Rotella 15w40 T4 & T6 in Motorcycles

Been using Rotella now for about 15 years, Iv'e tried them all, mostly in 4 Cyl Japanese bikes that call for 40W oil. My least favorite was the 5W-40. It seemed the shift quality went down pretty fast, due to shearing I assume. I now run the different flavors of 15W-40 in my old Suzuki and my Z900RS.
I had the same experience with Rotella T6 5W-40. Shift quality went downhill fast and by 2000 miles it was really clunky and notchy. I switched back to regular 4T motorcycle oil. Haven't tried the Rotella 15W-40.
 
I found a Youtube VOA comparison video on the Rotellas, I was going to try using the T5 15w40 Syn Blend in my 2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 liquid cooled until I saw the Moly count on the T5 Blend in the comparison vid, the moly count scared me a bit so I'm staying with T4 15w40 conventional, not going to risk clutch slippage. Years ago I did try T6 5w40 on my 2004 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 liquid but I didn't like the shifting feel using T6 5w40 so drained it after 300km. I'm happier using T4 15w40 in my Yamaha 125cc scooter also, 140cc push lawn mower got the T4 15w40 also. That higher moly count on the T5 15w40 Syn Blend in that video comparison in my opinion is probably why Shell didn't label the T5 jug with JASO MA/MA2 as they did on the T4 15w40 jug.


Wouldn't you want the higher moly count in the T5 for your Yamaha 125cc scooter and 140cc push mower that lack the shared wet clutch found in motorcycles specced for JASO MA/MA2? That's with me assuming that your scooter does use a dry CVT of course, as most 150cc and under scooters do.
 
Wouldn't you want the higher moly count in the T5 for your Yamaha 125cc scooter and 140cc push mower that lack the shared wet clutch found in motorcycles specced for JASO MA/MA2? That's with me assuming that your scooter does use a dry CVT of course, as most 150cc and under scooters do.
The Blackstone T5 VOA shows virtually no molybdenum.

From what I understand, Shell uses the same add pack for all their Rotella oils, so a spike in moly on one flavor in one tesis such as that video is likely an error in testing or sampling, and not necessarily an actual increase in moly.

Also, as of June 2023, new bottles of T5 10w30 now bear the JASO MA MA2 label. The formula hasn't changed, Shell just decided to include the letters on the bottle.
 
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I might think about the T6 5w40 in the cold weather because motorcycle batteries are not known for their overwhelming capacity and I notice slow cranks running 15w40 in the late fall. Shearing should not be a problem if Honda is calling for a 30, the 40 will just shear down to a 30 after 1k or so. All this said I would not run a 5w40 or a 10w30 in an air cooled bike in Dallas in the summer. As long as your moving along they might be ok but if you get stuck in traffic I would want that 15w40.
15W40 and 5W40 have the same hot engine (100C/212F) oil viscosity specification (40) so there is no difference in them if you get stuck in traffic on a hot day. The "W" viscosity rating is at 0 F, which I don't think you'll be encountering in the summer in Dallas.
 
15W40 and 5W40 have the same hot engine (100C/212F) oil viscosity specification (40) so there is no difference in them if you get stuck in traffic on a hot day. The "W" viscosity rating is at 0 F, which I don't think you'll be encountering in the summer in Dallas.
Im certainly no expert, but my understanding is that, the wider the spread between the Winter rating (W) and the hot rating, the more they rely on viscosity index improvers, or "VII", to achieve those numbers. As oil wears, the VII will break down before the base oil, meaning that a 5w40 in a shared sump motorcycle will act more like a 5w30 after a certain distance, usually less than the manufacturer recommended OCI. So to say there is "no difference" isn't entirely accurate. If a bike is spec'd for 5w30 its probably fine, but if you're actually aiming at 10w40, the 5w40 might not be the best choice.
 
Im certainly no expert, but my understanding is that, the wider the spread between the Winter rating (W) and the hot rating, the more they rely on viscosity index improvers, or "VII", to achieve those numbers. As oil wears, the VII will break down before the base oil, meaning that a 5w40 in a shared sump motorcycle will act more like a 5w30 after a certain distance, usually less than the manufacturer recommended OCI. So to say there is "no difference" isn't entirely accurate. If a bike is spec'd for 5w30 its probably fine, but if you're actually aiming at 10w40, the 5w40 might not be the best choice.
That's why about every motorcycle manual I've seen always specifies a 10W-xx, 15W-xx or 20W-xx motor oil. Never see a 0W-xx or 5W-xx in the OMs.

