'03 F-150 2WD Front Lower Ball Joints & Upper Control Arm with Ball Joint

Joined
Jan 3, 2004
Messages
6,617
Location
northern Alabama
2003 Ford F-150 2WD Lariat 5.4L with 160k miles
Need to replace the lower ball joints & upper control arm as those ball joints have busted too. These have the rotor/hub assembly so inner & outer bearings will have to be repacked, at least. Using Ford OEM parts.
Any tip/tricks for this job?
I assume no need to replace the inner or outer bearings or bearing seals, right since they were replaced 40k miles ago? NLGI #2 grease ok?
I plan to reuse cotter pins & snap ring.
Most videos I find are for 4WD so also missing torque specs especially for the axle nut tightening process.
Caliper bracket bolts (18mm) 136 ft-lb???
Caliper guide pin bolts (13mm) 23-25 ft-lb???
Lower ball joint ???
Control arm bolts ???
Upper ball joint ???
Can someone confirm the axle nut (1-1/16 or 27mm) 20ft-lb while turning rotor, then back nut off 1/2 turn & torque to 20 in-lb???
I assume Advance Auto Parts Powerbuilt loaner tools will be fine: PowerBuilt Ball Joint/U Joint Service Set (23 Piece), PowerBuilt Front End Service Kit, and/or PowerBuilt Kit 15 Front end fork Set (5 Piece)
Anything else I'm missing?
 
There is no reason to take the rotor off the knuckle to do that job, I pull the caliper and pads, leave the bracket and rotor on the knuckle. Disconnect the tie rod end, wheel speed sensor, upper ball joint then lower ball joint.
 
I have an 02 F150 2WD and it’s incredibly easy to rebuild the front-end on these rigs. Definitely use new cotter pins (always) and don’t sweat the job. I would separate the upper ball joint from the spindle first, swing the spindle towards you (assuming you’re facing the tire) then remove the lower ball joint but and get the spindle off.

When you go back to torque everything, make sure your suspension is loaded as if the truck is sitting on its own weight, on the ground.
 
Not very difficult. I went with Ford parts. Moog had lasted only about 50k miles or so.
I only removed the caliper bracket 18mm bolts & removed it all at once.
Use the loaner Powerbuilt fork set kit 15 p/n 648646 to knock loose the ball joints.
Don't forget the snap ring on the lower ball joints.
Use the loaner Powerbuilt ball joint/U joint service kit 46 p/n 648617 to press out & press in the lower ball joints.
Have a bucket or something to place the knuckle on while messing with the lower ball joint. I didn't remove the tie rod end but you certainly can as that might be viewed as making it easier, but less parts removed is typically path forward.
 
Not very difficult. I went with Ford parts. Moog had lasted only about 50k miles or so.
I only removed the caliper bracket 18mm bolts & removed it all at once.
Use the loaner Powerbuilt fork set kit 15 p/n 648646 to knock loose the ball joints.
Don't forget the snap ring on the lower ball joints.
Use the loaner Powerbuilt ball joint/U joint service kit 46 p/n 648617 to press out & press in the lower ball joints.
Have a bucket or something to place the knuckle on while messing with the lower ball joint. I didn't remove the tie rod end but you certainly can as that might be viewed as making it easier, but less parts removed is typically path forward.
Nice!
Just use a mini sledgehammer instead of those BBQ forks if you ever have to do it again.
I was gonna say, get the online Haynes subscription, they have a few pages of all the torque, oil, volume, pressures, etc in there which is crazy useful.
Way to get after it!
 
I've never thought of Haynes as having reliable enough information to pay for it.
Sometimes I will just use a hammer for tapered joints like these.
 
I've never thought of Haynes as having reliable enough information to pay for it.
Sometimes I will just use a hammer for tapered joints like these.
It's well worth it. I have the online for all my cars as it is color and you can zoom in on the pictures and only like $15 each.
 
I have the factory service manuals for my 3 vehicles & a couple other Toyota's of family members. I don't have the FSM on this, my dad's pickup.
 
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