MolaKule
Staff member
What?
Redline Shockproof Differential Fluid
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MolaKule
Staff member
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colloidal
Generally, the calcium is in a sulfonate or phenate form. The high levels of calcium in these lubes take the shock loads.
Generally, the calcium is in a sulfonate or phenate form. The high levels of calcium in these lubes take the shock loads.
OK - slurry WAS an exaggeration! 23000 ppm!
Quote:
Generally, the calcium is in a sulfonate or phenate form. The high levels of calcium in these lubes take the shock loads.
Any down sides to this type of formulation? Oxidative stability, long term wear, corrosion, etc?
Generally, the calcium is in a sulfonate or phenate form. The high levels of calcium in these lubes take the shock loads.
Any down sides to this type of formulation? Oxidative stability, long term wear, corrosion, etc?
MolaKule
Staff member
Other than cost, possibly moisture entrainment.
I don't think these fluids were meant to be left in the diffy of daily drivers, since most racing lubes were meant to be temporary lubes.
As I said, if you're not racing, a good synthetic 75W110 will work just fine.
How much horsepower are we working with here? What engine displacement, vehicle, etc?
I don't think these fluids were meant to be left in the diffy of daily drivers, since most racing lubes were meant to be temporary lubes.
As I said, if you're not racing, a good synthetic 75W110 will work just fine.
How much horsepower are we working with here? What engine displacement, vehicle, etc?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
How much horsepower are we working with here? What engine displacement, vehicle, etc?
It's for my 02 2500 Suburban with a 6.0. I've had some engine work done so I'm guessing about 360HP. The reason I was looking at this stuff is I have a Transgo HD shift kit in the truck and when I'm under hard acceleration and the transmission shifts gears I get a large clunk or bang in the rear end. I thought by using this fluid it would add some extra protection for the gears, however if this stuff is not made for the long run it may be prudent to use a Redline 75W-140 instead. I don't want to get into having to change the diff fluids every year or so.
How much horsepower are we working with here? What engine displacement, vehicle, etc?
It's for my 02 2500 Suburban with a 6.0. I've had some engine work done so I'm guessing about 360HP. The reason I was looking at this stuff is I have a Transgo HD shift kit in the truck and when I'm under hard acceleration and the transmission shifts gears I get a large clunk or bang in the rear end. I thought by using this fluid it would add some extra protection for the gears, however if this stuff is not made for the long run it may be prudent to use a Redline 75W-140 instead. I don't want to get into having to change the diff fluids every year or so.
MolaKule
Staff member
I have had two Suburbans and have found that the U-joints were one source of clunking sounds, the other being differential shim pack wear not properly loading the drive pinion/ring gear teeth properly.
I would call up RL and ask about the shock proof oil as for long life BUT from what I remember about that formulation other than ultra low temp it would be OK for a very long run with both high corrosion protection and good anti scuff protection.
bruce
bruce
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
I have had two Suburbans and have found that the U-joints were one source of clunking sounds, the other being differential shim pack wear not properly loading the drive pinion/ring gear teeth properly.
I know the U-joints are OK and it might be the shim packs, but my personal feeling is using a fluid which is supposedly better than what is recommended can't hurt, especially since the Shockproof and the Regular Redline Diff fluids are almost the same price for me as the dealer up here is a good friend of mine so I get a good deal on the stuff. I pay $9.25/qt for the Shockproof and $8.50/qt for the regular Synthetic diff fluid.
I have had two Suburbans and have found that the U-joints were one source of clunking sounds, the other being differential shim pack wear not properly loading the drive pinion/ring gear teeth properly.
I know the U-joints are OK and it might be the shim packs, but my personal feeling is using a fluid which is supposedly better than what is recommended can't hurt, especially since the Shockproof and the Regular Redline Diff fluids are almost the same price for me as the dealer up here is a good friend of mine so I get a good deal on the stuff. I pay $9.25/qt for the Shockproof and $8.50/qt for the regular Synthetic diff fluid.
