Do you really need rotors? What is spec and what was measured? Miles on car?
As The Critic mentioned those complete Honda prices are not realistic.
As The Critic mentioned those complete Honda prices are not realistic.
Prices for front brake job
- Thread starter mclasser
- Start date
JHZR2
Staff member
Exactly. It was just the section of things they sell.
After 94k the bushings on our odyssey showed a bit of wear but not enough for it to seem to matter. Next time I’ll replace them.
JHZR2
Staff member
No I just took a screen shot of all the brake parts for sale from an OE Honda parts discounter. The pads were at the top and the rotor at the bottom.
They likely would reuse all except maybe the stainless clips that the pads slide on.
Find time and DIY. For that money you can get EBC rotors that for sure won’t vibrate which is always “option “ using OE Honda brakes.
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2023
- Messages
- 980
these days aftermarket parts are producing duds, and if you are not diying this job, good luck getting any mechanic to redo the job for free.
i dislike saying this, but id rather just pay a local mechanic for their own parts, if any problems its their issue not mine.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with saying this or having that opinion. How many people call an HVAC tech and say "I bought a new furnace, sheet metal, and a bunch of parts. When can you install it ?" ? If a shop/mechanic will install your parts, it's great, but no one should ever, ever expect any warranty or help afterwards. Pay 'em to install the parts and it's done. Again, if they are willing to help, be grateful.
Amen.
I'd buy the parts on Rock Auto - then if I didn't have an impact I'd buy an impact from Ye Olde Harbor Freight (electric is good enough for me) and still save about tree-fiddy
Sure, it's competitive and reasonable but tree-fiddy is tree-fiddy.
At that price, if I was your neighbor, I'd cut you a deal to do a great job on your pilot. If you didn't want me touching your car, I'd make time to cut your grass or fold your laundry so you could make time to DIY.
I've never spent longer on a brake job than it takes for me drive to a mechanic and deal with their "process", much less a dealer. That includes cleaning and lubing the slider pins. It's always been an easy after-dinner job. Granted, I don't deal with rust. I know the guy, so he usually measures tread depth and rotates my tires "for free" if needed, since he already has two wheels off.
My truck was $70 for OE pads and rotors, but I scored a deal on those parts (amazon open box returns). Toyota pads were recently $75 from the dealer. Rotors for it were $80 and that was only because it was less of a hassle then paying to have them turned (and ruined) at the local O'reilly's. I gave $20 for a set of "open box" fomoco pads for our mazda from Amazon.
As long as I can I'll be doing my own brake jobs. $500+ is ridiculous for anything that doesn't include new OE rotors, calipers, and a full bleed job on both axles...at least on any car I'll ever drive.
I've never spent longer on a brake job than it takes for me drive to a mechanic and deal with their "process", much less a dealer. That includes cleaning and lubing the slider pins. It's always been an easy after-dinner job. Granted, I don't deal with rust. I know the guy, so he usually measures tread depth and rotates my tires "for free" if needed, since he already has two wheels off.
My truck was $70 for OE pads and rotors, but I scored a deal on those parts (amazon open box returns). Toyota pads were recently $75 from the dealer. Rotors for it were $80 and that was only because it was less of a hassle then paying to have them turned (and ruined) at the local O'reilly's. I gave $20 for a set of "open box" fomoco pads for our mazda from Amazon.
As long as I can I'll be doing my own brake jobs. $500+ is ridiculous for anything that doesn't include new OE rotors, calipers, and a full bleed job on both axles...at least on any car I'll ever drive.
Obviously time is an issue for you... use the local shop.
My latest Amazon warehouse purchase: 1/14/2024 Wagner BD180583E Brake Rotor $8.49x2 Fits 2017/22 HAH. I won't need them for years since I just changed my 2017 and 2022 only has 5k miles but when that day comes, it will be another inexpensive brake job.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LHC49K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1
$13.03 . Used: Very Good. If you get it, don't like it return it at Kohls...................wait you don't have time. Nevermind.
