if there’s a possibility of doing any irreversible damage instead of good on the buick lacrosse’s ECOTEC VVT engine!? Or is this only a concern to more complex VVT engines like in japanese & German cars?

Please chime in fellas!!!
 
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The vehicle has significant compression loss on 2 cylinders…(specifically the compression test reads that cylinder 1 is 160, 2 is 142, 3 is 100 & 4 is 110). The car still runs fine but is obviously on its last legs.
If it runs fine, why is it obviously on its last legs? I'd just keep on driving as it is.
 

Astro14

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With that compression, it’s on its last legs.

I don’t think Restore will make any difference. I’d save the $20.

An engine rebuild, or a good used engine, will make a difference.

And I would put your $20 towards either of those options, or a new car.

Honestly, I don’t see how anything you pour into an engine will fix low compression, despite the marketing claims.
 
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Do your flush and run 0W40 in it. I had a 2012 Equinox 2.5 and ran Mobil 1 0W40 when we would take it to Florida. Purred like a kitten. Got back home and went back to 5W30 because super short in town trips.
 
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I would put a can of Berrymans Chemtool in the oil and let the engine idle for 15-20 minutes, do not drive the car or rev the engine.
Change the oil and add a bottle of HPL engine cleaner for 3K, change the oil filter at 2K then check the compression, all plugs removed, warm engine and WOT. It may have sticking rings and plenty of varnish which is common on some of these engines. Forget the restore, if it is sticking rings you want to free them not try and plug them up even more.
If that doesnt help you probably need a used engine or a rebuild or top end job, whatever is causing the low compression.


 

M2Bradley

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Do your flush and run 0W40 in it. I had a 2012 Equinox 2.5 and ran Mobil 1 0W40 when we would take it to Florida. Purred like a kitten. Got back home and went back to 5W30 because super short in town trips.
I live in Florida & drive the car around town (short trips)…do you think that Mobil 1 0W40 will be safe for my car? I ask this because it states in my owners manual to use 5W30.
 

M2Bradley

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I would put a can of Berrymans Chemtool in the oil and let the engine idle for 15-20 minutes, do not drive the car or rev the engine.
Change the oil and add a bottle of HPL engine cleaner for 3K, change the oil filter at 2K then check the compression, all plugs removed, warm engine and WOT. It may have sticking rings and plenty of varnish which is common on some of these engines. Forget the restore, if it is sticking rings you want to free them not try and plug them up even more.
If that doesnt help you probably need a used engine or a rebuild or top end job, whatever is causing the low compression.


Is the Berrymans Chemtool superior to the Amsoil flush or BG EPR (Engine Performance Restoration) treatment?
 

M2Bradley

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With that compression, it’s on its last legs.

I don’t think Restore will make any difference. I’d save the $20.

An engine rebuild, or a good used engine, will make a difference.

And I would put your $20 towards either of those options, or a new car.

Honestly, I don’t see how anything you pour into an engine will fix low compression, despite the marketing claims.
Thanks for your feedback! I already have another vehicle that’s my dd but I’m just looking to extend this one’s life as much as possible.
 
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Hi, due to the severe differences in compression (of cylinders 3 & 4).
You could go another 5,000 miles or another 50,000 miles like that. Who knows. At least it's not like 50 psi. I think the minimum spec is 100 psi. Sure, the difference between high and low is great, but like you said, it runs fine. As long as it's not a blown head gasket, I'd just keep driving it. Maybe try some cleaners mentioned. You don't say the miles but that would be an important benchmark.
 
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Is the Berrymans Chemtool superior to the Amsoil flush or BG EPR (Engine Performance Restoration) treatment?
For removing varnish yes it is and it is much cheaper too. The engine may or may not be on its last legs, these ecotec engines sometimes have varnish issues especially if used with longer OCI and conventional oils. Use the Berrymans at idle only starting with a cold engine.
 
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couldn't hurt the vvt system the particles are very small in size it's unlikely it would interfere with anything. Give it a shot see what happens. Doubt it'll be a waste. I think Walmart sells it for less than auto stores.
 
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1649637043942.jpg
 

M2Bradley

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You could go another 5,000 miles or another 50,000 miles like that. Who knows. At least it's not like 50 psi. I think the minimum spec is 100 psi. Sure, the difference between high and low is great, but like you said, it runs fine. As long as it's not a blown head gasket, I'd just keep driving it. Maybe try some cleaners mentioned. You don't say the miles but that would be an important benchmark.
The car has 217,000 miles on it. Do you have a particular cleaner in mind that you’ve heard of? Ones that yields good results with an engine like the ECOTEC which is prone to gumming up?
 

M2Bradley

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couldn't hurt the vvt system the particles are very small in size it's unlikely it would interfere with anything. Give it a shot see what happens. Doubt it'll be a waste. I think Walmart sells it for less than auto stores.
I got it for very cheap on eBay, that’s why I’m considering using the Restore engine additive. My brother tells me to try signature series by Amsoil in it. He tells me it’ll clean it up but I don’t know if that’s possible with all the mileage it has.
 

M2Bradley

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For removing varnish yes it is and it is much cheaper too. The engine may or may not be on its last legs, these ecotec engines sometimes have varnish issues especially if used with longer OCI and conventional oils. Use the Berrymans at idle only starting with a cold engine.
The previous owner used to do 12000 miles OCI with Mobil 1 but when I saw the oil filter he used (framm tough) I was appalled. I can’t believe he wasn’t using a superior filter like Wix xp, Amsoil ea or Mobil 1’s best filter….especially with the OCI he was doing!
 
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I would def say NO to the engine restore. It is great stuff and I have seen it work wonders before, but that was on old, carbureted, seriously trashed engines, like junkyard trashed. I don't see it working with VVT of any kind, it will just plug instantly, the stuff looks like glitter with the huge metal pieces in it.

What I would agree with is a flush with Berryman's but follow Trav's instructions perfectly, cold engine, only at idle, no revving, not driven. I would also suggest the Mobil1 0w40, it is just one of the best oils you can buy as far as trying to clean things up. For the same price as anything else on the shelf, you just can't beat it. Don't worry about the viscosity, it is barely thicker than a 30 weight and will do absolutely no harm. It just has a ton more detergents in it than any of the other off the shelf oils and can free up and clean the entire engine. If it doesn't fix anything? Oh well, you tried. But it def won't hurt anything for sure and costs the same as any other Mobil1.

For Florida weather I would probably use 0w40 in all of my vehicles if I lived there.
 
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