New to BITOG - advice on weekend car

Messages
18
Location
Orange County, CA
New to BITOG here. Full disclosure - I've always used M1 on all my cars long before I knew about BITOG so pardon my lack of knowledge. I'm pretty brand-loyal and up until a few years ago I've been using the regular M1 Synthetic you can get at Walmart. I would consider myself an advanced amateur when it comes to working on cars - short of removing an engine and its accessories like a/c, alternator and transmission, I've done pretty much everything else. But the knowledge of some people here is quite intimidating and admittedly, beyond whats on paper, the fine print and details of oil are still all greek to me. I have limited knowledge of oil - I just know enough to be safe as far as I am concerned. So, I've been a long time lurker for quite a few years after finding this site and only recently did I join to ask for some advice. So here's where I stand. I currently maintain the vehicles in my household, and my father's household, and my brother's household. Its a total of 8 cars I do regular maintenance. And up until a few years ago, I've began being more picky and careful about the oil I use on them. Here is what the current state is (oil,filter, mileage) for each car. My household- 2012 Lancer ES hatch - M1 0W-30 AFE, Fram XG-series filter, 115k mi 2013 Lancer Evolution MR - M1 5W-30 AP (last 2 oil changes were using the AP, previously used to be M1 5W-30 EP), M1 AP filter, 686 mi 2015 Acura RDX (wife's) - M1 5W-20 EP, Fram XG-series filter, 63k mi Father's household- 2016 C7 Stingray - M1 5W-30 Full Syn, OEM filter, 1100mi 2018 Expedition Limited - unchanged, still on OEM, 1500mi (prev replaced 2012 Explorer XLT, M1 5W-20 EP HM, Fram XG-series filter) Brother's household- 2016 Fusion Sport - Valvoline 5W-20 Full Syn, Fram XG-series filter, 43k mi 2019 Fiesta ST - M1 5W-20 EP, OEM filter, 1800mi 2019 Flex non turbo - Valvoline 5W-20 Full Syn, Fram XG-series filter, 2300mi > all the oil drain bolts except for the Expedition have been swapped out for magnetic ones. So here's where I would like to get some opinions. I've been procrastinating on doing a UOA so that is on my list this year. The Evo does not get driven a lot. It's my weekend car (my 3rd Evo, completely stock and unmolested, previous 2 were stock-ish). A few times in between oil changes I drive it a bit hard after getting it up to temp (I also wait for the Twin Clutch fluid to wrm up as well) to blow out the cobwebs. I've changed the oil on it every 6 months, roughly every 50 miles based on my mileage. I've always used M1 5W-30 from day one, used M1 0W-40 a few times in 2015, and switched to M1 5W-30 EP until I just recently tried the AP formula since it went on sale and that's what it is on right now. I know its not a broken in engine (well 600 miles is broken in per the factory), and I idle the engine under load (a/c) for 40-50 mins every so often. Plus the occasional spirited drive every now and then. But with a toddler turning 2 this year, the past couple of years I've not been able to drive it as often so it sits if not idles under some load. Plus moved into a new place so fixing up the garage was my top priority. Last couple of oil changes using the AP formula I found very little to no varnish (that I can see through the oil fill hole) and the oil drained was almost still clear, like a light gold color. I know it is probably overkill since the engine doesnt see any load for extended periods. If anything I feel it gets heatsoaked idling. So will using the EP (I plan to switch back once the sale expires) be more than enough? I know a UOA will tell for sure, but based on the conditions (CA climate), what is known about the oil(s) used, the limited to no heavy load the engine gets, will that suffice? I guess I'm looking for peace of mind as well as some direction. keep in mind that since its been relegated as a sort of toy in the garage, I have the luxury to experiment on different oils every now and then and cost (at least so far) has not been a problem. Thank you for reading this far and I appreciate your input!
 

Bud

Messages
2,815
Location
Texas
Since you like Mobil 1, I would just use it for all your vehicles you do maintenance on. You are servicing a lot of vehicles so might as well make it easy.
 

Macky

Thread starter
Messages
18
Location
Orange County, CA
I've just been more used to using it. But I'm not opposed to trying out a different brand. I plan to change back to the M1 EP for the Evo next time I change the oil, but was also thinking of using Edge instead.
 
Messages
2,310
Location
SD
If you use the rebates, M1 can be had at a great price. If you don't like rebates, QSUD at WM is a great value. Either oil will serve you well.
 
Messages
1,163
Location
sonoma
m1 is the flagship of stable oil formulations and head and shoulders above most others with lspi and di's, especially with their 0w40 offerings. If there are any weaknesses, and I'm not saying their are, it would be oil formulations that are 20 and 30 weight that are api cert'd oils. These are low additive oils often with low viscosities in order to satisfy CAFE fuel economy goals, not necessarily the goals of owners who may opt for more metal protection instead of more fuel economy. You don't need to consider other brands persay, but maybe study viscosities and see what oil companies did with certain formulas. Take m1 0w40 as an example, because it is a 40 weight CAFE stays out of the formula, no or less regulations then 20 or 30 weight, but the actually viscosity of 0w40 m1 is right on the line of being a 30 weight oil, so due to the swing winter rating and weight, 0w40 m1 spends much more of it's use life closer to a 5w30 then a 0w40 by design, but has more additives that may protect metal better long term. See if m1 made the viscosity at the other side of the range, it would be a 40 weight for most of it's use life, but they didn't. Consider 0w40 m1 as one of the best 30 weights you can buy for protecting metal.
 
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