Rotella 15w40 T4 & T6 in Motorcycles

[Mackelroy]

I think Honda converted to 10w30 in the last 10 years, for econmy purposes, not because 10w30 is best for you motor.

BTW the 5w40 t6 is really a High 30 weight , or will be within 100 miles of installing it, so its as good as or better than a 10w30 to me.

 

[stu72762]

I think Honda converted to 10w30 in the last 10 years, for econmy purposes, not because 10w30 is best for you motor.

BTW the 5w40 t6 is really a High 30 weight , or will be within 100 miles of installing it, so its as good as or better than a 10w30 to me.

I'm starting to think along those lines myself...looking for a low viscosity 40 weight to use in changing oil in my VW TDI...instead of a 5w30...a 5w40...like T6.

 

[Jay Freddy]

FWIW, I ended up going with T5 10w30 in my CB1100 and Im very happy with it.

I tried the T6 15w40 for a season and it was too thick for the CB1100, it caused valve ticking. After draining and going to the T5 10w30, the valve ticking is gone.

Apparently the CB1100 has very fine ducts in its oil cooler that require a thinner oil. So it's not just a marketing ploy to improve gas mileage and wear out the engine faster.

I was hesitant to try an oil that didn't have the JASO MA letters on the bottle, but the virgin oil analysis posted elsewhere on this forum show that the T5 is for all practical purposes and intents, a very high quality motorcycle oil.

What's actually in the bottle is far more important than what's written on the outside of the bottle.

If you have a bike that calls for 10w30, the Rotella T5 is an excellent choice.

 

[Jay Freddy]

Ps. I went back to T4 15w40 in my VT750s as well. The T6 15W40 was ok, but sometimes the bike woukd drop out of gear and the gears felt really "slushy", ie., as though the springs in the clutch were loose.

When I went back to the T4 15w40, that loose slushy feeling went away immediately. I suspect that my VT750s just prefer Dino-juice over synthetic.

 

[RDY4WAR]

A Suzuki drag bike team near me was running Rotella T4 15W-40 because it was cheap and JASO approved. They were getting valvetrain noise at the end of a run and some excessive valve and guide wear. On the dyno, they happened to look in the sight glass after a pull and saw a lot of foam. They switched to Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 and the foam in the sight glass subsided along with the valvetrain noise. I think they ended up running Amsoil, but I haven't followed them in a while.

I imagine a casual cruiser V-twin turning 6000 rpm at most isn't as affected.

 

[Jay Freddy]

A Suzuki drag bike team near me was running Rotella T4 15W-40 because it was cheap and JASO approved. They were getting valvetrain noise at the end of a run and some excessive valve and guide wear. On the dyno, they happened to look in the sight glass after a pull and saw a lot of foam. They switched to Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 and the foam in the sight glass subsided along with the valvetrain noise. I think they ended up running Amsoil, but I haven't followed them in a while.

I imagine a casual cruiser V-twin turning 6000 rpm at most isn't as affected.

Sounds believable.

A lot of people seem to treat Rotella 15w40 like it's a magic bullet, where one size fits all.

It's not, but it does work well in a large number of popular motorcycles.

Different bikes and different applications have different needs.

Having JASO MA2 letters on the bottle is no guarantee that a specific brand or weight will meet those needs.

Not having those letters on the bottle isn't proof that a motor oil won't work well in a motorcycle either.

What's in the bottle is ultimately more important than what's written on it... But we hope there's at least a correlation!

I've tried several other more expensive motor oils in my VT750s, but in my experience, none worked as well as the Rotella T4 15w40.

That was not the case in my CB1100.

My CB1100 is running very well with T5 10w30, which does not have the JASO MA2 letters on the bottle.

Apparently, the weight of the oil is at least as important as the brand or the additive package.

 

[RDY4WAR]

Viscosity has an impact on the friction coefficient in the elastohydrodynamic lubrication regime so I could see a higher or lower viscosity affecting wet clutch engagement much in the same way different base oils (of the same viscosity) can affect it.

