Replace boot on FWD CV joint, or replace halfshaft?

[92saturnsl2]

Had my 2007 Pacifica on the lift today and found some grease being slung around the inside driver's side CV joint. Caught it very early, it definitely has a rip in the boot. Oddly enough the outboard boot looks brand new (I'm certain it's never been replaced before). The inside boots of both axles must have used a different kind of rubber, because the passenger inside boot is not far behind, whereas the outboard passenger side boot also looks new.

Is it an awful job to replace the boot or are there shops that will replace it for me that won't charge an arm and leg if I bring the axle in?

The last time I had a broken boot was on my '96 Maxima and I went the lazy route and replaced the halfshaft with a sub-$50 rebuilt Cardone unit. Ever since then the car has had a weird vibration under heavy acceleration, which I attribute to a crappy rebuild job.

Long story short, I don't want to substitute my perfectly working OEM CV joints for some unknown rebuild. I'm about done with aftermarket/rebuild parts, the quality is never the same as OEM regardless of what aftermarket price tier you shop in. Even if you buy at a dealership many years down the road, that "OEM" part might not be the same as the original one that came on the car new.

All that said, I'd really like to put new inside boots on these good CV joints. There is some kind of rubber weight / balancer in the middle that looks like it would make it quite challenging to get the inside boot on and off.

 

[DuckRyder]

ALWAYS reboot the factory axle with OE boot unless it has been run dry and with dirt in it for a LONG time....

If you can take the axle out, you can reboot it, you might need a set of crimp pliers depending on what type of clamps come with the boot.

Just say no to quick boots.

 

[The Critic]

Inner boot is often neoprene, Outer boot is thermoplastic. At least on OE.

 

[Dave9]

Another vote for take it out and reboot.

The rubber weight isn't in the way, except of bench vice jaws to hold the shaft still. The boot comes off the other end.

If it really is precision balanced, take note of the orientation of all parts and put back together in same positions as they came off.


Vintage ETCG video:

 

[svtrit]

I had Toyota do my Camry while we were on vacation. I expected them to sell me a new half shelf, but the rebooted the joints instead. I was happy to see that.

 

[The Critic]

I had Toyota do my Camry while we were on vacation. I expected them to sell me a new half shelf, but the rebooted the joints instead. I was happy to see that.

Because it is a gravy job with low-risk of comeback... and technicians make money on labor, not parts.

 

[DougR]

I also recommend replacing boots on OEM axles when the joints are still OK as in your case. If you don't do it yourself, I suggest finding a shop that specializes in driveline repairs and ask if they reboot rather than replace and what they recommend. Driveline specialists are more likely to have the experience needed to reboot. If they recommend replacing, then ask about quality, balance weight, vibration, hollow vs solid shafts, and warranty. Google OEM vs aftermarket CV joints to know what questions to ask.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Are the OE parts still available for the 2007 Pacifica?

I looked up Mopar Parts Giant, and the outer CV boot seems to be discontinued, and only reman OE axles are available at $300 each.

 

[Blueshound]

Because it is a gravy job with low-risk of comeback... and technicians make money on labor, not parts.

I guess things have changed in the last 20 years. Replacing boots used to be hit-or-miss at least on Asian and Euro. After many boot replacement fails, my shop almost always replaced the half shaft. Quick, no mess, and very few comebacks.

 

[Timmastertech]

Inner boot is fairly simple on those, P/N for the kit is 68050953aa

 

[Timmastertech]

Are the OE parts still available for the 2007 Pacifica?

I looked up Mopar Parts Giant, and the outer CV boot seems to be discontinued, and only reman OE axles are available at $300 each.

INners are available, outers never were available. There is a note in star parts that the outer boot was never released for service and axle must be replaced.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Yeah, when you knock the inner joint apart, to can change the boot from the inner end.

 

[DemoFly]

Ain't no way I am EVER going to reboot another CV shaft when a reman with warranty is a few dollars more.

 

[92saturnsl2]

Ain't no way I am EVER going to reboot another CV shaft when a reman with warranty is a few dollars more.

Warranty doesn't replace the time and effort involved in getting the halfshaft out if you happen to get a dud. After my last experience with aftermarket/rebuilt CV axles, I won't go there again when I have a perfectly working OEM part.

