Redline High Performance Oil

[Fly_bye]

Hi all, first post here. Don't think this may have been covered, so I'll post my question here.

My question concerns Redline motor oil. To be specific, I'm using it for a motorcycle. There are two types of Redline motor oil in question, Redline High performance motor oil, and Redline high performance motorcycle oil.

According to Redline, the high performance motor oil can be used in motorcycle with a wet clutch.

"Redline provides 25% lower coeffic of friction than other synthetics and petroleums, yet is designed for motorcycle wet clutches. This lubricant is formulated to suit all major car, motorcycle, marine engine manufacturers' and diesel engine builders' requirements and is formulated to suit the requirements for ACEA A3, and B3/B4"

On the other hand, the Redline high performance motorcycle oil is formulated specifically for four stroke motorcycles including sportbikes.

* Extra phosphorous and zinc for antiwear
* Lowest coefficent of friction available
* Less friction modifiers for superior wet clutch operation


One of the differences between the two, is the high performance motorcycle oil has more phosphorous and zinc. The high perfomance motor oil is API rated as high as SM and CF, while the high performance motorcycle oil is only rated at SJ, but is JASO MB rated.

What gives here? I have seen both types sold at motorcycle dealers, and in motorcycle shops.

I would appreciate some feedback on which type would be better suited for a sportbike application.

Chime away...

 

[02zx9r]

I would say Rotella 15W40 or the syn 5W40. cant beat the price or the performance.

 

[Fly_bye]

Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
I would say Rotella 15W40 or the syn 5W40. cant beat the price or the performance.


Thanks, thats nice to know, but my question was oriented toward the difference between Redline High Performance Motor Oil, and Redline High Performance Motorcycle Oil.

 

[hi-miler]

Some of the other threads in other topic areas state that the new SL and SM ratings for automotive oils have reduced amounts of additives to supposedly protect the catylitic converter in automotive applications and for whatever else, I can't remember. My choice is to run either a MC only oil or a Heavy Duty Diesel oil. On the HDD, they're busy changing those also to meet the new standards, so you might want to read up on that before you make a decision. Personally I use Amsoil and became a dealer after having some problems at my job that forced me to study lubricating oils. Review their website and make your own decision. At the very least Amsoil has some good information on how the different oils stack up in comparison testing, and if your bike uses an oil filter, I would strongly recommend the Amsoil EaO filter.
FWIW
Steve

 

[GMBoy]

I am using the Redline V-Twin HD oil (20W/60) in my Harleys with good results. I used Mobil 1 V-Twin prior to this and also had no complaints.

 

[PT1]

Either should work fine. If you have a seperate wet clutch sump like in a Harley Davidson, try using Redline MTL for the clutch. Much better than the motor oil IMO.

 

[sunruh]

what bike do you have fly_bye?

 

[Mackelroy]

Their motorcycle oil is not Ma rated either, its MB also.

I do agree its slicker, I had the pleasure of that experience and no longer will run it an a wetclutch application.

 

[Blake Sobiloff]

I ran the automotive 10W-40 for several OCIs in my KLR650. It kept the engine clean and I had no clutch problems. The only reason I've changed oils is that I'm trying to find something that'll hold its viscosity better; I could only get about 2K miles on the Red Line before it'd shear out of grade, and Rotella could go almost as far--but at much less cost.

If you don't have an engine that shears the heck outta your oil, Red Line is a good oil to use, but it does have good competition from the less expensive Rotella.

 

[cfromc]

Originally Posted By: Fly_bye
I would appreciate some feedback on which type would be better suited for a sportbike application.



The M/C specific is probably better due to some possible issues with the clutch when using the "regular" version. Through the years I've read of people using high moly oils with wet clutches and NOT having problems but I've also heard a couple people say they HAVE had problems. If I had a combined sump wet clutch bike and there were two versions available I would use the M/C specific one. I don't have a combined clutch/engine oil sump so I use the regular Redline in the crankcase.

 

[Jaybird]

OK, we see many riders who have absolutely no trouble whatsoever using oils with MoDTC at levels of up to ~700ppm. Although every once and awhile, we hear of a rider using the same oil in the same engine and has clutch troubles. Well, there is clearly some variance here. Bearing in mind that the formulas of these engine oils are fairly consistent, even down the the PPM of trace elements. And the consistency of the mass produced engine is also fairly spot-on. SO where could this variance be?
In the mechanical aptitude of any particular engine. Not the formula of the oil.
Sure, one oil may accentuate a mechanical issue more than another oil, but in my experience, sound engines with sound clutches do NOT have any problems with just about any oil on the shelf. Including those with MoDTC at levels of up to 700ppm.

I know I have seen a paper by Rotax (I think) that studied the effects of high MoDTC oils in wet clutch engines. And I think that is where the upper level of this element was recommended being ~700ppm. I also remember that being tied in conjunction with the oil also being sheared way out of grade.

Changing the fluid frequently is MUCH more important that what fluid is in the sump. A cruiser looking for longevity may be another story, but a high performance bike of any flavor should never be looking for an EOCI.

I will pass on ANY JASO engine oil. Many are nothing but pre-purchased SG-SJ packages with the frictional tests run. Oh, and a motorcycle on the bottle.
Very poor choices IMO.
Although the high-dollar boutique oils will be sufficient, there just isn't any clear justification to use them. Especially when there are fluids on the shelf, for sometimes >5x less coin, that will do every bit as good of job.

JASO is a safe alternative for oil purchasing consumers with few or no clues. Nothing more. A high performance standard, it's not.

 

[02zx9r]

Nicely said!

 

[tmcafe]

I've heard experts say the same: "Changing the fluid frequently is MUCH more important that what fluid is in the sump".

Jaybird, I was also curious about the (Rotax?) paper you mention, even more that I got a Rotax on one of my bikes. Do you have a link?

 

[PT1]

Quote:
Oh, and a motorcycle on the bottle.


This is the answer to the question from the original post...

 

[V1]

So Redline "motorcycle" oil has nothing special about it other than its label? Are all "motorcycle" oils only marketed as such?

 

[Mackelroy]

From what I can tell its the same chit, I would have fiqured after putting motorcycle on the label, it would be tested for MA rating, But I know the previous oils cant meet it.

This leads be to believe its just a label change, cause if they could meet MA rating I'm sure theyd Boast it.

An oil that meets the MA , slippage potential goes way down

Most the Diesli oils are good friction oils for wet clutch and would pass the MA gate.

I've been running 15w40 Motorcraft,I like its shifting over rotella

 

[PT1]

Originally Posted By: V1
So Redline "motorcycle" oil has nothing special about it other than its label? Are all "motorcycle" oils only marketed as such?


The differences are so minute that they don't warrant the added cost IMO. Don't get me wrong about Redline being great MC oil but you will get just as much bang for your buck from Mobil1 15w50 available at WalMart. I have been able to get Redline 20w50 for 2 the price.