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Im certainly no expert, but my understanding is that, the wider the spread between the Winter rating (W) and the hot rating, the more they rely on viscosity index improvers, or "VII", to achieve those numbers. As oil wears, the VII will break down before the base oil, meaning that a 5w40 in a shared sump motorcycle will act more like a 5w30 after a certain distance, usually less than the manufacturer recommended OCI. So to say there is "no difference" isn't entirely accurate. If a bike is spec'd for 5w30 its probably fine, but if you're actually aiming at 10w40, the 5w40 might not be the best choice.
The more synthetic oils rely on the properties of their better lubricants, which are thinner when cold than conventional petroleum oils, and thicker when hot than conventional oils.

The more conventional oils rely on more VII additives.

Sorting out which is which is a consumer nightmare, since in the USA the definition of "synthetic" got muddled by Castrol.
 
If your bike calls for 10w30..... It will love T6, 5w40..... Cause it will shear to a 30wt in a shared sump rather quickly.


...........
New oil word... Shart.

Eg., "If your bike calls for 10w30..... It will love T6, 5w40..... Cause it will shart to a 30wt in a shared sump rather quickly.

🤣🌹🥸
 
Also, as of June 2023, new bottles of T5 10w30 now bear the JASO MA MA2 label. The formula hasn't changed, Shell just decided to include the letters on the bottle.
Wait, it has the actual JASO logo showing compliance? Or just the same old reference (suitable for)?
 
Wait, it has the actual JASO logo showing compliance? Or just the same old reference (suitable for)?

It's not registered with JASO. Shell just decided to put the letters on the bottle. Ironically, Shell recently stopped putting the JASO MA letters on the T6 variants, but instead have a lil graphic of a motorcycle on the bottle.

The truth is Rotella is older than JASO. And people have been using it in motorcycles long before JASO even existed. JASO MA is helpful, but it's not definitive, the way I originally thought.

In fact, apparently even Honda's standard GN4 motorcycle oil is not actually registered with JASO, they just claim to meet the spec and put the letters on the bottle, the same as Shell. 💡
 
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We know oils are graded on flow... not thickness nor weight... so yes a 30 is quicker than a 40...
Reviewing this thread and wanted to expand a bit on this.

A 30 is not always quicker than a 40. It depends on the test and what "quick" means. Let's say it means "time to build oil pressure" and you have a cold start engine. Which one will build oil pressure faster? The 30wt, every time. You all know this already.

But let's say you have a hot shutdown and then restart. NOW which builds oil pressure faster? Usually, it will be the 40wt. At some point, the oil gets thin enough that the engine becomes much more "leaky" and your oil pump's efficiency is reduced. And a less efficient oil pump plus more leakage within the oil system means the 30wt both leaks down faster and pumps up slower.

I do find it interesting that on large engines where over a million gallons of fuel must be burned before overhaul that 40wt oil is still used, even with peak cylinder pressures up to 220+ bar and oil temps in the 110-120c range.

And as long as we are talking about the righthand part of the Stribeck curve, more viscosity means thicker oil film, all else being equal.
 
It's not registered with JASO. Shell just decided to put the letters on the bottle. Ironically, Shell recently stopped putting the JASO MA letters on the T6 variants, but instead have a lil graphic of a motorcycle on the bottle.

The truth is Rotella is older than JASO. And people have been using it in motorcycles long before JASO even existed. JASO MA is helpful, but it's not definitive, the way I originally thought.

In fact, apparently even Honda's standard GN4 motorcycle oil is not actually registered with JASO, they just claim to meet the spec and put the letters on the bottle, the same as Shell. 💡
I don't know how much cross-over there is under the whole Shell umbrella (Rotella, Quaker State, Pennzoil), but the JASO registration list does show that the "Shell Advanced 4T Ultra" is formally registered with JASO.

Watch this thread to see what Shell/Pennzoil says to my question about their motorcycle oil being JASO MA2 rated, but not registered with JASO.

 
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