Replacing FWD Toyota Ball Joints

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Just an unsolicited beginner tip for replacing FWD Toyota ball joints.

Toyota's service procedure calls for removing the knuckle and swapping the ball joint on the work bench. Although this may be necessary in some situations (e.g. rust), I have found this to be unnecessary out here.

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The castle nut can be loosened using an open-ended 19mm wrench. The castle nut is tightened fairly tight, so I use a wrench extender for additional leverage.
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This job can be completed in under an hour. Just be careful about not moving the CV axle too much when you remove the ball joint studs from the control arm.
 
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I just replaced ball joints on a 2009 Kia Sedona van - very similar set-up to the Toyota shown. Had to remove the LCAs to pound out the bolts. No way they would come out in situ.

I envy you folks in warmer rust-free areas.
 
GM likes using giant rivets to hold LBJs in which take a while to remove, and the LCA has to come off, and the alignment gets compromised.

I've done Toyota LBJs without a followup alignment and had no symptoms that I needed it. No excuse not to use (tight fitting) nuts and bolts/ studs.
 
GM likes using giant rivets to hold LBJs in which take a while to remove, and the LCA has to come off, and the alignment gets compromised.

I've done Toyota LBJs without a followup alignment and had no symptoms that I needed it. No excuse not to use (tight fitting) nuts and bolts/ studs.
Alignment appears to be unchanged from the ball joint replacement. The studs definitely tightly into the OE arm.

(But the pictured vehicle needs an alignment anyway - this is the same one that received the KYB Strut Plus upfront.)
 
On Mercedes cars one removes the knuckle to press (or beat out) the ball joint. Then use a big special press to get the other one in…
 
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