Recommendation for tuned BMW N55?

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Originally Posted by CT8
One of my friends has a BMW with turbos and a V8 it does 0to 60 pretty good. I called him a while ago an he said let me turn up the volume I am going 125 mph. I asked is he was in one of his planes? He said no I am in my car.
I've done that in a Chevy Malibu with a turbo 4 banger
 
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1. N55 was not made with tuning in mind, nor was N54 although it turned out to be good platform for that. B series of engines are specifically created in mind with tuning potential as those are modular engines, which N series was not. No BMW did not create N55 or S55 in mind that people will tune up those engines. N55 engine was created in a time when V8 was still option, potentially for F30 too. However, high oil prices in 2007-2008 when N55 and F30 were already in development and later subsequent economic crisis took out V8 as an option in F30. That left BMW with N55 platform. S55 except things you mentned has closed deck design in order to sustain pressure. That is not feature that N55 has nor it would be possible to safely extract such power from N55. The fact that BMW decided to go closed deck for M3 tells you that they were NOT confident in design of N55 for such power. 2. I know BMW underrates engines. Most Euro companies do that. 3. Yes, I do have front diff. but for me and my purposes AWD is a MUST. 4. My point about longevity fo an vehicle stems from your original question. Why bother than with boutique oils if you are keeping cars for few years? Then any LL01 oil will do. If I had 450hp under the hood and was keeping that car for two years or whatever, I would get oil in Wal Mart and that is it. You are going with Redline bcs. you are thinking you will gain something compared to oils available in Wal mart or AZ or AAP. 5. Actually I like your car. I personally think that I would own M235 with stick if I did not need AWD and 4 doors to pack kids in the back.
 
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Originally Posted by metroplex
Originally Posted by CT8
One of my friends has a BMW with turbos and a V8 it does 0to 60 pretty good. I called him a while ago an he said let me turn up the volume I am going 125 mph. I asked is he was in one of his planes? He said no I am in my car.
I've done that in a Chevy Malibu with a turbo 4 banger
Give me space and I might do that with Sienna smile I know Tiguan will do it.
 

RIPGermanCastrol

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Quote
N55 was not made with tuning in mind, nor was N54 although it turned out to be good platform for that. B series of engines are specifically created in mind with tuning potential as those are modular engines, which N series was not
No? Maybe I don't understand, but I don't see how a modular design implies a design with tuning in mind. It's simply a cost cutting design philosophy. I don't think any manufacturer designs their cars with tuners in mind, and I doubt you could prove it if they did.
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N55 engine was created in a time when V8 was still option, potentially for F30 too. However, high oil prices in 2007-2008 when N55 and F30 were already in development and later subsequent economic crisis took out V8 as an option in F30.
I don't know if a V8 was ever on the table for the F80. As we've seen in recent years, every manufacture is downsizing engines to meet emissions requirements. Gas prices might've had a hand in it, but I doubt that European emissions standards would've made a V8 an option.
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That is not feature that N55 has nor it would be possible to safely extract such power from N55. The fact that BMW decided to go closed deck for M3 tells you that they were NOT confident in design of N55 for such power.
You are going to have to prove that instead of saying "BMW didn't copy+paste the N55 for the M3, so it obviously isn't suitable for even below M3 power." I have not seen widespread block issues in the N54 or N55 with basic bolt ons. It just isn't an issue. To be blunt, you are just wrong. People run N55s in the upper 400s, 500s, and even 600s; rods going through the block are not an issue at 400hp in the N55. I don't know how else to say it. You can do your own Googling, but the N55's block chuckles at 400hp.
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Why bother than with boutique oils if you are keeping cars for few years?
Because I plan on driving this car into the ground, but I'm saying I know it'll be in the ground well before 485,000km. Also, I'm totally anal about minor things on my car like this, so I put more thought in it than I should.
 
