Really need a "high end" filter with synthetic?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 18, 2007
Messages
96
Location
midwest
I was sort of curious to know for those of you who use synthetic if it is really necessary to use the top end, 10-12 dollar oil filters that M1 make and K & N? I know some who use the cheap Purolator, (not the premium plus) and run their syns out to 5 or 6k. Are the less expensive filter going to be ok for that sort of mileage, and if you are going to run synthetic out to 7-10k, is that when it is time to consider the more expensive filters?
 
i don't think its necessary. i think the high end affordable filters are more than sufficient. namely, WIX and Purolator PureOne.
 
Quote:


if you are going to run synthetic out to 7-10k, is that when it is time to consider the more expensive filters?




Yes. Amsoil EAO for extended drains. Sleep better at night. I mean as a bitoger could you sleep at night with a Fram or SuperTech on an extended drain?

If you are only gonna go 5000 or less. Wix is a good value.
 
I just changed the oil on my brother in law's 01 Bonneville 3.8 V6 last night. 8500 miles on a Quaker State QS3387A. That mileage was over 5 1/2 months. Cheap nitrile ADBV was still holding, I cut it open and it looked like it could go another 8500.

Quaker state filters are made by Purolator but are nothing special. They are in the $2-$3 range. My point is that you don't necessarily need a $10 filter for extended drains.

I can take pictures of the cut open filter if anyone is interested.
 
Honda recommends that you re-use a standard filter for two consecutive oil changes, and that's with recommended oil change intervals of 7,500 or 10,000 miles.
 
I had 15-16k on my Mom's Nissan Purolator Premium Plus for less than a $1 after rebate. Went two synthetic OCIs - left it on b/c I didn't have another filter in the garage, like I thought. Still drained lots of oil out of it when changed last weekend. It is a good sized filter (w/o a bypass valve = more media) for a small 1.6L and 3.5qt sump, though, so I didn't sweat it.
 
I've run Old style Mobil 1's
Pure One
NAPA Gold / Wix
and many years ago the orange can of death. Never had any known isues with them.
laugh.gif


I have my severe doubts about the value of the spendy high end filters being worth the extra money. For a 6,000 OCI why nut just change out the filter at 3,000. Depending on your vehicle it may or may not be a big deal. 7,500 half of that.

For example the higher filtration filters such as PureONE are not recommended for Auto-Rx cycles due to the generally agreed upon reason that it will clog more quickly due to sludge and crud plugging it. So for this reason I used Purolator Premium for the wash cycle that I dragged out to 3,000 but I changed the filter at 1500 miles.

The filters that are a tad freer flowing will still get clogged gradually thus they will tend to go to by-pass later down the road. So my premise is that a Puralotor Premium with 4,000 miles of use may filter just as well as the PureONE new. The bigger holes in the filter media get log jammed with crud but the oil still flows around the log jam through the smaller holes. Obviously an oversized filter will go to by-pass latter due to more media area to clog.

I remember reading about better UOA wear numbers further down the road in OCI. Could this be the reson. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Can you buy 2 PureONE's for the price of one spendy long drain filter?

I would probably not skip a filter change on a PureONE but I might skip it on a shorter OCI for a NAPA gold.
 
...so spend $6.00 a quart for your oil...then worry about spending $10 for a filter instead of $5.00 ????

if you want to go premium..then go premium all the way ..:)
 
I'm running a Advance Auto Parts house brand oil filter, along with M1 High-Mileage 10w40, in my '00 GTI. I will run it for 6-7k miles, no worries.
 
Quote:


...so spend $6.00 a quart for your oil...then worry about spending $10 for a filter instead of $5.00 ????

if you want to go premium..then go premium all the way ..:)




laugh.gif
My synthetic (ML, Synpower, Q-torque/HP) is all free after rebates or $1/qt. My filters are
 
Quote:


For example the higher filtration filters such as PureONE are not recommended for Auto-Rx cycles due to the generally agreed upon reason that it will clog more quickly due to sludge and crud plugging it.




That's not what I'd say ...well, I wouldn't say it JUST that way. First I'd say that you MAY need to swap out filters often if the engine is heavily sludged and otherwise, why use a high end filter for such short service
dunno.gif


There's no sense in a higher end filter unless you're willing to leave it on long enough to offset it's added cost. Now for some, this may mean a 5k/6m OCI as opposed to a 3k/3m with dino. That is, it takes a synth and a high end filter for some to manage 6months from a confidence standpoint.

PureOne is good choice for those who don't/can't upgrade to an EaO. I used one for 13months and 9k with a particle count. It's a good performing filter for the money.
 
I use Napa Gold, on the Jeep and the Tundra and Civic, I use the Ford over sized filters these things look like coffee cans, I only run my oils 5k miles, they cost around $6 and change. If I was running 10k I would consider the EaO, how much are they anyway?
 
As a preferred customer, $12-$15+/-. Naturally, it makes sense if you're ordering other Amsoil products at the same time. The S&H starts at like $6 ..but is only about 8.xx for a case of oil.
 
I used to buy the ELF 7349's at Amsoil Dist Center for 20.05 + tax. Now I get them at work for about 9.65+ tax. So for me I will still use the high end filter. Even If I didn't get a deal.
 
Does a spin-on oil filter really do anything to clean engine wear products from the oil? Particularly on newer engines with tight dynamic clearances, it seems like it would be the 1 - 10um stuff that would be causing most wear. Even if the best filters remove 10um at some efficiency, don't they only prolong run time in the event of catastrophic failure? It seems like the best money might be invested on high quality induction air filtration.
 
Quote:


Does a spin-on oil filter really do anything to clean engine wear products from the oil? Particularly on newer engines with tight dynamic clearances, it seems like it would be the 1 - 10um stuff that would be causing most wear. Even if the best filters remove 10um at some efficiency, don't they only prolong run time in the event of catastrophic failure? It seems like the best money might be invested on high quality induction air filtration.




You should have a better air filter, better oil filter and a by-pass filter setup.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom