OVERKILL
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Well, they are SUPPOSED to be
I've seen some that weren't, which is why I said likely. Some of them just have the bosses in the valley, but they are not drilled and tapped for the spider tray.
Recommended Zinc level for flat tappet engines
- Thread starter Jaymus
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It was be fun to swap to a roller set up. But... I really hate to tear into an engine when it is running 100% perfect. I do mean 100%, too. It doesn't smoke, tick, knock, or anything.
I wouldn't care to try Delo 10W-30 if I can find it. That is, if you guys really think it will PROTECT more than Castrol GTX within 3k OCI's. It will surely last longer, I know. But, mile for mile, would it show less wear? I guess that's something only a UOA could show.
I wouldn't care to try Delo 10W-30 if I can find it. That is, if you guys really think it will PROTECT more than Castrol GTX within 3k OCI's. It will surely last longer, I know. But, mile for mile, would it show less wear? I guess that's something only a UOA could show.
Quote:
From everything I have been able to learn, ZDDP type anti-wear is still the primary source of protection in any oil once the oil film breaks down. Other "ashless" chemistries seem to be helpful at optimizing the anti-wear but not in any dramatic way. Moly may also be helpful, but still, your real protection comes from good film strengths and enough traditional anti-wear to do the job.
This is true to some extent. On the other hand, boron + lower levels of ZDP have shown to be even better than just high ZDP alone.
In a few months, a popular oil maker on this board will be making something that might make you happy.
From everything I have been able to learn, ZDDP type anti-wear is still the primary source of protection in any oil once the oil film breaks down. Other "ashless" chemistries seem to be helpful at optimizing the anti-wear but not in any dramatic way. Moly may also be helpful, but still, your real protection comes from good film strengths and enough traditional anti-wear to do the job.
This is true to some extent. On the other hand, boron + lower levels of ZDP have shown to be even better than just high ZDP alone.
In a few months, a popular oil maker on this board will be making something that might make you happy.
I'm with you Jaymus. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Or as one members signature said, "If it ain't broke, keep on fixing it till it is broke."
Easy enough to get high zddp oil and your on your way.
Easy enough to get high zddp oil and your on your way.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Jaymus
It was be fun to swap to a roller set up. But... I really hate to tear into an engine when it is running 100% perfect. I do mean 100%, too. It doesn't smoke, tick, knock, or anything.
I wouldn't care to try Delo 10W-30 if I can find it. That is, if you guys really think it will PROTECT more than Castrol GTX within 3k OCI's. It will surely last longer, I know. But, mile for mile, would it show less wear? I guess that's something only a UOA could show.
I understand your reasoning
I can't leave anything stock though so.....
It was be fun to swap to a roller set up. But... I really hate to tear into an engine when it is running 100% perfect. I do mean 100%, too. It doesn't smoke, tick, knock, or anything.
I wouldn't care to try Delo 10W-30 if I can find it. That is, if you guys really think it will PROTECT more than Castrol GTX within 3k OCI's. It will surely last longer, I know. But, mile for mile, would it show less wear? I guess that's something only a UOA could show.
I understand your reasoning
I can't leave anything stock though so.....
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That would explain why millions of Jeep 4.0 engines run just fine on regular SM/GF-4 oil.
good info but i think your cam will be fine i am rebuilding my other 289(the driver engine) and its getting a new cam(RV Cam) and lifters and what not and as far as i have read the only reason cams and lifters are wearing high is improper break in and and break in lube. but since we are on the topic of SBF Cams and what not, what oil is best for break in the last cam i did i used Castrol HD30 without a hitch. but this is new rings and cam and lifters this time so what to use. sorry to hijack
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: brandontyler65
good info but i think your cam will be fine i am rebuilding my other 289(the driver engine) and its getting a new cam(RV Cam) and lifters and what not and as far as i have read the only reason cams and lifters are wearing high is improper break in and and break in lube. but since we are on the topic of SBF Cams and what not, what oil is best for break in the last cam i did i used Castrol HD30 without a hitch. but this is new rings and cam and lifters this time so what to use. sorry to hijack
If you have the money, convert it to roller. Crane link-bar roller lifters and there are plenty of roller bump-sticks that will work just fine.
