Red Line oil in passenger cars

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I had a problem with the MT-90 in 2 different car transmissions calling for a 75W-90 and were "recommended" by redline's website. A 1995 Pathfinder and a 2004 Audi A4 1.8t. Both shifted like **** in anything under 30 degrees F until the trans warmed up. 20 and below was like shifting through mud. Once I went back to OEM Audi fluid shifting was never an issue again. The pathfinder I ended up trashing cause the frame was rotting out. That's not to say that it is a bad product or any of their products are bad. Just my experience with MT-90 in 2 different vehicles. I haven't used their engine oils yet. I have Amsoil gear lubes, oil and ATF in my Stage 2+ 2.7t S4. I haven't had any issues. Though, my sump is ~8qts now since I use the bigger oil filter and an second oil cooler.
MT-90 is too heavy. I know people are using it on track. Even BimmerWorld that recommends RL for everything, doesn’t recommend MT-90, even for track for my model. MT-LV heaviest they recommend.
D4 works like a champ. No issues shifting after vehicle being parked for 8hrs at -34 few weeks back.
 
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MT-90 is too heavy. I know people are using it on track. Even BimmerWorld that recommends RL for everything, doesn’t recommend MT-90, even for track for my model. MT-LV heaviest they recommend.
D4 works like a champ. No issues shifting after vehicle being parked for 8hrs at -34 few weeks back.
Well, it's too late now. I got rid of that pathfinder in 2011 and the A4 in 2019. There was one guy on the pathfinder forum years ago that couldn't recommend it enough so everyone was using it. I just expected more from a lube that states a pour point of -49 and it sucked at 30. But hey, learned my lesson! I do miss my pathfinder though. :-(
 
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Well, it's too late now. I got rid of that pathfinder in 2011 and the A4 in 2019. There was one guy on the pathfinder forum years ago that couldn't recommend it enough so everyone was using it. I just expected more from a lube that states a pour point of -49 and it sucked at 30. But hey, learned my lesson! I do miss my pathfinder though. :-(
Pour point is different from viscosity. D4 and MT-90 I think have same pour point, but D4 is ATF, much thinner.
 
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Pour point is different from viscosity. D4 and MT-90 I think have same pour point, but D4 is ATF, much thinner.
I am no expert so if I had to do it again I would take your recommendation. However, even the redline website today suggests MT-90 which would cause a regular consumer like me to trust that recommendation. But as I said, I learned my lesson. I have no more manual transmission vehicles at this point.
 
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I am no expert so if I had to do it again I would take your recommendation. However, even the redline website today suggests MT-90 which would cause a regular consumer like me to trust that recommendation. But as I said, I learned my lesson. I have no more manual transmission vehicles at this point.
Yeah. Redline recommends 4 different fluids for my BMW. They should at least give more detailed explanation what fluid is for what conditions.
 
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Yeah. Redline recommends 4 different fluids for my BMW. They should at least give more detailed explanation what fluid is for what conditions.
Still not gonna stop me from trying their oil eventually. When though, who knows. Under warranty in my 2 Subarus and I have enough for another OC in my Wife's CR-V which will be March next year. As for my S4, I don't drive it so I haven't changed the oil in I think 2 years and I have enough M1 for another 3 oil changes when I do eventually fix and drive it. I might even have enough Amsoil left for another change too. I forget. Age man....
 
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Still not gonna stop me from trying their oil eventually. When though, who knows. Under warranty in my 2 Subarus and I have enough for another OC in my Wife's CR-V which will be March next year. As for my S4, I don't drive it so I haven't changed the oil in I think 2 years and I have enough M1 for another 3 oil changes when I do eventually fix and drive it. I might even have enough Amsoil left for another change too. I forget. Age man....
I know just how you feel I am too! Yep I think I'm going to use it in my spring OCI in April of 2044 for my hundredth Birthday oil change!
 
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Scratching my head as to why there is an extended discussing regarding redline (i understand the OP initially asked about it) when Valvoline produces a product that SPECIFICALLY addresses his concerns.

It is like discussing how well a dime can be used to drive screws, after someone has indicated "use a screwdriver" JMO
 
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EEE

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2000 mile update: My car burned about 1/4 qt on this oil, with RP it was more. It appears the valve cover gasket seepage has stopped since I switched to RL. I will keep monitoring it. To me it is worth the extra cost to not have seepage and less burning. My car calls for 10k intervals, but I will cut that to 5k with the red line. I only put about 10-12k on my car a year, so I'm not that worried about the expense. If I was putting 50k on the car a year, even then I don't think I would be worried the expense of oil changes. Most Americans piss away $ on far less important things than oil changes.
If its the esters helping with reduced seepage and theoretically cleaning my piston rings thus helping with burning, what other oils could I try that have similar make up but are more readily available locally?

I will send a sample in at 5k to see how the oil performs. Which place does a proper oil dilution test?
 

EEE

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3000 mile update: Just checked my oil level and looks like I burned 3/8 of a quart in 3000 miles. Very pleased with this performance.
 
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I ran Redline for the first 35K miles with 5K intervals...yeah I know. Then Amsoil till 60K with 5K intervals....yeah I know too. This was on my 2002 Tacoma. At the time I wanted the best, lol.
 
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I don’t really see a need for Redline but of course it’s your car. I’d use some Castrol or Valvoline I’ve used it to clean engines many times. Pennzoil will do as well. And I think by RVT you meant RTV. 🙂
Use the GTX line, it has alot of detergents, might aswell give gtx 15w40 a try.
 

EEE

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3000 mile update: Just checked my oil level and looks like I burned 3/8 of a quart in 3000 miles. Very pleased with this performance.
Alright...4700 miles on the red line now. Topped off at 3000 miles, I'm down 1/2 qt. Seems the consumption is accelerating likely due to the oil thinning out with additional miles. I will not be changing my oil every 3k. I'm thinking that I will top off with a 0w30 (instead of the 0w20) next time to make up for any lost viscosity.
 
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How you know that RL is better for your engine than what manufacturer recommends? RL Performance is best suited for track use and shorter OCI. So yeah, if you track your car and use it on daily basis, sure. If not, you really do not know if RL is any better than your usual suspect in Wal Mart shelfs.
"RL Performance is best suited for track use and shorter OCI" - 😂😂🤣🤣 Now that's hilarious! Do you work for Amsoil??😄
 
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