Haldex + Redline MT-LV GL4?

I’d assume its characteristics are just well suited to Haldex coupling use.

Haldex clutches are "similar enough" to synchronizers (brass or carbon lined)?

Anyone may believe/think/guess/assume whatever he likes. I still prefer to use
some dedicated fluid exactly for that purpose.
My Haldex unit is too expensive to experiment with. It's not just about to ruin
it. The add pack dictates friction behaviour or performance. Without it you may
suffer from torque to your rear wheels, say from 4WD performance (in my own
case weaker LSD performance on my GTI). Why? Just to save a couple of bucks?

Several reputable forum members have said repeatedly: You can't derive the add
pack and performance from a simple $30 spectrographic analysis. I think it's more
than audacious to make your own conclusions from just guessing.
.
 
Haldex clutches are "similar enough" to synchronizers (brass or carbon lined)?

Anyone may believe/think/guess/assume whatever he likes. I still prefer to use
some dedicated fluid exactly for that purpose.
My Haldex unit is too expensive to experiment with. It's not just about to ruin
it. The add pack dictates friction behaviour or performance. Without it you may
suffer from torque to your rear wheels, say from 4WD performance (in my own
case weaker LSD performance on my GTI). Why? Just to save a couple of bucks?

Several reputable forum members have said repeatedly: You can't derive the add
pack and performance from a simple $30 spectrographic analysis. I think it's more
than audacious to make your own conclusions from just guessing.
.
I'm quite sure if Redline says this is compatible with Haldex...it's compatible. Why wouldn't it be? That's not audacious.
 
I'm quite sure if Redline says this is compatible with Haldex...it's compatible. Why wouldn't it be? That's not audacious.
100%. The guys at Red Line aren’t silly. If it was wrong for the application they wouldn’t say it’s right.
 
I used Ravenol AWD-H in Atlas. Dedicated to Haldex, it has much better properties in the cold.
Have another bottle to put in Tiguan.
 
Funny thing is, the first change around 40K miles the screen was filthy with clutch debris. Every time after the fluid/screen have been pretty clean. I even have a Haldex tune.
Yeah, that first cleaning is IMO the key. I would do it every 10K first 2 times on new VW's.
 
Ravenol, per their test, is dramatically better fluid than VW stuff. I appreciate that they make it specific for the manufacturer.
Those testing data are interesting but I'm not sure I understand it w/r to how their fluid will work vs. others.
 
I am not sure it brings anything to the table for the average consumer. But for you, I would go for it bcs. shear stability.
On this generation of AWD VAG, the main drivetrain weak point for circuit use is the haldex pump itself overheating. This fluid looks very slightly thinner than OEM, which wouldn't be a bad thing.
 
On this generation of AWD VAG, the main drivetrain weak point for circuit use is the haldex pump itself overheating. This fluid looks very slightly thinner than OEM, which wouldn't be a bad thing.
I've logged mine on track, I saw peak "clutch temp" (whatever that is actually measuring w/r to the Haldex using Simos Tools) of 60 deg C over a 25 min session in warm/not hot temps. Are you aware of anyone that's overheated it? This is with the United Haldex tune.
 
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I've logged mine on track, I saw peak "clutch temp" (whatever that is actually measuring w/r to the Haldex using Simos Tools) of 60 deg C over a 25 min session in warm/not hot temps. Are you aware of anyone that's overheated it? This is with the United Haldex tune.
There is no temperature sensor on MQB haldex units, without knowing what feeds into the model who knows.

The official VW motorsports pump replacement interval is replace every 4,000km of racing, but that's for VAQ.

It seems more common on cars doing endurance/time attack racing. Which is much more stress than simple track days. Mostly 2.5TFSI cars but keep in mind we now know that all of the gen5 Haldex "tunes" are just RS3 files, so it's very likely our pumps are working at similar duty cycles.
 
There is no temperature sensor on MQB haldex units, without knowing what feeds into the model who knows.

The official VW motorsports pump replacement interval is replace every 4,000km of racing, but that's for VAQ.

It seems more common on cars doing endurance/time attack racing. Which is much more stress than simple track days. Mostly 2.5TFSI cars but keep in mind we now know that all of the gen5 Haldex "tunes" are just RS3 files, so it's very likely our pumps are working at similar duty cycles.
Got it. Has anyone directly found that the United tune is in-fact just the RS3 file in a direct comparo? I understand that's what folks were thinking the Tunezilla and (can't remember the other one) were. APR I know has said that's what some were using based on their work/tuning but wasn't sure if the anyone de-constructed the United tune.
 
On this generation of AWD VAG, the main drivetrain weak point for circuit use is the haldex pump itself overheating. This fluid looks very slightly thinner than OEM, which wouldn't be a bad thing.

IMHO the weakest point is a clutch bathed by oil and to contaminate the
oil without a real oil filter. That tiny plastic screen isn't able to help much.
.
 
IMHO the weakest point is a clutch bathed by oil and to contaminate the
oil without a real oil filter. That tiny plastic screen isn't able to help much.
.
That is a downside but it can be changed more regularly like any contaminated lube.

I've always cleaned the filter when servicing it, but this is not the standard dealership procedure.
If you remove the pump to do so, you're supposed to replace the o-rings on it, which are $90+ if you pay normal dealer pricing. So at a shop it becomes a stupidly expensive service to do properly, I can understand why they get sludge-y.
 
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