I have 4K mi on a new Toyota FJ Cruiser, 4WD, MT. I am looking to switch the engine Dino to Synthetic and am considering Amsoil 0W-30 SSO, 5W-30 ASL, 10W-30 ATM or Redline 5W-30. Regardless of the issue of OCI or cost, does anyone have an informed opinion/advice on these oils for this particlar engine? Truck runs primarily in So. Cal region with occasional trips to mts & desert. Thanks.
Request synth oil advice for Toyota FJ Cruiser
- Thread starter Peromyscus
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If you decide to use Amsoil use their Series 3000 5W30 it is going to do the best job in that application. The Seiers 2000 0W30 is not that impressive. Now with all that said I would not spend the money that Redline want's or Amsoil wants even thought both oils work great!I would use Mobil-1 High Milage 10W30,Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 or Penzoil Platnium 5W30 or 10W30 and call it a day! That engine will do great on any of the oils I recomended year round.I would lean towards the RTS 5W40 Walmart price $16 a gallon and it is a great oil for this application and your environment!
JB - just so you know, Amsoil doesn't make Series 2000 0W-30 anymore. It's been replaced with SSO (Signature Series) 0W-30.
Anyhow I say there is no reason this engine needs an XW-40. Maybe go with a 10W-30 for the warm climate, but really a good 0W-30 or 5W-30 will do great in this 6.
Anyhow I say there is no reason this engine needs an XW-40. Maybe go with a 10W-30 for the warm climate, but really a good 0W-30 or 5W-30 will do great in this 6.
Thanks for the feedback. One related question: From info that I read, I get the sense that Toyota (& other manuf.) recommend 5W-30 because the "thinner oil" 5W part of the viscosity designation reduces friction and thus improves gas mileage. If true, does this come at the expense of wear on the engine components. (i.e is a 10W oil better to use than a 5W or 0W oil in a mild climate. Or does the lower W viscosity help lubricate the engine more quickly and thus would compensate for any wear on the engine?)
The 5W means it flows better at lower temperatures and is tested down to -30C instead of -25C like 10W oil. This reduces wear and the time it takes for the oil to warm up, as it starts thinner so it has to thin less as it comes up to temperature, and once it is, it behaves as a straight 30 weight.
The issue with 5W-30 oils, mostly in the past, is they have a lot of Viscosity Index Improvers (VIIs) in them, which makes them behave in a less linear way so it doesn't thin out at the same rate as just a straight 30, so as those shear off they may offer less protection at operating temperature than a 10W-30 but this, especially with the quality of pretty much every current brand name oil this is a much smaller issue than it once was.
The issue with 5W-30 oils, mostly in the past, is they have a lot of Viscosity Index Improvers (VIIs) in them, which makes them behave in a less linear way so it doesn't thin out at the same rate as just a straight 30, so as those shear off they may offer less protection at operating temperature than a 10W-30 but this, especially with the quality of pretty much every current brand name oil this is a much smaller issue than it once was.
As I understand this, for a 30 weight oil, the lower the W viscosity rating, the faster the oil comes to temperature and the less wear on the engine. However, the lower the W rating, the more VIIs that have to be added to the oil to make it behave as a 30 weight...and as the oil wears, shearing of these VIIs limits the oils ability to protect as a 30 weight oil. So if I am looking to choose between 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 oils, which consideration is more important? Or are you saying that one should choose a low W rating and assume the quality of today's oils is good enough not to worry about VIIs as long as one replaces the oil at an appropriate interval?
Some are better than others, the difference between Pennzoil dino 5W-30 and 10W-30 is fairly slim in that regard and the Pennzoil 10W-30 yellow bottle is pretty much the gold standard right now.
I wouldn't lose sleep over it as long as you change your oil at a reasonable interval.
I wouldn't lose sleep over it as long as you change your oil at a reasonable interval.
Originally Posted By: Peromyscus
I have 4K mi on a new Toyota FJ Cruiser, 4WD, MT. I am looking to switch the engine Dino to Synthetic and am considering Amsoil 0W-30 SSO, 5W-30 ASL, 10W-30 ATM or Redline 5W-30. Regardless of the issue of OCI or cost, does anyone have an informed opinion/advice on these oils for this particlar engine? Truck runs primarily in So. Cal region with occasional trips to mts & desert. Thanks.
Peromyscus,
I'd run Mobil 1 because IF you decide to have the dealership Longo Toyota in El Monte California offers M1 as an option. That way you stay consistant.
Durango
I have 4K mi on a new Toyota FJ Cruiser, 4WD, MT. I am looking to switch the engine Dino to Synthetic and am considering Amsoil 0W-30 SSO, 5W-30 ASL, 10W-30 ATM or Redline 5W-30. Regardless of the issue of OCI or cost, does anyone have an informed opinion/advice on these oils for this particlar engine? Truck runs primarily in So. Cal region with occasional trips to mts & desert. Thanks.
Peromyscus,
I'd run Mobil 1 because IF you decide to have the dealership Longo Toyota in El Monte California offers M1 as an option. That way you stay consistant.
Durango
Whatever you use it will likely keep the engine alive long enough to ensure the body rips itself apart. http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/problems-dealer-service/33440-engine-bay-body-rips.html
Mobil1 is inexpensive and a good oil. NO, I don't claim it's the best, but I will continue using it until something equivalent becomes available in the same price range.
