Rotella T vs Delvac

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I recently picked up an 83 Honda CB750SC, 750 cc inline 4 cyl, air cooled, shared sump with a wet clutch. The owner’s manual specs 10w40. From my research here running a 15w40 diesel rated oil would be a good choice for my application. Between Rotella T and Delvac, both of which are easily obtainable to me, which would be the better choice?
 
I'd skip these two and use Mobil 1 15-50 instead. I am using it in my Honda 600 and it is working well. Leave the tractor oils on the shelf.
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I've ran various 15w-40's in a CB450F and a CB750 with great results.

With that said though, I'll have to agree with Chris...if you want to best protection/performance in a widely available oil, I'd go with M1 15w-50.

The only problem with M1 is leaking issues you might encounter. Depending on what oil you've been previously running, and what condition the engine is in, you could quite possibly experience a great deal of seal seepage.

Given the age of this engine, and my own personal experience, I'd definitely start out with a top-quality 15w-40 and run it for at least one riding season. If everything works out alright, make the switch to M1.
 
If your determined to use either of those 15-40's, I would go with the delvac over the rotella, but my personal choice is Pennzoil LL 15w-40. better than the other 2, and available, also.
 
I'm running Rotella T 5W40 in my TL1000S and have run Rotella T 15W40 and M1 15W50 in the past. All seemed to work great and provided good shifting. A buddy on mine uses Delvac 1300 in his Buell and swears by the stuff.

Between the Rotella T and Delvac 1300 I'd pick the Rotella T. Just because I have used it and liked it.
 
Thanks for all of your opinions. I'm going to run Rotella T this year and next year evaluate the possibility of running a synthetic.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Carlton:
Thanks for all of your opinions. I'm going to run Rotella T this year and next year evaluate the possibility of running a synthetic.

I worked on quite a few of these engines over the years and they're a model of reliability. I think you're wise to use one of the 40 weights here. They're a close clearance engine and I think you'll find running a 50 weight will do little more for you than raise your oil temperature...
 
I have been using delvac 1300 in my honda929 for over a year now with 2500 mi oci.
I continue to use and oem filter.
This bike is used for canyon carving, stunting and daily commutter, this oil is good and durable.
I will stack up this 15/40 to hondas gn4 20/50 anytime.
The reason i dont unse synthetics is because i dont leave the oil in long enough and my temp guage reads 178-184 on freeway riding in hot temp, and 195-220 in stop and go city traffic out here on the cali freeways, lane splitting keeps the coolant cuirculating enought that the coolant fan hardly ever come on.
 
I have been running the delvac 1300S the last 8 month's in my tranny side 03 KX250 changing every 2 rides,heavy sand riding mx only. I split the cases, motor was do for a crank,the tranny was really clean and I do mean clean.Oil was sticking everywhere nice honey color. The shift forks had no shine marks whatsoever,the crosshatch marks on the shift forks looked new,infact if I had new shift forks and put them next to mine,you could not tell the difference.The dogs looked beautiful.The steel plates had some bluing on them,(sand riding)but the steel and fibers measured well within spec.The clutch basket did have some slight notching (normal),center hub no notching.Remind you this is the original basket and plates I am talking about, and I am not a weekend warrior. 5.88 A GALLON I will put this oil against most motorcycle specific oil's and it is 1/4 the price.
 
I'd run the Rotella T 15w40 if I didn't plan to put lots of miles on the bike in the season. This is what I used exclusively in my '86 Yamaha FJ1200 and it went 90,000 km before I sold it to a friend. I tore the engine down at 86,000 km's to replace second gear and the bearings looked ever so slightly worn, but generally in really excellent shape....especially for that mileage.

I'd run the M1 15w50 if I was going to put alot of miles on it in a season.

My Triumph Sprint ST calls for a 6000 mile OCI with a synthetic or semi-synth. I wouldn't go that long even on a synthetic for a bike with a wet clutch.

Motorcycle specific oils are just more expensive, not better.

Check out this site for some recommendations:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil

Enjoy your bike and be safe!
 
Jelly said it well.

There's a guy on a CBR1000 forum that I frequent that works for SWRI (an independent oil testing facility) that loves Delo 400 and Rotella T for bikes...His personal favorite is the Mobile 1 15W50 but like Jelly said it might be a good idea to go with a 15W40 HD oil first.
 
+1 for Rotella T 15W40. It makes my all my bikes shift very smoothly and for $1.89 qt you can't beat it. I change it every 1,500-2,000 miles. If was going to longer OCIs I'd switch to Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5W-40.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jim 5:
I'd run the Rotella T 15w40 if I didn't plan to put lots of miles on the bike in the season. This is what I used exclusively in my '86 Yamaha FJ1200 and it went 90,000 km before I sold it to a friend. I tore the engine down at 86,000 km's to replace second gear and the bearings looked ever so slightly worn, but generally in really excellent shape....especially for that mileage.

I'd run the M1 15w50 if I was going to put alot of miles on it in a season.

My Triumph Sprint ST calls for a 6000 mile OCI with a synthetic or semi-synth. I wouldn't go that long even on a synthetic for a bike with a wet clutch.

Motorcycle specific oils are just more expensive, not better.

Check out this site for some recommendations:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil

Enjoy your bike and be safe!


This makes me doubt the rest of his "advice"

The oil fill is the obvious plastic knob right there. You will need a foot long funnel. Pour in 1 gallon and forget about measuring - this is correct.
 
Yes, that is usually correct. The person who wrote it also owns an St1300, which is specifically what the oil chnage article is about.

Also read down a bit further about how to check the oil level. The article does mention most dealers overfill.
 
Hey, guys, lots of good info here. Thanks in advance for the input.

I have a 2000 Kawasaki KLR 250 with about 2800 miles that's ridden mostly on the street with lots of short trips. It's been well-maintained and runs great. I drive conservatively, no over revving, etc.

15w oils seem to be popular for bikes here, but, the Kawasaki manual indicates "SAE 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, or 20W50.

Why isn't anyone discussing 10W oils here? Kawa engineers seem to like them. And, I'm very reluctant to use anything else.

--Mark in VA
 
IMHO most 15W40's are smack in the middle of 10W40 and 20W40 that most engr's like so what can it hurt? A 15W40 should sheer less than a 10W40 and maby sheer more than a 20W40, in most cases. I think the additve package of a 15W40 is well rounded for most of my engines so I buy it in 1 gal bottles. My $0.02 worth. DaveJ
 
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