The only downside is the cost of the lifters, as they are somewhat dear........
good info but i think your cam will be fine i am rebuilding my other 289(the driver engine) and its getting a new cam(RV Cam) and lifters and what not and as far as i have read the only reason cams and lifters are wearing high is improper break in and and break in lube. but since we are on the topic of SBF Cams and what not, what oil is best for break in the last cam i did i used Castrol HD30 without a hitch. but this is new rings and cam and lifters this time so what to use. sorry to hijack
If you have the money, convert it to roller. Crane link-bar roller lifters and there are plenty of roller bump-sticks that will work just fine.
The only downside is the cost of the lifters, as they are somewhat dear........
Just run amsoil 10W30 ACD diesel oil...full synthetic with a beefy ad pack (lots o' zddp) and pretty cheap if bought in any quantity. Their AMO is pretty good oil too for those that want the old school anti-wear chemistry. If you want to run a hot cam and high spring pressures then their 20W50 is pretty bullet proof. Red line makes some good oils for that application as well, but don't extend the drains too far with a radical set-up.
i made the cam link accessible but i am in college and extra money for a roller setup is not justified to me since all i am doing to the motor is adding that cam its still going to be the 287cfm autolite 2100 and everything works well with each other in the setup i have chosen for my application
Didn't Chevy go back to flat tappets from rollers in the Corvette?
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Didn't Chevy go back to flat tappets from rollers in the Corvette?
I'm the last guy here that anyone should listen to as a GM expert, but why on earth would they do that? And if they did, I'll freeze the steaks I bought for Memorial day, and grill crow instead! (Just kidding -- I'm doing the steaks regardleass!)
Didn't Chevy go back to flat tappets from rollers in the Corvette?
I'm the last guy here that anyone should listen to as a GM expert, but why on earth would they do that? And if they did, I'll freeze the steaks I bought for Memorial day, and grill crow instead! (Just kidding -- I'm doing the steaks regardleass!)
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Didn't Chevy go back to flat tappets from rollers in the Corvette?
Dear Lord no!!!!!!
Roller is superior in EVERY way over flat tappet.
Flat tappet is just WAY cheaper, especially to use on a block that is not a factory roller block.
The LSx motors are roller motors with billet steel camshafts and extremely light valvetrain components.
GM went roller in the trucks in the late 80's or early 90's and they haven't looked back. Ford went roller in 1985 in the 302 if I remember correctly.
A roller valvetrain doesn't wear like flat tappet, has less friction, doesn't require the extra protection of Zinc, and allows for a more aggressive camshaft profile due to the "smoother" nature of the roller-on-lobe action.
A roller valvetrain can also have MUCH steeper open and closing rates for the valves because you don't have to worry about the edge on the flat tappet lifter (which rides up the sides of the lobes) from cutting into the side of the camshaft.
Ultimately, solid roller is the best, but hydraulic roller (what most OEM's use on engines that are still pushrod) is a good compromise, with the weight of the lifter being one of the few detriments to this design.
Didn't Chevy go back to flat tappets from rollers in the Corvette?
Dear Lord no!!!!!!
Roller is superior in EVERY way over flat tappet.
Flat tappet is just WAY cheaper, especially to use on a block that is not a factory roller block.
The LSx motors are roller motors with billet steel camshafts and extremely light valvetrain components.
GM went roller in the trucks in the late 80's or early 90's and they haven't looked back. Ford went roller in 1985 in the 302 if I remember correctly.
A roller valvetrain doesn't wear like flat tappet, has less friction, doesn't require the extra protection of Zinc, and allows for a more aggressive camshaft profile due to the "smoother" nature of the roller-on-lobe action.
A roller valvetrain can also have MUCH steeper open and closing rates for the valves because you don't have to worry about the edge on the flat tappet lifter (which rides up the sides of the lobes) from cutting into the side of the camshaft.
Ultimately, solid roller is the best, but hydraulic roller (what most OEM's use on engines that are still pushrod) is a good compromise, with the weight of the lifter being one of the few detriments to this design.
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