Quaker State Fikter

[Andya26]

Saw these for sale at my local Menards. Wondering if anyone has experience with Quaker State filters or if they're a "clone" of another brand filter.

I'm also a total newb and have seen the term ABDV used for a particular part of the filter and I cant deduce what it is if someone can explain that and maybe what to look for in terms of a filter, that'd be fabulous. Thanks in advance and I appreciate your patience.

 

[WiskyBadger]

Quaker State filters are made by Purolator. They are a Puro classic clone. The ADBV is the anti drain back valve. Black is nitrile rubber and orange is silicon. The nitrile are fine for 5,000 miles or less imo and the silicon are better for longer oci's. My experience with Quaker State filters is they are fine for short drains, I've never taken them too long.

 

[Nyogtha]

Quaker State oil filters are manufactured by Purolator to Shell specifications. The published efficiency of 95% @ 20 microns and published media composition as a synthetic blend do not match published charachteristics of the Purolator Classic oil filters.

I have purchased QS oil filters at Menards, I have some QS3600 oil filters I bought on sale for $1.99 in my stash for OPE but have moved away from being near a Menards.

Here's YouTube video of the QS filters. ZeeOSix has argued about the BPV depiction in the video but suffice to say it depicts a BPV, just not dome end.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: Nyogtha
Here's YouTube video of the QS filters. ZeeOSix has argued about the BPV depiction in the video but suffice to say it depicts a BPV, just not dome end.



What's technically inaccurate and confusing is that at time 2:36 they show a dome end bypass valve, which is nothing like they described at time 2:04 for the bypass valve. Shoddy animation IMO.

 

[bullwinkle]

Be forewarned that if you have a filter that mounts in any position but base end up, these QS filters will lose ADBV function well before 3000 miles if you run them on an engine that gets the oil hot. I was using them on my brother's old '87 Tercel 3E 1.5 beater, on which the filter screws onto the side of the block-but they would develop an annoying start-up death rattle by 1000 miles. Switched to silicone ADBV filters (FL-400S), never did it again. At least I never saw one with torn media...

 

[Andya26]

That is good to know. Glad I asked about the ADBV, this is valuable information given that my filter mounts on the side as well. Thanks bullwinkle!

 

[mjk]

I'm not sure that a single vehicle dictates whether a filter fails prematurely.

 

[Oro_O]

Originally Posted By: mjk
I'm not sure that a single vehicle dictates whether a filter fails prematurely.


Yes, they do. Just like Bullwinkle said.

We have a Lexus with the MZFE engine. The filter mounts horizontally in the left bank of the V, beneath the exhaust header and adjacent to the left bank cat. I could not get more than 2k miles out of the Purolator-made Motorcraft filters before the ADBV was consistently leaking down (and that one is silicone). I can run the same, or any, filter on my SUV w/o issue (slightly downward-oriented filter in a housing away from any heat source and with good air flow around it).

I am now running a Fram Ultra in the problem car. The current run is up to 10k miles with no noticed ADBV failures yet.

 

[Andya26]

I see quite polarizing views on Fram filters around here...lovers and haters...why is that so?

 

[Triton_330]

Originally Posted By: Andya26
I see quite polarizing views on Fram filters around here...lovers and haters...why is that so?

Fram's entry tier (Extra Guard) and middle tier (Tough Guard) filters use fiber end-caps rather than metal. While there is really nothing wrong with that "on paper" it can sometimes end up resulting like this:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4414868/Fram_Tough_Guard_3614_Cut_Open

Notice the comments - "This is why I prefer the Ultra" so on and so forth. The Ultra is Fram's top tier filter, and it uses wire-backed synthetic media with metal end-caps.

Here's a virgin Fram TG cut open, with kind of shoddy construction:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4472272/VIRGIN_FRAM_TG_3976A_CUT_OPEN

And one more - pay attention to the wide pleat spacing:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2758899

I have an Ultra on my truck right now, but it's on its second OCI because I couldn't get the doggone sonofagun off! I oiled the gasket before putting it on, and did not over tighten it when installing it, yet I (a 6 foot 220 pound 22 year old) couldn't get that filter off my truck. It's the second time a Fram has gotten stuck on my truck. The first time was with an Extra Guard a year before I joined this site. I had sworn not to use another Fram after that... but alas I came to find through BITOG that the Ultra is an excellent filter. And, it IS an excellent filter - but I'm done. I'm done with Fram after this. It's stupid of me, yes I know, it is. But having changed my own oil at least 9 or 10 times, and all the other times I could get the filters off, but not the Frams...? Truthfully it's Ford's idiotic filter location on the 5.4L Triton that makes it a huge PIA to change the filter anyway. But I've always been able to remove filters by Motorcraft, Wix, K&N, and RP off my F-150 without a problem.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: Triton_330
I have an Ultra on my truck right now, but it's on its second OCI because I couldn't get the doggone sonofagun off! I oiled the gasket before putting it on, and did not over tighten it when installing it, yet I (a 6 foot 220 pound 22 year old) couldn't get that filter off my truck. It's the second time a Fram has gotten stuck on my truck.

