Remanufactured 5.4 Triton break-in oil

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May 27, 2017
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Central California
Just installed a remanufactured 5.4 3-valve in grandson’s 2005 F-150. Engine supplier says initial oil and subsequent changes at 500 and 3000 miles must be non-synthetic to keep warranty in effect (7 year, unlimited mileage). The dino oil available locally is HighMileage Supertech. I have no issues with Supertech, run it in my XJ; it’s the High Mileage additives I’m wondering about.
 
Just installed a remanufactured 5.4 3-valve in grandson’s 2005 F-150. Engine supplier says initial oil and subsequent changes at 500 and 3000 miles must be non-synthetic to keep warranty in effect (7 year, unlimited mileage). The dino oil available locally is HighMileage Supertech. I have no issues with Supertech, run it in my XJ; it’s the High Mileage additives I’m wondering about.
Why do they worry you?
 
Why do they worry you?
Worry is not the right term, wondering maybe better? I’m surprised this old school practice is still used, when one buys a new car the OCI are just standard manufacturers recommended intervals of 5-10K. Do they use Dino on initial fill at the factory?
 
Worry is not the right term, wondering maybe better? I’m surprised this old school practice is still used, when one buys a new car the OCI are just standard manufacturers recommended intervals of 5-10K. Do they use Dino on initial fill at the factory?
I don't understand the question. Your situation is different than a new car.

Besides, what distinction is there really in any modern oil? Did your builder give you a list of conventional oils that would be acceptable? I'll guarantee you that the Supertech High Mileage oil isn't 100% Group I or Group II base stock nor is any other conventional with a modern license or specification.
 
if the bottle does not say synthetic then you are good to go unless they specify a specific brand, grade/etc

This is really kind of silly, most all oils are rated Dexos and will be a blend of oil including synthetic. The anti wear is very low.

There are special break in oils
 
In any case, the oil change INTERVAL is much more important on these bad engines than any of your choices. Keep it a short OCI and you'll be good.
 
Worry is not the right term, wondering maybe better? I’m surprised this old school practice is still used, when one buys a new car the OCI are just standard manufacturers recommended intervals of 5-10K. Do they use Dino on initial fill at the factory?
No, it would be Motorcraft Synthetic Blend from the factory, which would be my recommendation outside of a dedicated break-in oil or a diesel oil like Rotella T4
 
Ok, big brain fart here.... when I first read the title of this thread.. 'Remanufactured 5.4 Triton break-in oil', the first thoughts that came to mind was "who remanufactures break in oil?" Which lead me to remembering these... I guess I need some rest....:unsure:
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The builder sounds old school with old school break in. The main reason to spec low end oil for break in is to seat the piston rings and work harden the surfaces. The theory is that synthetics lubricate too well so the rings don't seat well leading to fuel dilution, fouled plugs and short lifespan.

I purchased new and now my son has a 02 F150 with that engine with over 200K on the clock and still strong. I switched to M1 15-50 at 15k and synthetics in the trans and diff at first service for those. All thats ever been replace is the Alt, Battery and fuel pump.

Beyond the lubricants I would highly recommend finding an old Superchips tuner on ebay. that did wonders for engine and trans performance.
 
I was under the impression that rebuilt/re manufactured engines don't have the fine finish that a factory engine does, so there is more concern about proper break in to wear the parts in properly. John Deere, I think Brad Penn/PennGrade?, and maybe a few others have dedicated break in oils to avoid being too slippery?? Just my thoughts, with nothing to back it up.

 
The builder sounds old school with old school break in. The main reason to spec low end oil for break in is to seat the piston rings and work harden the surfaces. The theory is that synthetics lubricate too well so the rings don't seat well leading to fuel dilution, fouled plugs and short lifespan.

I purchased new and now my son has a 02 F150 with that engine with over 200K on the clock and still strong. I switched to M1 15-50 at 15k and synthetics in the trans and diff at first service for those. All thats ever been replace is the Alt, Battery and fuel pump.

Beyond the lubricants I would highly recommend finding an old Superchips tuner on ebay. that did wonders for engine and trans performance.
That’s the way I understand it also. Old school but it’s a good warranty and don’t want to give any cause for issues. thanks for the tip on the Superchip, will look into it.
 
I would call them and ask for a list or recommendation, finding a true dino may not be easy at wally or go for the All Mileage since it's a blend.

Also are you sure the Supertech HM is dino you are using, the last time I looked all they had for Supertech HM was full synthetic.
 
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When I had a rebuilt 4.6 liter engine put into my 97 F-150 the oil that was put in it was the Motorcraft 5w30 blend oil. I was instructed not to use a full synthetic until 5,000 miles. Until then just change oil with the conventional or blends. I used the ST 5w30 oil for many of the oil changes. I am pretty certain that at the time ST was a conventional. If doing it now I would use the ST Blend oil. I also did very frequent changes to flush out the ever so tiny metal flake out of the engine. I stopped doing the frequent changes when I no long saw metal flake. Now my changes are at 3,000 miles and mostly blends. I have done full synthetic a few times but even then it was only 3,000 miles OCI. The engine seems to be fine and does not use or burn oil.
 
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