Rotella 15w40 T4 & T6 in Motorcycles

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Do you think 30 flows any faster through a pressurized oiling system than a 40 when a PD oil pump (not in pressure relief) is forcing the oil through the system? If so, explain how.
We know oils are graded on flow... not thickness nor weight... so yes a 30 is quicker than a 40...
 

ZeeOSix

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Oils are graded on flow not the notion of separation...
I wasn't really talking about "grade". You do understand that the film thickness separation separation between parts is a direct function of viscosity (ie, "grade") - ?. Do you think all "grades" (viscosity) gives the same oil film thickness between moving parts and the same protection from wear and damage?
 
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Do you think all "grades" (viscosity) gives the same oil film thickness between moving parts and the same protection from wear and damage?
Blackstone's 35 years worth of racing and street motorcycle oil
analysis shows no significant differences in WEAR between the grades
or brands... in other words either a 30... 40... or 50 grade oil will meet
and exceed your mileage expectations... what is significant between the
grades is HP and Temps from unnecessary oil drag...

The Importance of Viscosity?
Quote Blackstone Labs

"The viscosity, or thickness of the oil, is not nearly as important
as many people think. Oil retains its nature no matter what thickness
it is.Think about this: automakers are continually recommending
lighter multi-grade oil in new engines. The reason is increased
efficiency. It takes power to pump oil through an engine, and the
lighter the oil, the less power required to pump it. The oil’s ability
to act like a solid and protect parts is not related to its thickness.
If that doesn’t sound quite right, consider this: The gears in a
heavy duty Allison automatic transmission are doing the same work as
the same machine equipped with an Eaton manual transmission. Due to
the hydraulics of the automatic, it runs on a 10W automatic
transmission oil.But the manual transmission uses a very thick
(sometimes up to 90W)gear lube oil. The gears of both types of
transmissions will have a similar life span. We don’t find any
significant differences in wear, regardless of oil thickness."
 

ZeeOSix

$100 site donor 2022
Joined
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Blackstone's 35 years worth of racing and street motorcycle oil
analysis shows no significant differences in WEAR between the grades
or brands... in other words either a 30... 40... or 50 grade oil will meet
and exceed your mileage expectations... what is significant between the
grades is HP and Temps from unnecessary oil drag...

The Importance of Viscosity?
Quote Blackstone Labs

"The viscosity, or thickness of the oil, is not nearly as important
as many people think. Oil retains its nature no matter what thickness
it is.Think about this: automakers are continually recommending
lighter multi-grade oil in new engines. The reason is increased
efficiency. It takes power to pump oil through an engine, and the
lighter the oil, the less power required to pump it. The oil’s ability
to act like a solid and protect parts is not related to its thickness.
If that doesn’t sound quite right, consider this: The gears in a
heavy duty Allison automatic transmission are doing the same work as
the same machine equipped with an Eaton manual transmission. Due to
the hydraulics of the automatic, it runs on a 10W automatic
transmission oil.But the manual transmission uses a very thick
(sometimes up to 90W)gear lube oil. The gears of both types of
transmissions will have a similar life span. We don’t find any
significant differences in wear, regardless of oil thickness."

^^^ ... ⬇️

Broken Record-2.gif


UOAs don't tell the whole story ... that's been discussed many times in the other forums, which seems that you never really explore. I'll use what the manual specs, never ever will I use a viscosity that is lower than what the manual calls out, and have used thicker oil than what the manual calls out on some vehicles. Because MOFT matters. :)
 
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I agree... follow the grades listed in the manual...
Hi, Long time since Ive been here fellas!
So to kind of drag this thread back to topic, Shell T6 is good stuff, great additive pkg & I will try it in both my bike & my 170K mile HHR wagon.
My like-new 2015 XVS950 Bolt-R (purchased 10/21 w/ 89 miles on the clock) is approaching the end of it's 600 mile break-in period. Ive been researching the forums for advice on low cost/bang/buck synthetic oils & cross-refernced filters. Oil filters continue to change as we speak; like recent cut-opens reveal the FRAM Ultra has omitted the wire screen media backing. Not good. Other forums show the only-at-Advance Auto FRAM Titanium may still have wire mesh backed media, but @$15 for the Ti, might as well get a proper K&N, & speculation is Fram will dump it's wire mesh media backing too.
For years Shell T6 has been reported in many biker forums as used in many Japanese bikes, notably hi-mile Jap touring rigs. Also in conjunction w/ cheaper/better constructed high end auto filters and non-bike synthetics, (w/ lots of discord among bike-only purists) there is good evidence for going that route.
Now T6 is almost nonexistent here, but found & bought 2 of 3 jugs of the last 3 T6 5W-40 @ a suburban Oreilly's Auto.
The 950 Bolt owners manual shows an ambient temp oil range chart for the bike w/ 10W-40 in the middle, 20w-50 being the high temp end, & it needs 4.2 qts (4L)
So being the tight wad I am considering 1st oil change.
Lots of bikes run straight 5W-40 T6 as winter oil. However if one was wanting to run 10W-40 (T6 in 10W-40 is not made)
Here's my low cost proposed witches brew to get back to a 10W-40 synthetic;
2qts of 5w-40 T6 + 1qt 10W-40 Super Tech Motorcycle + 1qt 20W-50 Super Tech Moto [5+5+10+20= 40] 40/4 = 10W (?)
Filter: Purolator PBL 14612, & watchful of possible improper tightening interference probs
I'm still shopping/researching filters but have a Purolator Boss

Also wondering if 950 Bolt filter might work on my PC800 both are M20 X 1.5 threads the Bolt is 69mm dia vs 66mm.
will have to try it on for size...

Fellas, please feel free to question my sanity
 
Last edited:
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^ Don't bother with a Frankenbrew / guesstimate hoping to achieve 10w40 viscosity. You'd be better off mixing equal quantities of T4 15w40 and T6 5w40, which will actually produce a 10w40. Or just pay a few extra dollars for a proper 10w40 motorcycle oil. In your shoes, I would run the T6 5w40 straight and be done with it.
 
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