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Hmm, I don't even have to give it any gas. I just let the clutch go gently, and up the ramp we go.
Rhino Ramps
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Do you put the ramps right up to the front tires or do you leave some space so as to get a running start before the tires have to go up onto the ramp (the front edge of which is 1" higher than the ground it's sitting on, if I recall correctly).
Last time I used them I put them right up to the front tires, and later I thought it might work better if I left a foot or so of space so as to get a running start, but I just decided to get a jack instead and never did use them again.
Last time I used them I put them right up to the front tires, and later I thought it might work better if I left a foot or so of space so as to get a running start, but I just decided to get a jack instead and never did use them again.
Currently using the 12,000 pound Rhinos with my Chevy Silverado. And, for extra piece of mind, I stick a couple jack stands under the frame. Used for oild changes, shoving grease into zerks, etc.
Sure wish I had a lift or one of those "trench" things in the garage so I could stand upright while performing maintainence.
Always be safe. Grandpa got stoopid back in the 60s. He used a bumper jack to get at a brake line. He thought he could get to it without exposing his body to harm. Guess he got busy and didn't pay attention. The car fell with no one around and squished him. Unsure if he died immediately or if the weight kept him from breathing...... kind of an auto anaconda preventing the expansion of the chest that allows air intake.
Ain't worth taking any chances. Use two methods to secure a vehicle in case one of 'em fails.
Sure wish I had a lift or one of those "trench" things in the garage so I could stand upright while performing maintainence.
Always be safe. Grandpa got stoopid back in the 60s. He used a bumper jack to get at a brake line. He thought he could get to it without exposing his body to harm. Guess he got busy and didn't pay attention. The car fell with no one around and squished him. Unsure if he died immediately or if the weight kept him from breathing...... kind of an auto anaconda preventing the expansion of the chest that allows air intake.
Ain't worth taking any chances. Use two methods to secure a vehicle in case one of 'em fails.
I actually put them right against the tire. Then I line them up by going in back of the car to make sure they are lined up. Once you drive up on them a few times its a piece of cake. The key is not to get rammy.
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No Evil Knievel running starts up the ramp here! I butt the ramps against the front wheels.
I always think I'm old fashion not having some Rhino Ramps until I slide my floor jack under the car, lift one side, put the jackstand in place and change the oil. Easy to rotate tires too. Still, there are times I'd like to have some RR's just to see what I'm missing. (I also see myself driving off the ends! Opps. Glad I have a floor jack.)
Any floor jack guys find it "better" to use RR's for oil changes?
Any floor jack guys find it "better" to use RR's for oil changes?
The problem I have now with newer cars is, Where do you put the floor jack ? Or, where do you put the floor jack, and then place a jackstand?
On my old 70 Torino I used to have, I used to say I could roll the floor jack under there and jack it up no matter what I was lifting on.
Now, it takes some thought. My son's Camaro has a warning under it at the front ends, "do not lift here." I'm glad I wasn't the guy who did lift there before the warning and folded one up on top of his jack... yikes.
Using these, I put the floor jack right where the factory tire-changing jack goes:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...temID=2061&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=jack
The jackstand I put under the engine support crossmember (subframe/K frame/etc)
driftiing OT here...
most newer unibody cars use a sheetmetal seam to locate the screw jack on the sides, and the scissors/screw jack has a slot that locates and lifts properly (ie, not on the edge directly).
When using a floor jack, lifing here directly on the standing seam can cause some major damage. On my Toyotas, I place the floor jack cradle on the sub-frame member just inboard from the prescribed screw-jack lift points. A block of wood not much taller than the cradle cup sides placed inside the cup gives a good flat surface with lots of load-bearing area. (I use a 2x4 cut to about square, laid flat inside the cup)
On many lower-slung cars, you have to jack it up pretty high to get a jackstand under that same subframe member. (But do it anyway)
For rear lifts, placing the floor jack at the center of the rear suspension elements (the part that is connected directly to the body) works well and I believe is the prescribed location.
Most shop manuals give this kind of info, but buying a $150 book just to figure out how to lift it with anything other than the screw/scissors jack is a bit extreme....
Here is the pinchweld adapter I use. 4x4 with a slot cut in it.
I thought about doing that, but I was afraid that the wood would start splitting, and I'm pretty sure that my car doesn't have the ground clearance for a 4x4 and a jack.
Yes, the link above is for a slot adaptor for your floor jack so you can lift at the sheetmetal seam (or pinch weld) without damaging it.
It's quite possibly one of the most useful things I've ever bought.
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