The only trouble is I've never re-booted one before. I can get the axle in/out no problem, just wondering how involved a job it is to put a new boot on. Sounds like you have to separate the joint? That's unfamiliar territory for me.

 

[DemoFly]

Warranty doesn't replace the time and effort involved in getting the halfshaft out if you happen to get a dud. After my last experience with aftermarket/rebuilt CV axles, I won't go there again when I have a perfectly working OEM part.

The only trouble is I've never re-booted one before. I can get the axle in/out no problem, just wondering how involved a job it is to put a new boot on. Sounds like you have to separate the joint? That's unfamiliar territory for me.

Hahahaha. It's no fun at all. Messy and time consuming. Most inners require you to split the joint, too. So your perfectly working OEM axle became a reman right before your very eyes.

 

[92saturnsl2]

Hahahaha. It's no fun at all. Messy and time consuming. Most inners require you to split the joint, too.

Looking at the halfshaft, I suspect I'll have to split the joint. I can see no way the boot is coming off otherwise. Need to do a deep dive on Youtube / forums to see what I'll be getting myself into.

 

[DemoFly]

Looking at the halfshaft, I suspect I'll have to split the joint. I can see no way the boot is coming off otherwise. Need to do a deep dive on Youtube / forums to see what I'll be getting myself into.

I edited my post with the CV joint bible. I admire your moxy.

 

[92saturnsl2]

I edited my post with the CV joint bible. I admire your moxy.

It's tempting to go the aftermarket / rebuilt route given these prices. $60 shipped to your door and just swap the part.

Guess I'm a glutton for punishment, but I really want to rehab the OEM part if possible. I'm certain I've had dirtier jobs, so that doesn't bother me. Just need to make sure there's no crazy tools involved. The car isn't a daily driver so I can take my time.

 

[DuckRyder]

It is actually a Tripod joint, it doesn't have the cage an balls like a typical outer CV joint, you can tell by the shape of the housing opposite the boot.

when you release the boot the tripod and rollers will slide out. don't let them fall apart.

I doubt the average flat rate guy would but i mark these with a paint pen for alignment and positioning so everything goes back in the same spot. The spider may or may not be able to be installed more than one way on the axle shaft, so I mark it to the shaft as well.

Blog tripod vs. Rzeppa joint – KMP Drivetrain Solutions

n this blog, we would like to talk about the difference between the regular, ball-type CV-joints used in most passenger cars and the tripod joints that we use in our driveshafts.

www.kmpdrivetrain.com

 

[Dave9]

Hahahaha. It's no fun at all. Messy and time consuming. Most inners require you to split the joint, too. So your perfectly working OEM axle became a reman right before your very eyes.

?? SMA practicaly did it in real time (except for the parts washer) and only took 34 minutes. We shadetree machanics would just stick it in a bucket of gasoline ahead of time (after boot removal), and a toothbrush to get the remaining grease off, so we aren't fighting with the initial grease muck that Eric did, but, so what if it's messy? Lay down a flattened cardboard box. Wear gloves, as you would anyway. Splitting the joint is exactly what you want to do, get all that old grease out of there and refill with new/clean/quality grease.

It's not the same thing to think in terms of yours becomes a reman, because if you catch a boot failure early on, yours doesn't have any wear yet, while the reman is likely to have more wear, components that just didn't fall below the threshold that the reman required. Plus the reman may be of a generic chinese unit instead of an OEM one so it was worse to begin with, or may be reman with chinese parts that even if new, wear out faster than your OEM used parts. Plus the reman may use crappy cheap moly grease so when the boot splits, all the oil has been separating out of it and leaks out the split that much faster.

Frankly before I bought a reman, I'd pull a used one off a junkyard vehicle that has intact boots, and take it apart, clean, lube, and put new boots on both ends if trying to save a buck over a new OEM part. I'm more picky than a remanufacturer because I'm the one stuck using the part instead of the one trying to reman as many as possible even if not in as good a shape as new.

The situation changes if I'm in a hurry, can't have vehicle downtime (or vehicle is soon to be sold) so what I'm doing then is getting whatever the local auto parts shop has in stock to finish the repair before I wash up for my next meal.