How much are turning the filter after initial gasket contact? I go 2/3 to 3/4 turn max on the Ultras I've used, and can always get them off by hand.

 

[Lubener]

Originally Posted By: Andya26
That is good to know. Glad I asked about the ADBV, this is valuable information given that my filter mounts on the side as well. Thanks bullwinkle!


I wouldn't worry about that itself. I never had one act up "well before" 3000 miles. I would worry about it being made by Purolator and the media issues associated with them.

 

[Triton_330]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
I have an Ultra on my truck right now, but it's on its second OCI because I couldn't get the doggone sonofagun off! I oiled the gasket before putting it on, and did not over tighten it when installing it, yet I (a 6 foot 220 pound 22 year old) couldn't get that filter off my truck. It's the second time a Fram has gotten stuck on my truck.

How much are turning the filter after initial gasket contact? I go 2/3 to 3/4 turn max on the Ultras I've used, and can always get them off by hand.

For all 10 times I've changed the oil on my truck since I've had it, just like you, I've turned the filter between 2/3 and 3/4 turn max after initial gasket contact. I've been able to remove all other brands of filters doing it that way. But I had a Fram Extra Guard get stuck in 2013 and now this Fram Ultra in 2017. It's probably just pure coincidence, but I've always been slightly superstitious, so after I get this Ultra off (which I'll probably have to take to a really strong mechanic to get it off sometime in the future), I'm not putting another Fram on my F-150. That said, I will continue to use Ultras on our other vehicles (if I can get them for a good price), or at least the ones with super-duper easy and wide-open access to the oil filter. The filter location on my 2001 Ford F-150 is mind-numbingly stupid; you risk breaking your wrist every time.

 

[jongies3]

QS, Pennzoil, and Performax filters are all the same thing with different paint on the cans, distributed by SOPUS products and built to their specs. We use the Performax filters at my work, I used to run them without issue until the "Tearolator" Purolator scare and now I no longer do just as a precaution. I have some old ones off my truck to cut open, one day when I find a decent filter cutter it'll get done! I ran them anywhere from 5000 to 7500 miles.

 

[Triton_330]

Originally Posted By: jongies3
QS, Pennzoil, and Performax filters are all the same thing with different paint on the cans, distributed by SOPUS products and built to their specs. We use the Performax filters at my work, I used to run them without issue until the "Tearolator" Purolator scare and now I no longer do just as a precaution. I have some old ones off my truck to cut open, one day when I find a decent filter cutter it'll get done! I ran them anywhere from 5000 to 7500 miles.

What about Pennzoil synthetic filters? What could we compare them to? Are they similar to Bosch D+ or Long Life? Or similar to Pure One, Purolator synthetic, or Purolator Boss?

https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-HPZ-173-Platinum-Spin-Filter/dp/B008YUEGIU/

 

[jongies3]

Originally Posted By: Triton_330
Originally Posted By: jongies3
QS, Pennzoil, and Performax filters are all the same thing with different paint on the cans, distributed by SOPUS products and built to their specs. We use the Performax filters at my work, I used to run them without issue until the "Tearolator" Purolator scare and now I no longer do just as a precaution. I have some old ones off my truck to cut open, one day when I find a decent filter cutter it'll get done! I ran them anywhere from 5000 to 7500 miles.

What about Pennzoil synthetic filters? What could we compare them to? Are they similar to Bosch D+ or Long Life? Or similar to Pure One, Purolator synthetic, or Purolator Boss?

https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-HPZ-173-Platinum-Spin-Filter/dp/B008YUEGIU/


Only way to know is cut one open, I couldn't tell you because I've never seen one inside. A few have come in on cars and when I removed them, they have what appears to be a silicon ADBV and orange baseplate gasket similar to the old yellow can PureOnes. That's all I know about them, though. I'll try to remember to grab one and save it next time one comes in and cut it open.