Request synth oil advice for Toyota FJ Cruiser

[mountravlr]

Originally Posted By: theedge67
Whatever you use it will likely keep the engine alive long enough to ensure the body rips itself apart. http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/problems-dealer-service/33440-engine-bay-body-rips.html


Are the reports I've seen accurate with regard to the FJ Cruiser's frame being a problem when stressed to the breaking point? The body "rips" are troubling enough!

 

[Peromyscus]

I really like the FJ, but it is a thirsty vehicle. I get 15-16 mpg mixed city/hwy. I have not been able to drive a full tank on the highway to see what hwy mileage can be. I have a std roof rack which adds drag, no lift and AT tires. I am aware of the body rip issue - not insignificant but most owners have not reported problems; I wait to see how it plays out.

 

[Peromyscus]

Tell me a little more. I really am interested in buying an FJ (MT of course). How much was the TRD quick shifter? Did you install it yourself? Indeed city MPG? Etc. Thanks!

[/quote]

I bought the quick shifter from the dealer and had them install it when I bought the truck, simply because it was simpler. TRD Source lists the dealer price at $350 but they sell it for $318. References at FJ Forums describe the process for replacing it; it sounds more or less straight forward. Mileage noted in previous post.

Question (just trying to understand/learn about oils): can you explain, or direct me to a reference,regarding the wear differences between 0W-30,5W-30,10W-30 when the temps are moderate. In other words, when it is cold, 0W flows more quickly to lubricate engine parts - a good thing. But at warmer start-up temps is there less wear protection using the 0W vs the 5W or 10W? If not, why wouldn't everyone use a 0W? Thanks.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: Peromyscus
Question (just trying to understand/learn about oils): can you explain, or direct me to a reference,regarding the wear differences between 0W-30,5W-30,10W-30 when the temps are moderate. In other words, when it is cold, 0W flows more quickly to lubricate engine parts - a good thing. But at warmer start-up temps is there less wear protection using the 0W vs the 5W or 10W? If not, why wouldn't everyone use a 0W? Thanks.


In a nutshell all 0W-30,5W-30,10W-30's need to meet the same viscosity range at 100°C. Look here: Viscosity table
Theoretically even at 75°F a 0W will flow better than a 10W, but for multiple reasons it's not that easy. Think of viscosity as a curve, with a relationship between temperature and viscosity. Depending on an oils base oil type and properties plus viscosity altering additives (VII's viscosity index improvers and PPA's pour point agents) - the viscosity will drop with rise in temperature but the rate and degree can be different, and the opposite happens when the temperature drops. At start up any 0W-30,5W-30,10W-30 will more viscous than any 0W-30,5W-30,10W-30 hot, so worrying about it being "too thin" at ambient temp is not a concern at all. The faster the oil flows the better. The reasons everybody doesn't use 0W-30 (in cars that specify 0W-30,5W-30,10W-30) are mainly cost and culture.

This may help: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g52.pdf

Now as for protection, wouldn't the world be easy if viscosity=protection. They are often times inversely propotional!

 

[JohnBrowning]

Rotella-T-Synthetic 5W40 is $16 a gallon or less at Walmart! You can run this year round with no problems! It will love this stuff!If you want something in a 5W30 I would go with M1 5W30 not the EP stuff either no need for that.PP 5W30 and 10W30 would work well as well.If you decide you want some Amsoil and are going to do the extended drain then I would go with Series 3000 5W30HD!

 

[JohnBrowning]

Oh and just so you know Toyota engine's generaly do just fine on any oil... Redline Rock's but is not needed when you look at the cost. If you do go with Redline check out their 5W40 you will love it! I ran it in my Camry!