Red Line oil in passenger cars

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Thanks. So, Red Line is PAO + Ester blend then? Do we know the ratio? I used the 0w20 you have linked (4 qt jug).

The ratio likely varies depending on the viscosity they want to achieve. I've seen 40& esters mentioned on this site, but I have no idea how accurate that is, or which viscosity they were referring to.
 

OVERKILL

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The ratio likely varies depending on the viscosity they want to achieve. I've seen 40& esters mentioned on this site, but I have no idea how accurate that is, or which viscosity they were referring to.
Last time Redline had an MSDS available:
Screen Shot 2018-05-05 at 5.39.49 PM.jpg


That's almost entirely PAO (POE isn't divulged on MSDS sheets, doesn't need to be).
 
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Thanks. I think when you take into account what I spent on the car, about $24k, spending $120 a year on two oil changes isn't going to cause me any concerns....what will cause me concerns is if I'm damaging my car in anyway. As they say, engines are expensive and oil is cheap. I have used conventional oil in a 2001 civic that went 250k miles (~7500 mile OCI)...sold it for $2500 :) and the engine was in perfect condition. So you are right, the engines will outlive me even if I used the cheapest synthetic or even conventional. I just wanted to use RL to see if it would clean out the piston rings (if that is what is the cause of my increased oil burning).
In my opinion the phrase " I have used conventional oil in a 2001 civic that went 250k miles (~7500 mile OCI)..." is the way to go. Fancy oil isn't going to change consumption issues. Flame away, but just check and add when low, change by owner's manual, and keep until it starts making horrible noises. Then sell for $6500 because used cars are out of control right now.
 

OVERKILL

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Yes I know it doesn't need to be included, but neither do the PAO concentrations need to be accurate. less than 30% and less than 60% doesn't say much....
It implies that it may be "up to" 90% PAO, which, if we include the DI+VM package at ~20%, capping our base oil blend at ~80%, implies that potential POE content isn't considerable or those ranges wouldn't be so high. Which makes sense, PAO is typically balanced with POE to aide in solvency and kindness to seals and such.

I expect POE content is around 10-20% at most. Higher concentrations are of little to no benefit in PCMO applications over PAO due to operating temperatures.
 

4WD

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It implies that it may be "up to" 90% PAO, which, if we include the DI+VM package at ~20%, capping our base oil blend at ~80%, implies that potential POE content isn't considerable or those ranges wouldn't be so high. Which makes sense, PAO is typically balanced with POE to aide in solvency and kindness to seals and such.

I expect POE content is around 10-20% at most. Higher concentrations are of little to no benefit in PCMO applications over PAO due to operating temperatures.
The 10W30 I use in my generator claims to be ester based - yet I’m not seeing much of anything on the SDS
They do show the Noack at 6 which is one of the reasons I like it in my larger portable …
 
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I always heard redline had a little over 40% ester and Amsoil SS had over 20%. No idea if that’s acccurate or not. But their VOA oxidation levels may indicate some truth to it. Redline is around 90 and Amsoil SS is around 45.
 
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15w40 stands up very well to everything, has more phosphor and zinc than rotella, you tell from the smell.

I employ a profession Oil Sommelier to taste and smell all the oils I use.

"Hummmm, full body ...... a bit of tannin ...... some dark fruit overtones ....... definite phosphorus and zinc notes ..... Assertive yet approachable. Quaker State 2007. Bottled in the fall if I not mistaken.".
 
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Years of reading to my mind and opinion read that they are very dry, if not "stringent" oils. Their only harm is if you run them far too long or in a classic engine that's got a ton of goop and cork seals that hold them together.

Esters are most excellent and durable under rage-hot racing application for the duration of the event. The rest of the time, just run a high detergent street; daily beater formula or a Porsche A40 is severe overkill as you fetch groceries... Yet provides excellent all round protection and engine longevity where it fits. (I wouldn't dare dump FS euro oil in a Dexos application)

My main take away though is just change it early, keep it full and swap filters as demanded by your manual and/or OLM. Do it with materials that meet or exceed your OEM specs.

Easy, peasy, wash, rinse, repeat and fuggeddhabouddidt. ;>
 
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"Another option is the ask Dave over at Redline and get an answer from the source:

Red Line Synthetic Oil is open for business Monday through Friday, 7:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. PST.

Red Line Synthetic Oil
6100 Egret Court Benicia, CA 94510
Phone: (707) 745-6100 or (800) 624-7958"

That's what I did, and he specifically said in the 40% range. FWIW

The virgin oxidation number can tell you the presence of an ester, but not the quantity. Interestingly enough, Amsoil's abs/cm is in the mid 30's range, and it's been suggested Amsoil uses in the 10-15% ester range. Mobil 1 and other synthetics abs/cm numbers are usually below 10. Mobil 1 0w40 is around 30 for abs/cm and that oil is claimed to use"ultra high performance" base oils (per data sheet) - likely POE. Redline and Valvoline Premium Blue Ester oil are 95-115 for abs/cm.

So it wouldn't surprise me if RL is indeed using substantial POE in their oils.
 
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