Originally Posted By: bruce381
I would call up RL and ask about the shock proof oil as for long life BUT from what I remember about that formulation other than ultra low temp it would be OK for a very long run with both high corrosion protection and good anti scuff protection.
bruce
I sent an email to Redline and Dave told me the regular diff fluid would work fine and more or less said the Shockproof would be overkill and didn't see an advantage to using it. My only concern with the Shockproof is its longevity, since it is a racing fluid it may be made to be changed on a more frequent basis than the regular fluid which is something I don't want to do. It's kind of a catch-22.
I would call up RL and ask about the shock proof oil as for long life BUT from what I remember about that formulation other than ultra low temp it would be OK for a very long run with both high corrosion protection and good anti scuff protection.
bruce
I sent an email to Redline and Dave told me the regular diff fluid would work fine and more or less said the Shockproof would be overkill and didn't see an advantage to using it. My only concern with the Shockproof is its longevity, since it is a racing fluid it may be made to be changed on a more frequent basis than the regular fluid which is something I don't want to do. It's kind of a catch-22.
""Shockproof would be overkill and didn't see an advantage to using it.""
He may be right in over kill but it sounds like thats what is needed for you case or at least try it then you will know.
""My only concern with the Shockproof is its longevity, since it is a racing fluid it may be made to be changed""
Again ask them it maybe overkill but will it last 50K I would say yes in that I know a little about it I would run it and see if it helps noise if it dos not no big deal leave it in.
bruce
He may be right in over kill but it sounds like thats what is needed for you case or at least try it then you will know.
""My only concern with the Shockproof is its longevity, since it is a racing fluid it may be made to be changed""
Again ask them it maybe overkill but will it last 50K I would say yes in that I know a little about it I would run it and see if it helps noise if it dos not no big deal leave it in.
bruce
Originally Posted By: bruce381
Again ask them it maybe overkill but will it last 50K I would say yes in that I know a little about it I would run it and see if it helps noise if it does not no big deal leave it in.
bruce
Yeah, Good point. I'll call them on Monday. Thanks, Bruce. Would you recommend the Heavy for the front and rear or just the Heavy for the rear and Lightweight for the front. The rear is a 9.5SF and the front is a 9.25IFS.
Again ask them it maybe overkill but will it last 50K I would say yes in that I know a little about it I would run it and see if it helps noise if it does not no big deal leave it in.
bruce
Yeah, Good point. I'll call them on Monday. Thanks, Bruce. Would you recommend the Heavy for the front and rear or just the Heavy for the rear and Lightweight for the front. The rear is a 9.5SF and the front is a 9.25IFS.
Guys there are 3 different RL Shockproof gear oils Superlight 75w90, Lightweight 75w140 and Heavy 75w250. All are very different which one are you talking about? The heavy would be to thick for a daily driver IMO especially when cold. It takes 15 minutes to pour it out of the bottle on a cold day. It works great in my Harley trans but that is because of the clinging ability and trans design.
Originally Posted By: Burbanite
Originally Posted By: bruce381
Again ask them it maybe overkill but will it last 50K I would say yes in that I know a little about it I would run it and see if it helps noise if it does not no big deal leave it in.
bruce
Yeah, Good point. I'll call them on Monday. Thanks, Bruce. Would you recommend the Heavy for the front and rear or just the Heavy for the rear and Lightweight for the front. The rear is a 9.5SF and the front is a 9.25IFS.
Funny thing I make indusrtial and auto lubes but use RL (the syn regular 85/140)in front and rear dif on my expedition works fine.
for noise i would use heaviest you can for temp range you live in.
