Remanufactured Engine Experiences?

Our shop uses jasper engines and transmissions daily. 2 applications: Ford 4.0 v6 single cam and old gm iron duke 2.5 4cylinders…as well as automatic transmissions for them.

I would never put one in a car, nor ever recommend them to anyone.

they burn oil right off the bat, smoke, leak oil, rattle, and typically don’t last till the warranty they give us which is 3 years I believe.
 
Most all large rebuild outfits under pay the people doing the work, so I would guess a high turn over. I suppose they are also run like sweat shops, you know rush rush. Its all about fast and cutting corners on the manufacturing cost, parts used likely not the top of the line either. High turn over and under pay usually doesn't mean high skilled people doing the work. I could never understand why a job want ad reads "fast paced", like that is desirable? In the old days 60's, the best bet for an good engine was a brand new one from your dealers parts department, around $500. or so.
 
The same guy who posted the video of the blown Jasper 5.4 3v that was posted earlier in the thread also has endorsed the Powertrain Products remans in other videos, and showed them being installed in customer vehicles.

Hard to argue with this - 5 year warranty included and +299 for no-fault warranty.

www.powertrainproducts.net

jeep engine 4.0 L6,242,87-90

JEEP 4.0/242 87-90 ENGINE 87-90. VIN L & M. BLOCK #665 OR 535. HEAD #686. ALSO SEE AVAILABLE OUR INSTALLATION KIT FOR ALL THE MAINTENANCE ITEMS YOU ARE REPLACING WITH YOUR ENGINE. THERE IS A $350.00 CORE CHARGE
www.powertrainproducts.net
 
Brons2 said:
The same guy who posted the video of the blown Jasper 5.4 3v that was posted earlier in the thread also has endorsed the Powertrain Products remans in other videos, and showed them being installed in customer vehicles.

Hard to argue with this - 5 year warranty included and +299 for no-fault warranty.

www.powertrainproducts.net

jeep engine 4.0 L6,242,87-90

JEEP 4.0/242 87-90 ENGINE 87-90. VIN L & M. BLOCK #665 OR 535. HEAD #686. ALSO SEE AVAILABLE OUR INSTALLATION KIT FOR ALL THE MAINTENANCE ITEMS YOU ARE REPLACING WITH YOUR ENGINE. THERE IS A $350.00 CORE CHARGE
www.powertrainproducts.net
Click to expand...
Is there quantitative evidence to suggest that any of these aftermarket rebuilders is better than the other?

It seems like it is luck of the draw. Might as well find the one that is easiest to warranty and pays the best warranty labor rates.
 
atikovi said:
What do you mean, pays the best warranty labor rates.? Don't THEY do the warranty repair?
Click to expand...
No, the rebuilder typically pays your installer a pre-set labor rate and warranty labor time for any repairs. None of these companies have their own shops.
 
The Critic said:
No, the rebuilder typically pays your installer a pre-set labor rate and warranty labor time for any repairs. None of these companies have their own shops.
Click to expand...
Every rebuilt part I've ever used required you to return the defective part on your dime, the least of which to prove it's actually bad and you're not trying to pull a fast one.
 
atikovi said:
Every rebuilt part I've ever used required you to return the defective part on your dime, the least of which to prove it's actually bad and you're not trying to pull a fast one.
Click to expand...

If they suspect anything funny, they'll send an independent adjuster out. There are third parties they can hire to do inspections.
 
t1snwrbrdr12 said:
Our shop uses jasper engines and transmissions daily. 2 applications: Ford 4.0 v6 single cam and old gm iron duke 2.5 4cylinders…as well as automatic transmissions for them.

I would never put one in a car, nor ever recommend them to anyone.

they burn oil right off the bat, smoke, leak oil, rattle, and typically don’t last till the warranty they give us which is 3 years I believe.
Click to expand...
Yikes! I also watched this a few days ago with a similar conclusion:

 
Huie83 said:
I have a 97 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) with the 4.0 that is shedding fine metal into the oil so I've been researching engine re-manufacturers. The engine had a new cam and lifters installed around 2-3k ago ( chasing a tick and low vacuum) and I think something didn't seat right and is getting chewed up and it's back to ticking. With all that metal floating around in the oil, I'm sure the engine doesn't have too much longer to live.

