Pulling codes

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: ADFD1
... I might even pick up a scanner.


You should get a scanner with CAN-BUS capable, because all newer cars adapt this protocol, they can be purchased for less than $100. Innova scanners are very good for its price.

 

[GMBoy]

Originally Posted By: yeti
what tomcat said -- turn key on-off, on -off, on -and leave it in the on position. the trip odometer will read P, and 4 digits. this works for chryco products.my truck does this from time to time, and i get a P0442 code,indicating an evaporative system leak, and it's the gas cap. to clear the CEL, disconnect battery cable for about a minute. gmboy states that this doesn't work on obd2 vehicles, but i've done it successfully on several '96 plus vehicles. i don't know why it doesn't work for him. good luck.


I wasn't clear - my fault. MOST 0bd2 codes will NOT clear unless you use a scanner or the correct number of key cycles are preformed w/o failures. Some codes will drop out with a battery cable disconnect but every model year more and more do not. That is a fact. And I am much more educated in GM vehicles so I can't and shouldn't say anything for other makes. I do know ford uses a KOKO method for some testing.

 

[GMBoy]

Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
never a scanner needed unless you want one. Federal law requires the key dance to show you the codes.


could not be farther from the truth. the manufacturers providing code lookup with the key dance is not required in any way shape or form. its merely a luxury that they provide, there are MANY Fords that do not have this feature.

on my Volvo I have to use the factory scan tool to pull most codes, especially ones for the suspension.



True. There is no federal law.

 

[GMBoy]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Read somewhere some of these systems sense how much gas is in the tank and only run the test between 1/4 and 3/4 tank. So put some gas in, might shake something loose in the computer.


Also True.

 

[demarpaint]

I over heard a conversation in a local AAP with a guy and a customer. This guy had a CEL on and asked the tech to reset it for him. The tech said it was against NYS law to reset a CEL, since the CEL indicates something is wrong with the car. Had he gone to a service station for an inspection the car would have instantly failed because the CEL is on. I'm not up on the law but the story was plausable.

I think I'd try gassing it up, and disconnecting the battery for half an hour. If that doesn't work drive it for about another 100 miles. Last resort it goes back to the dealer. Plan on listening to the pitch about tire rotations, fluid exchanges, xx amount of mile service, changing air in the tires, and any other [censored] service they can think of. Just say NO!

 

[lipadj46]

Autozone and Adavanced Auto will not clear your codes anymore as once they do they are liable if you car fails after they erased a fault code. The story goes that some free loader went into an Autozone and got their codes cleared and subsequently the engine failed and then that person sued Autozone and got some money. Therefore the policy is they will read your codes but not erase them. Who knows if the story is true or not but I know the shops near me will not clear codes. You can buy a simple ODBII scanner for under $50 that will read and erase codes (nothing else though).

 

[demarpaint]

I'm interested in getting one of these scanners, since I have now moved into the newer technology. What is a good scanner to buy? Lets say in the $150 range, and where would I get one?

 

[lipadj46]

At that price get a scan gauge II and keep it hooked up and get diagnostics as a bonus.

 

[demarpaint]

I'll look into it thanks!

 

[ADFD1]

Ok so here is where I'm at with the GF's Jeep. She gassed it up, the CEL stayed on, then she told me if she used the remote start. After it started she hit the button to open the door lock & the Jeep would stall, this is not sounding to good. I said bring it to me first thing this morning & I'd disconnect the battery before headed to the base. I disconnected it for 5 minutes the CEL went out, the remote start worked as it is supposed to. I just got an email, after a 30 mile drive its running great no CEL! Fingers are crossed but I think we got it. THANKS FOR THE REPLIES!

 

[Vikas]

How many cars do you have between yourself and your GF? You can buy the cheap $40 reader now and then buy another with more features later and keep one in each car.

You do know that if she had visited the dealer, he would have reset the code, charged her $$$ and then told her to bring it back if the code comes back. He would have done ZERO diagnosis except hook up the scanner (about 30second worth of job).