Gears like thick.
bruce
Originally Posted By: bruce381
Again ask them it maybe overkill but will it last 50K I would say yes in that I know a little about it I would run it and see if it helps noise if it does not no big deal leave it in.
bruce
Yeah, Good point. I'll call them on Monday. Thanks, Bruce. Would you recommend the Heavy for the front and rear or just the Heavy for the rear and Lightweight for the front. The rear is a 9.5SF and the front is a 9.25IFS.
Funny thing I make indusrtial and auto lubes but use RL (the syn regular 85/140)in front and rear dif on my expedition works fine.
for noise i would use heaviest you can for temp range you live in.
Gears like thick.
bruce
Just drained the 80w/140 Redline gear oil from my wifes Superduty 40,000ish miles on the oil and 64,000 on the unit, the 3rd oil change , it was really dark which surprised me .Could be the posi ? There was the powder metal on the fill plug magnet.I am doing a uoa to be sent out Monday I should use the place in Oakland ,but I,ll use Blackstone to support a site sponser
Originally Posted By: PT1
Guys there are 3 different RL Shockproof gear oils Superlight 75w90, Lightweight 75w140 and Heavy 75w250. All are very different which one are you talking about? The heavy would be to thick for a daily driver IMO especially when cold. It takes 15 minutes to pour it out of the bottle on a cold day. It works great in my Harley trans but that is because of the clinging ability and trans design.
Well, according to Redline the Heavy has the film thickness of a 75W-250, but provides the same low fluid friction of an SAE 75W-90. It never gets much colder up here than about -8 Degrees C and average is around +3 degrees C. So, IMHO, the Heavy should work fine in the rear diff. I think the lightweight which is similar to a 75W-140 but has the lower internal friction of an SAE 30 motor oil may just be the ticket for the front. Also, the truck is garage stored so pouring diff oil wouldn't be a problem, even if it was 75W-250.
Guys there are 3 different RL Shockproof gear oils Superlight 75w90, Lightweight 75w140 and Heavy 75w250. All are very different which one are you talking about? The heavy would be to thick for a daily driver IMO especially when cold. It takes 15 minutes to pour it out of the bottle on a cold day. It works great in my Harley trans but that is because of the clinging ability and trans design.
Well, according to Redline the Heavy has the film thickness of a 75W-250, but provides the same low fluid friction of an SAE 75W-90. It never gets much colder up here than about -8 Degrees C and average is around +3 degrees C. So, IMHO, the Heavy should work fine in the rear diff. I think the lightweight which is similar to a 75W-140 but has the lower internal friction of an SAE 30 motor oil may just be the ticket for the front. Also, the truck is garage stored so pouring diff oil wouldn't be a problem, even if it was 75W-250.
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colloidal
Generally, the calcium is in a sulfonate or phenate form. The high levels of calcium in these lubes take the shock loads.
So we're still talking about solid calcium particles that get crushed as they protect the gears?
As they get crushed into smaller peices do you think the fluid would not protect against wear as well?
Would you really run a 30wt oil in a hyploid diff if it was loaded with calcium?
http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/5.pdf gear oil data
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/virgin-redline-oil-lightweight-shock-proof-gear-oil.56146/ Ltwt Shockproof VOA
Why so little zinc?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colloidal
Generally, the calcium is in a sulfonate or phenate form. The high levels of calcium in these lubes take the shock loads.
So we're still talking about solid calcium particles that get crushed as they protect the gears?
As they get crushed into smaller peices do you think the fluid would not protect against wear as well?
Would you really run a 30wt oil in a hyploid diff if it was loaded with calcium?
http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/5.pdf gear oil data
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/virgin-redline-oil-lightweight-shock-proof-gear-oil.56146/ Ltwt Shockproof VOA
Why so little zinc?
Lightweight shockproof is well liked by the subaru community over at subaruforester.org. It's been used by many members in the manual transmission (which includes the front diff) mixed with Motul Gear300 in varying ratios.
The heavyweight version is really thick.. can't see too many street applications for it.
The heavyweight version is really thick.. can't see too many street applications for it.
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