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Originally Posted by RIPGermanCastrol
Quote
N55 was not made with tuning in mind, nor was N54 although it turned out to be good platform for that. B series of engines are specifically created in mind with tuning potential as those are modular engines, which N series was not
No? Maybe I don't understand, but I don't see how a modular design implies a design with tuning in mind. It's simply a cost cutting design philosophy. I don't think any manufacturer designs their cars with tuners in mind, and I doubt you could prove it if they did.
Quote
N55 engine was created in a time when V8 was still option, potentially for F30 too. However, high oil prices in 2007-2008 when N55 and F30 were already in development and later subsequent economic crisis took out V8 as an option in F30.
I don't know if a V8 was ever on the table for the F80. As we've seen in recent years, every manufacture is downsizing engines to meet emissions requirements. Gas prices might've had a hand in it, but I doubt that European emissions standards would've made a V8 an option.
Quote
That is not feature that N55 has nor it would be possible to safely extract such power from N55. The fact that BMW decided to go closed deck for M3 tells you that they were NOT confident in design of N55 for such power.
You are going to have to prove that instead of saying "BMW didn't copy+paste the N55 for the M3, so it obviously isn't suitable for even below M3 power." I have not seen widespread block issues in the N54 or N55 with basic bolt ons. It just isn't an issue. To be blunt, you are just wrong. People run N55s in the upper 400s, 500s, and even 600s; rods going through the block are not an issue at 400hp in the N55. I don't know how else to say it. You can do your own Googling, but the N55's block chuckles at 400hp.
Quote
Why bother than with boutique oils if you are keeping cars for few years?
Because I plan on driving this car into the ground, but I'm saying I know it'll be in the ground well before 485,000km. Also, I'm totally anal about minor things on my car like this, so I put more thought in it than I should.
B engines will be used in many more models than N series. They have to be modular and ready for various power output as they will find their way in numerous vehicles. Also, new diesel generation is based on same design, hence closed deck design. People do run huge amount of power in these engines, especially N54 (and there is a reason for that which apparently is just not getting to you). And they do have problems, of course depending on execution. As for F80 and V8 etc. it is too long story for this.
 

RIPGermanCastrol

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Originally Posted by edyvw
People do run huge amount of power in these engines, especially N54 (and there is a reason for that which apparently is just not getting to you).
The N54 uses an open deck design as well. You aren't adding to your case by invoking the N54's block strength. Please, don't die on the hill that the N55 can't handle 400hp without pistons coming out of the block. It just isn't worth it.
 
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Originally Posted by RIPGermanCastrol
Originally Posted by edyvw
People do run huge amount of power in these engines, especially N54 (and there is a reason for that which apparently is just not getting to you).
The N54 uses an open deck design as well. You aren't adding to your case by invoking the N54's block strength. Please, don't die on the hill that the N55 can't handle 400hp without pistons coming out of the block. It just isn't worth it.
LOL. No I am not. Though I know some who died on the hill invoking AFE filter and induction.
 

RIPGermanCastrol

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Perhaps I have spent too much time trying to convince you that an N55 isn't going to grenade anywhere near 400hp. If a quick Google search couldn't tell you that, I don't know how I thought I could.
 
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Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by RIPGermanCastrol
Cool. I still have my 08 135i with nothing but the ppk tune, and I will fill that with Castrol 0w-40 because of its near-stock output and I'm planning to sell it soon anyway. Two questions for you guys more in the know: 1. Is 0w going to be significantly beneficial to me in the Georgia climate compared to 5w, and the same thing for 5w vs 10? 2. Is there any general consensus of how amsoil, redline, ravenol full synthetic, and other "high end" oils stack up against each other, or would anything of those be similar to each other and a cut above stuff like M1 and Castrol? 3. What would probably be better for the engine: using Castrol 0w40 with 3k intervals or redline/amsoil/ravenol with a 7-8k interval?
5W is going to be good in all 48 states. So do not pay attention to that. Castrol 0W30 and 0W40 are just really good oils, so that is why people use them. I currently sue Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 in my N52, and it is smooth as silk.
Let me ask you a serious question edyvw...I am not trying to give you a hard time here... I am just wondering about the following.. Say up in eastern Montana record low -70°F , North Dakota record low -60°F, upstate NY -52°F, or Vermont -50°F record low. And say the temperature dropped to -38°F....in any of those places and you had your vehicle there .. Would a 5w truly be just fine?? I am asking because #1 the record low temps in those states are all well below -38°F.... So -38 F is not all too uncommon in those places actually... And #2....Am I thinking correct that 5w is truly good just down to and good to go MRV and CCS wise down to -35°F??? And that this is with that oil being new... And that oils are allowed to slip a grade while in service... 5w to a 10w in this case...
 
