Can anyone tell me the difference between the V-twin 20-50 and the auto 20-50 synthetic other than being wet clutch compatible?
...and are they compatible?
...and are they compatible?
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- Thread starter olskoolblu
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I would honestly tell you to give the Red Line tech guys a call. They are awesome when it comes to answering questions like this.
I tried. They must not be in on Saturday. I went with the V-twin. Looks like a lil higher flash point, clutch compatibility and $3 price increase was the only noticeable difference, but it gave me a warm fuzzy feeling because it said V-twin on the label. Lol
If you have a wet clutch probably best to use the V Twin. I am betting the car oil has more friction modifiers that are not wet clutch friendly. Atleast that would be their answer at Red Line I am sure. Now in a non shared/non unit construction system, probably cant go wrong with either.
It's for a Harley. I kind of figured the wet clutch compatibility would be the main difference. I looked at RL's tech sheets and the V-twin had values listed for zinc, phosphorus and moly levels where the other did not. It also had a bit higher flashpoint. There was a $3 difference. Maybe I needlessly gave away a couple bucks, but I stayed with the V-twin.
I use automotive oils in my Harley. I'm using rotella conventional 15w-40 in it now. I use it in the primary and I've gotta admit it is running very smooth.
I've got beehive springs,t6-6 cams(higher lift)ported heads which we milled to reclaim some compression.
I got a ton of M1,Amsoil and RP at a yard sale last spring. So I used m1 v-twin after breaking it in(with rotella) and the bike went from quiet to the top end sounding like something was broken. Amsoil wasn't a whole lot better for noise.
I put RP auto 20w-50 and almost instantly it went quiet again.
So I used all the RP up then found some motul 10w-60 in my yard sale box,again very quiet.
Decided to try Mobil since the engine had alot of miles on it and I had some 15w-50 in the yard sale box. Instant clackety clack clack. Drained the M1. Found some red line in the box,whisper quiet again.
So this year after many Pm's with sunruh I gave rotella conventional a shot,and I'm never going back to expensive synthetics.
I changed the oil at 5000 miles,not because it got noisy or ran any different but because it was me being a bit nervous.
Oil was black but wasn't fuel diluted(that I could smell) and I'm now 2500 miles into my second run with rotella. Bike feels like its got a bit more pep,and the oil costs a third of what syn bike oils,or syn oils in general cost.
Saving money,quiet bike. I'm happy.
I've got beehive springs,t6-6 cams(higher lift)ported heads which we milled to reclaim some compression.
I got a ton of M1,Amsoil and RP at a yard sale last spring. So I used m1 v-twin after breaking it in(with rotella) and the bike went from quiet to the top end sounding like something was broken. Amsoil wasn't a whole lot better for noise.
I put RP auto 20w-50 and almost instantly it went quiet again.
So I used all the RP up then found some motul 10w-60 in my yard sale box,again very quiet.
Decided to try Mobil since the engine had alot of miles on it and I had some 15w-50 in the yard sale box. Instant clackety clack clack. Drained the M1. Found some red line in the box,whisper quiet again.
So this year after many Pm's with sunruh I gave rotella conventional a shot,and I'm never going back to expensive synthetics.
I changed the oil at 5000 miles,not because it got noisy or ran any different but because it was me being a bit nervous.
Oil was black but wasn't fuel diluted(that I could smell) and I'm now 2500 miles into my second run with rotella. Bike feels like its got a bit more pep,and the oil costs a third of what syn bike oils,or syn oils in general cost.
Saving money,quiet bike. I'm happy.
Red line customer service is second to none. I ask many questions and get straight answers that no other company would give me. If you have a question don't hesitate to ask
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