JASO MA2 isn't anything special itself. The spec allows up to 50 ml of foam with up to 10 minutes settle time in D892 which is atrocious. It also allows 15% Noack, an HTHS of just 2.9 cP (regardless of grade), and the oil can shear out of grade in D5800 and still pass. It's likely T5 and T6 can meet JASO, Shell likely just doesn't want to pay the cert fee for it.

 

[BigCahuna]

Sounds believable.

A lot of people seem to treat Rotella 15w40 like it's a magic bullet, where one size fits all.

It's not, but it does work well in a large number of popular motorcycles.

Different bikes and different applications have different needs.

Having JASO MA2 letters on the bottle is no guarantee that a specific brand or weight will meet those needs.

Not having those letters on the bottle isn't proof that a motor oil won't work well in a motorcycle either.

What's in the bottle is ultimately more important than what's written on it... But we hope there's at least a correlation!

I've tried several other more expensive motor oils in my VT750s, but in my experience, none worked as well as the Rotella T4 15w40.

That was not the case in my CB1100.

My CB1100 is running very well with T5 10w30, which does not have the JASO MA2 letters on the bottle.

Apparently, the weight of the oil is at least as important as the brand or the additive package.

Does the T-5 10w30 have a API rating on the bottle ?.,,,

 

[Jay Freddy]

Does the T-5 10w30 have a API rating on the bottle ?.,,,

From the Shell website: "It is suitable for use in all on or off highway engines requiring an API CK-4, CJ-4, CI-4 or CH-4 diesel oil in this viscosity grade."

Rotella T5 10w30 VOA courtesy HDoilDude and Blackstone Labs.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

We say oil are graded on thickness but oils are actually graded on
flow... a 30 flows faster with less energy than a 40 which means a 30
will increase horsepower and decrease operating temps with no loss in
longevity...

Blackstone's 35 years worth of racing and street motorcycle oil
analysis shows no significant differences in WEAR between the
grades... in other words either your 40 grade or a 30 grade will meet
and exceed your mileage expectations... what is significant between 40
& 30 grades is the amount of 40 grades unwanted oil drag...

Oil drag cost HP...

 

[ZeeOSix]

We say oil are graded on thickness but oils are actually graded on flow...a 30 flows faster with less energy than a 40 ...

Yes, semantics. The viscosity (ie, the "thickness" of the oil) is what causes the oil to flow slower or faster in the kinematic viscosity bench test. A "thicker" (higher viscosity) oil will always flow slower under the force of gravity. Oil grade actually is based on the viscosity ("thickness") of the oil. The test method is just one way to measure the viscosity.

 

[Merek]

The Mobil 1 really is about the best you can get, I cannot speak for all of the boutique oils that are out there but it works great and is easy to find just about anywhere. I know a lot of people are on the Rotella bandwagon but personally I never suggest it, actual motorcycle oil isn't that hard to find nor is the cost significantly that much greater either. I've also heard and seen reports of Rotella foaming in motorcycles and that it shears fast.

Honestly I'd rather just spend the money and buy an actual motorcycle oil with the specifications that my bike needs.

 

[Jay Freddy]

The Mobil 1 really is about the best you can get, I cannot speak for all of the boutique oils that are out there but it works great and is easy to find just about anywhere. I know a lot of people are on the Rotella bandwagon but personally I never suggest it, actual motorcycle oil isn't that hard to find nor is the cost significantly that much greater either. I've also heard and seen reports of Rotella foaming in motorcycles and that it shears fast.

Honestly I'd rather just spend the money and buy an actual motorcycle oil with the specifications that my bike needs.

Man has nothing to fear but fear itself.

So far the only knocks on Rotella are coming from people who "heard from a friend" or "knew a guy"... And your testimony is just continuing that trend.

I've been using Rotella in motorcycles since 1998, long before any of them were JASO MA rated. No oil related problems to report.

Putting 15w40 in an engine designed for 10w30 might not be the best idea, but that has nothing to do with the brand.

I admit that 1100 ppm of zinc might be a little high for a bike with a catalytic converter, but then so would 880 ppm, which is the number Ive seen for the Honda Gn4.

Better a "Rotella Bandwagon" than "Fear and Ignorance".