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Originally Posted by bbhero
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by RIPGermanCastrol
Cool. I still have my 08 135i with nothing but the ppk tune, and I will fill that with Castrol 0w-40 because of its near-stock output and I'm planning to sell it soon anyway. Two questions for you guys more in the know: 1. Is 0w going to be significantly beneficial to me in the Georgia climate compared to 5w, and the same thing for 5w vs 10? 2. Is there any general consensus of how amsoil, redline, ravenol full synthetic, and other "high end" oils stack up against each other, or would anything of those be similar to each other and a cut above stuff like M1 and Castrol? 3. What would probably be better for the engine: using Castrol 0w40 with 3k intervals or redline/amsoil/ravenol with a 7-8k interval?
5W is going to be good in all 48 states. So do not pay attention to that. Castrol 0W30 and 0W40 are just really good oils, so that is why people use them. I currently sue Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 in my N52, and it is smooth as silk.
Let me ask you a serious question edyvw...I am not trying to give you a hard time here... I am just wondering about the following.. Say up in eastern Montana record low -70°F , North Dakota record low -60°F, upstate NY -52°F, or Vermont -50°F record low. And say the temperature dropped to -38°F....in any of those places and you had your vehicle there .. Would a 5w truly be just fine?? I am asking because #1 the record low temps in those states are all well below -38°F.... So -38 F is not all too uncommon in those places actually... And #2....Am I thinking correct that 5w is truly good just down to and good to go MRV and CCS wise down to -35°F??? And that this is with that oil being new... And that oils are allowed to slip a grade while in service... 5w to a 10w in this case...
OK, now those are hypotheticals. At -70 tehre is no measurement how 0W performs too. Coldest place in lower 48 on average is actually here in Colorado in Gunnison Basin. There is long explanation as why, but in short it is combination of altitude, temperature inversions, dropping air etc. So, I ski close by and in winter temperatures could drop to -40 easily. Last time I skied before this started it was -34 at Arapahoe Basin. I started my cars in those temperatures regularly. I used Valvoline 5W40 MST in BMW X5 35d when I started vehicle at -37 after spending night outside. No issue whatsoever. Actually, my record low was -42c in 2003 starting Opel Vectra with 10W40 oil (engine did not like it, and I could hear valves rattling for 2-3seconds). We had a discussion about this recently. The question is what temperature is oil when you start it? If vehicle is outside for 10hrs, does that mean that oil also reached that temperature? Sure 0W would be better in those temperatures, but I personally would not lose sleep over any 5W in lower 48.
 
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The -70°F in Montana was all time record low... So... -38°F is a reference to just how much more often that happens and... Likely happens... Same with the reference to -60°F for North Dakota... -38°F happens there a good bit more often than one might think... In Cut Bank, Montana it is not uncommon to see -40 there... North Dakota last year got down quite a long way too temperature wise... And the "Polar vortex" is nothing new... I have read about it for a long time in Weather Prediction Center forecast discussions... In fact it is a quite common weather phenomena. That is relationship between record lows... And temperatures seen maybe not every year... Or maybe every 2 years... But are seen/observed every 2-4 years. And in certain times seen more often than that.... My area has seen sub 5°F temps for low temps in the winters of 2013-14, 2014-15, 2016-17, 2017-18... Actually in all those years... below 0°F temps were seen in my area... Beforee those winters the last time my area saw low right at or below 5°F was possibly in December 2004. And typically those temp prior to 2004 were on average every 3-4 years.. . Record low in my area -12°F January 21, 1985. Just me but in eastern Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Wyoming, Colorado, Minnesota, and maybe Vermont, upper New Hampshire, and Maine away from the coast aways I would run a 0w.... Just to allow more of a cold performance allowance. And yeah... I was talking about a true 8-10 hour cold start... With oil temp not moderated by anything.
 

Patman

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Why are we arguing about having too much power? That seems crazy from a gearhead point of view! LOL Seriously though, if it ends up being a problem for the OP, then he can build it stronger the next time (and make even more power!) I applaud people that push the limits of their engines, it gives others a good bit of data. If I had an M235i I would probably stick with a safe stage 1 tune and shoot for around 400hp, but only because I've got the Corvette for when I want to get my speed fix. But if the M235i was my only fun car I would definitely be tempted to push the envelope a little bit more.
 

RIPGermanCastrol

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Originally Posted by Patman
Why are we arguing about having too much power? That seems crazy from a gearhead point of view! LOL Seriously though, if it ends up being a problem for the OP, then he can build it stronger the next time (and make even more power!) I applaud people that push the limits of their engines, it gives others a good bit of data. If I had an M235i I would probably stick with a safe stage 1 tune and shoot for around 400hp, but only because I've got the Corvette for when I want to get my speed fix. But if the M235i was my only fun car I would definitely be tempted to push the envelope a little bit more.
[censored] straight. An N55 is well within its safety limits at 400hp, and you are right in that I want all I can get out of my only car. If it were to blowup for any reason, I'll just borrow Jay Powell's money printer and rebuild LOL If I didn't need the practicality, I'd have bought a vette. Best bang for the buck out there.
 
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