This is a toy jeep for me, used mainly for weekend off-road trips. It's lifted and has 33's, re-geared etc, I can take my time with the swap over a few weekends in my spare time.

There are so many positive and negative reviews on companies like Jasper, S and J engines, ATK etc, so I'm looking for some real world reviews of companies you've used for remanufactured engines. It's hard to sort through what is true VS fake on Google.

Those of you that have used a reman engine, who did you use and what was your experience? I'm not interested in using a local rebuilder as I'm short on actual free time to tinker on the weekends and don't want to hassle with transporting my engine to and from the shop ( I don't have a truck etc) . I just want a engine dropped at my house and I can return the core in the crate and have it picked up.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
How do the holes look, any scoring, ridges? How did you break in the new cam? The new cam, lifter or pushrod may be getting chewed up, not good but not necessarily a death sentence.
I hate to admit it but I have done a quick and dirty rehash on an older one of these, the holes looked and measured good so I popped the oil pan and pulled the rod caps and a couple of the main caps and everything looked okay only a little wear on the rod bearings.

I gave it a glaze busting with a ball hone cleaned the crank and put new pistons, rings and rod bearings and oil pump in it, also the cam and lifters.
Pre pressure oiled it as well as using red juice on the bearing shells and cam a fired it up and let it run at 1500 rpm for 20 min and dumped the oil. Over 100K later it is still running fine. Not a real rebuild but the guy didn't want to spend the money on proper machine work, the next step was a bone yard engine which is probably a lot better than a reman.
 
Trav said:
How do the holes look, any scoring, ridges? How did you break in the new cam? The new cam, lifter or pushrod may be getting chewed up, not good but not necessarily a death sentence.
I hate to admit it but I have done a quick and dirty rehash on an older one of these, the holes looked and measured good so I popped the oil pan and pulled the rod caps and a couple of the main caps and everything looked okay only a little wear on the rod bearings.

I gave it a glaze busting with a ball hone cleaned the crank and put new pistons, rings and rod bearings and oil pump in it, also the cam and lifters.
Pre pressure oiled it as well as using red juice on the bearing shells and cam a fired it up and let it run at 1500 rpm for 20 min and dumped the oil. Over 100K later it is still running fine. Not a real rebuild but the guy didn't want to spend the money on proper machine work, the next step was a bone yard engine which is probably a lot better than a reman.
Click to expand...

You hate to admit it? Nothing wrong with this approach for a light freshening. If the cylinders and the crank journals are within spec, but things are a bit tired, this can be a good cost effective approach that will last a long time with proper care. One other thing you can also do is give the cylinder heads a little attention, new valve guide seals and giving valves a light lapping can improve oil control and combustion chamber seal.

Where it doesn't work out is when things are worn out of spec and people don't measure, then they wonder why the rings don't seal and the oil pressure is low.
 
Exhaustgases said:
Most all large rebuild outfits under pay the people doing the work, so I would guess a high turn over. I suppose they are also run like sweat shops, you know rush rush. Its all about fast and cutting corners on the manufacturing cost, parts used likely not the top of the line either. High turn over and under pay usually doesn't mean high skilled people doing the work. I could never understand why a job want ad reads "fast paced", like that is desirable? In the old days 60's, the best bet for an good engine was a brand new one from your dealers parts department, around $500. or so.
Click to expand...
Go to places where employee leave reviews of their employer. You will see Jasper as what you just described. The same goes for any other rebuilder of anything.
 
DIY ? Read the warranty very carefully, in some cases, they can not warranty a DIY job because they think the DIY person knows nothing.
Some of those outfits seem to only trust an established auto repair facility to do the work, especially if there is a major failure involved.
I think it was ATK or what ever the outfit is put the blame on the auto parts place to replace a wrong oil pan for the application, that was a mess to deal with.
 
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