Does Pennzoil Platinum have that parafin **** in it?
Does Pennzoil Platinum have that parafin **** in it?
Originally Posted By: pdxyota
Mobil1 is inexpensive and a good oil. NO, I don't claim it's the best, but I will continue using it until something equivalent becomes available in the same price range.
Does Pennzoil Platinum have that parafin **** in it?
Johnny answered your question in the "pennzoil platinum" subject a few threads down. I suggest you read the responses written for you before you ask the same question again in other threads. Otherwise, some people might accuse you of being a troll.
Mobil1 is inexpensive and a good oil. NO, I don't claim it's the best, but I will continue using it until something equivalent becomes available in the same price range.
Does Pennzoil Platinum have that parafin **** in it?
Johnny answered your question in the "pennzoil platinum" subject a few threads down. I suggest you read the responses written for you before you ask the same question again in other threads. Otherwise, some people might accuse you of being a troll.
Originally Posted By: mcrn
Perom how do you like that FJ with the MT anyway? That is one vehicle I am considering. I have driven a 2 wheel drive (obviuosly an AT) but never had the chance to drive the MT. No dealer down here gets them.
mcrn, I love it. The MT is very smooth and responsive. I replaced the std stick shifter with the TRD quick shifter so the throws are shorter and shifting feels more precise. I like the lower gearing in 1st & 2nd, and 6th gear makes highway driving a breeze. With the MT, I feel like I am more involved in the driving process than with the AT. In L.A. the MTs were also hard to find; I had a dealer order the vehicle in the configuration I wanted...I had to wait a few weeks but it was worth it. If you like/prefer a stick to an auto, I don't think you would be disappointed.
Perom how do you like that FJ with the MT anyway? That is one vehicle I am considering. I have driven a 2 wheel drive (obviuosly an AT) but never had the chance to drive the MT. No dealer down here gets them.
mcrn, I love it. The MT is very smooth and responsive. I replaced the std stick shifter with the TRD quick shifter so the throws are shorter and shifting feels more precise. I like the lower gearing in 1st & 2nd, and 6th gear makes highway driving a breeze. With the MT, I feel like I am more involved in the driving process than with the AT. In L.A. the MTs were also hard to find; I had a dealer order the vehicle in the configuration I wanted...I had to wait a few weeks but it was worth it. If you like/prefer a stick to an auto, I don't think you would be disappointed.
Originally Posted By: Peromyscus
mcrn, I love it. The MT is very smooth and responsive. I replaced the std stick shifter with the TRD quick shifter so the throws are shorter and shifting feels more precise. I like the lower gearing in 1st & 2nd, and 6th gear makes highway driving a breeze.
Tell me a little more. I really am interested in buying an FJ (MT of course). How much was the TRD quick shifter? Did you install it yourself? Indeed city MPG? Etc. Thanks!
mcrn, I love it. The MT is very smooth and responsive. I replaced the std stick shifter with the TRD quick shifter so the throws are shorter and shifting feels more precise. I like the lower gearing in 1st & 2nd, and 6th gear makes highway driving a breeze.
I was looking at them for a while also for the wife, but the premium fuel, low mpg, expensive parts, and aluminum block all turned me off to them. Very nice vehicles and plenty capable offroad with all their features though. Watch the two roads show on Speed and see them in action and what they are capable of.
I don't think I would be looking into an FJ Cruiser, but that's just me. The whole body ripping itself apart problem worries me. Especially worrisome is the fact that Toyota refuses to issue a recall on the problem, and will only fix it under warranty.
I can't believe it isn't a safety issue, forcing a recall. The body rips at the crumple zone seam. That has to affect crash performance, I don't see how it doesn't. 218 pages of documentation from real owners and no solution from Toyota. Shame.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/problems-dealer-service/33440-engine-bay-body-rips.html
I can't believe it isn't a safety issue, forcing a recall. The body rips at the crumple zone seam. That has to affect crash performance, I don't see how it doesn't. 218 pages of documentation from real owners and no solution from Toyota. Shame.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/problems-dealer-service/33440-engine-bay-body-rips.html
You have the same engine I have in my 4Runner. I filled my 4Runner with Schaeffers 9000, 5W30 at 3k and last week at 9k. I don't really think you can go wrong with that oil.
Happy Motoring,
joat
Happy Motoring,
joat
Originally Posted By: theedge67
I don't think I would be looking into an FJ Cruiser, but that's just me. The whole body ripping itself apart problem worries me. Especially worrisome is the fact that Toyota refuses to issue a recall on the problem, and will only fix it under warranty.
I can't believe it isn't a safety issue, forcing a recall. The body rips at the crumple zone seam. That has to affect crash performance, I don't see how it doesn't. 218 pages of documentation from real owners and no solution from Toyota. Shame.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/problems-dealer-service/33440-engine-bay-body-rips.html
crikey
I don't think I would be looking into an FJ Cruiser, but that's just me. The whole body ripping itself apart problem worries me. Especially worrisome is the fact that Toyota refuses to issue a recall on the problem, and will only fix it under warranty.
I can't believe it isn't a safety issue, forcing a recall. The body rips at the crumple zone seam. That has to affect crash performance, I don't see how it doesn't. 218 pages of documentation from real owners and no solution from Toyota. Shame.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/problems-dealer-service/33440-engine-bay-body-rips.html
crikey
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