 

[Merek]

Man has nothing to fear but fear itself.

So far the only knocks on Rotella are coming from people who "heard from a friend" or "knew a guy"... And your testimony is just continuing that trend.

I've been using Rotella in motorcycles since 1998, long before any of them were JASO MA rated. No oil related problems to report.

Putting 15w40 in an engine designed for 10w30 might not be the best idea, but that has nothing to do with the brand.

I admit that 1100 ppm of zinc might be a little high for a bike with a catalytic converter, but then so would 880 ppm, which is the number Ive seen for the Honda Gn4.

Better a "Rotella Bandwagon" than "Fear and Ignorance".

I'm not trying to rock the Rotella boat if it works great for you then by all means use it, in the end it's your money and bike so if you feel that it works out for you then do it. I'm sorry that I should've stated that I've never used the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil so I cannot speak from personal experience, right now I am using the Valvoline synthetic 10w40 motorcycle oil and it's been great for me and is a bit cheaper than the Mobil 1. I'm good for awhile as I have this and a bunch of Castrol stocked up but found that the Valvoline is only stocked by certain Walmart stores in my area but all carry the Mobil 1. I haven't used the Castrol yet but got it on clearance from the parts stores.

 

[Randol]

Been using Rotella now for about 15 years, Iv'e tried them all, mostly in 4 Cyl Japanese bikes that call for 40W oil. My least favorite was the 5W-40. It seemed the shift quality went down pretty fast, due to shearing I assume. I now run the different flavors of 15W-40 in my old Suzuki and my Z900RS.

 

[HangFire]

I think Honda converted to 10w30 in the last 10 years, for econmy purposes, not because 10w30 is best for you motor.

BTW the 5w40 t6 is really a High 30 weight , or will be within 100 miles of installing it, so its as good as or better than a 10w30 to me.

I think it's because most bikes are now water cooled, and oils have improved to the point that even the few remaining air cooled engines run fine on 30W.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

I think it's because most bikes are now water cooled, and oils have improved to the point that even the few remaining air cooled engines run fine on 30W.

My friend Dr.Dave noted that his air cooled bike ran fine on 30 grade...

Quote BITOG DrDave
"My old Harley really liked 10w-30 Amsoil. These was a significant
reduction in wear metals going from 15-40 to 10-30. There were no
consumption issues. It certainly started easier. By easier I mean it
spun over much faster. The motor seemed quieter, and Harley's need all
the help they can get in that department."

I've been running 30 grade auto M1 since 98 in my water cooled RC45...

Blackstone's 35 years worth of racing and street motorcycle oil
analysis shows no significant differences in WEAR between the
grades... in other words either a 30 grade or a 40 grade oil will
meet and exceed your mileage expectations just fine...

A few Motorcycle manuals that mention running 30 grade oils... remember oils are graded on flow not thickness...

 

[ZeeOSix]

A few Motorcycle manuals that mention running 30 grade oils... remember oils are graded on flow not thickness...

They actually are, because kinematic flow is directly proportional to the oil's "thickness" (aka, the kinematic "viscosity" in cSt units). Show me an oil that is more viscous ("thicker") that has a faster kinematic flow at 100C than an oil that is less viscous ("thinner") ... you won't ever find that because it's impossible.

 

[RevRider]

I have Rotella T6 15/40 in my 2001 Honda Valkyrie now, about 500 miles on the oil, and I have to say that this oil is very nice for shifting. The Valk isn’t the smoothest shifting motorcycle, but this oil really works well in the gears.

Just my 2 cents.

RevRider

 

[853okg]

The Mobil 1 really is about the best you can get, I cannot speak for all of the boutique oils that are out there but it works great and is easy to find just about anywhere. I know a lot of people are on the Rotella bandwagon but personally I never suggest it, actual motorcycle oil isn't that hard to find nor is the cost significantly that much greater either. I've also heard and seen reports of Rotella foaming in motorcycles and that it shears fast.

Honestly I'd rather just spend the money and buy an actual motorcycle oil with the specifications that my bike needs.

This is how I feel. Plus, Rotella always sounds like pasta to me.