I can not believe that of all the people in this forum, you have no code reader :-(

- Vikas

 

[ADFD1]

My truck is pre 1996, I count a blinking red light on my scanner. I'm single moved across the country and any tools I needed my father had. Those tools are 3000 miles away

. As far as the GF, she's pretty new, but she's worth getting a code reader for.

 

[demarpaint]

Glad you resolved the GF's issue. Beats going back to the dealer for anything. The less they mess with your car the better off you'll be!

 

[mechanicx]

Originally Posted By: lipadj46
Autozone and Adavanced Auto will not clear your codes anymore as once they do they are liable if you car fails after they erased a fault code. The story goes that some free loader went into an Autozone and got their codes cleared and subsequently the engine failed and then that person sued Autozone and got some money. Therefore the policy is they will read your codes but not erase them. Who knows if the story is true or not but I know the shops near me will not clear codes. You can buy a simple ODBII scanner for under $50 that will read and erase codes (nothing else though).


My brother works for AZ. There's always someone coming in trying to freeload or scam some repair off AZ's dime. Typically it's a woman, just saying.

 

[mechanicx]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'm interested in getting one of these scanners, since I have now moved into the newer technology. What is a good scanner to buy? Lets say in the $150 range, and where would I get one?


A scanner I have for my personal use is an Innova. You can get them online or even at Walmart. But you can get a better deal on a higher model online. Other brands like Actron might be OK too. A lot of people mention scan guage but I don't want to take my lap top to a car if that's how they work. If you were going to get an Innova, I would probably go for the top of the line OBDII one that can also read ABS codes. I've seen it for $199. That one or the one just below it, will give you most all pwertrain info that you need. To get much bettr than that or to get bidirectional capability, flash EEPROMS, and read BCM codes you are going to need a scanner costing thousands more maybe even a factory scanner. I think it's baloney that the automakers keep the BCM codes not accessible.

But the Innova 3130 that's next to the top of the line does a lot other than ABS. It gives you freez frame, lets you pick valus that you ant to see or PIDs, gives most all sensor values and powertrain codes etc. If you look around you might find one for under $150.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'm interested in getting one of these scanners, since I have now moved into the newer technology. What is a good scanner to buy? Lets say in the $150 range, and where would I get one?


A scanner I have for my personal use is an Innova. You can get them online or even at Walmart. But you can get a better deal on a higher model online. Other brands like Actron might be OK too. A lot of people mention scan guage but I don't want to take my lap top to a car if that's how they work. If you were going to get an Innova, I would probably go for the top of the line OBDII one that can also read ABS codes. I've seen it for $199. That one or the one just below it, will give you most all pwertrain info that you need. To get much bettr than that or to get bidirectional capability, flash EEPROMS, and read BCM codes you are going to need a scanner costing thousands more maybe even a factory scanner. I think it's baloney that the automakers keep the BCM codes not accessible.

But the Innova 3130 that's next to the top of the line does a lot other than ABS. It gives you freez frame, lets you pick valus that you ant to see or PIDs, gives most all sensor values and powertrain codes etc. If you look around you might find one for under $150.


Thanks! What is the model # for the $199 unit? I want to be sure I check out the model you're referring to. Sounds like a good investment. Do they work on the 2010 and 2011 model cars?

 

[mechanicx]

The top of the line one I was mentioning that does ABS and everything is the 3160. I think some places have it as low as $199. I don't know if it's better than the Actrons but Innovas seem to give you more features for less cost. They work on all models of OBDII. Mine has worked fine so far. You can see it here, and towards the bottom of the page is a chart that compares all the models:

Innova 3160

 

[demarpaint]

Thanks!

 

[mechanicx]

If you don't care about ABS codes, this Actron looks like a good deal. I don't think Actrons do ABS, not sure. I don't know which is better between the Innova and Actron. I haven't used the Actron much.


Actron 9180

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: mechanicx
The top of the line one I was mentioning that does ABS and everything is the 3160. I think some places have it as low as $199. I don't know if it's better than the Actrons but Innovas seem to give you more features for less cost. They work on all models of OBDII. Mine has worked fine so far. You can see it here, and towards the bottom of the page is a chart that compares all the models:

Innova 3160



The 3160 can handle 1982-1995 vehicles as well?