Fits
Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LHC49K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1
$13.03 . Used: Very Good. If you get it, don't like it return it at Kohls...................wait you don't have time. Nevermind.
Fits
| ACURA | MDX | 2007-2013 |
| ACURA | RLX | 2017-2018 |
| ACURA | ZDX | 2010-2013 |
| HONDA | PILOT | 2009-2015 |
Last edited:
I ended up paying $750 for my neon for a local shop but I'm in Colorado where apparently everyone overcharges. The shop that I've previously used and were fair wanted $1375.
, so $430 to me is a downright steal.
My dad actually did that with the brand new furnace my parents purchased. Unfortunately there is no warranty from the installer. But it did save my parents $8,000.
Do it right and do it once.
I'd look and see if I could reuse the rotors. Worst case... do a pad slap. If the rotors are bad, perhaps you will buy enough time to redo at some later date, when you have the time to do it yourself, with new rotors.
I'm in the camp of, if you have time to drive 30 miles and back, you have time to do a pad slap.
I did farm out recently an alternator job, but I wasn't 100% sure it was the problem, and the job was a few hours of effort--and I couldn't have the downtime in the timeslot I had open to do the work. And I had a fear of breaking something else while in there and being in a worse bind than before. So I understand the OP's predicament, but I just think, a pad slap is both easy/fast and low risk. Worst case is that you find a seized caliper? at that point you put the old pads on and farm it out, if you don't want to touch that.
I'm in the camp of, if you have time to drive 30 miles and back, you have time to do a pad slap.
I did farm out recently an alternator job, but I wasn't 100% sure it was the problem, and the job was a few hours of effort--and I couldn't have the downtime in the timeslot I had open to do the work. And I had a fear of breaking something else while in there and being in a worse bind than before. So I understand the OP's predicament, but I just think, a pad slap is both easy/fast and low risk. Worst case is that you find a seized caliper? at that point you put the old pads on and farm it out, if you don't want to touch that.
I would split the deal. Use the Indy around the corner, but insist on the genuine parts. If he has a problem with that, find another shop.
For something like brakes, an extra $100 or so per axle on a mainstream make to avoid aftermarket surprises and disappointments is money well spent. The braking dynamics will usually be optimal for the longest time. Only drawback is sometimes semi metallic genuine pads can run a little dirtier. Labor is a large percentage of the cost of any decent brake job anyway. These are not Ferrari parts.
The only time I’ll deviate from that practice is where the geniune part has been discontinued, or the price becomes completely insane, as happened several years back with our R129 on a four corner brake job. So there we used the $100 Zimmermanns over the discontinued $300 MB discs. Everything else was genuine, though. And the vehicle has performed flawlessly on the lovely Zimmermanns.
For something like brakes, an extra $100 or so per axle on a mainstream make to avoid aftermarket surprises and disappointments is money well spent. The braking dynamics will usually be optimal for the longest time. Only drawback is sometimes semi metallic genuine pads can run a little dirtier. Labor is a large percentage of the cost of any decent brake job anyway. These are not Ferrari parts.
The only time I’ll deviate from that practice is where the geniune part has been discontinued, or the price becomes completely insane, as happened several years back with our R129 on a four corner brake job. So there we used the $100 Zimmermanns over the discontinued $300 MB discs. Everything else was genuine, though. And the vehicle has performed flawlessly on the lovely Zimmermanns.
I think the price provided to the original poster was very much in line with the market and a fair price.
I can do brakes but I cannot turn the rotors, and I don’t have a machine shop I trust to do it correctly. So when I needed brakes on my 4Runner, I priced new rotors and pads plus some hardware I would typically change like the clips. I forget the exact price because this was a year ago but the parts front and rear ran about $800 plus with shipping. Since I knew the rotors were good, I found a local shop to do the work, and I requested Toyota pads. Price of front and rear pads, resurfaced rotors, cleaning up parking brake drums, and brake flush was $900. I thought that it was fair.
Now I know some say just slap on new pads but I do not believe that is the correct way to do the job so for me it was a choice of tossing rotors that still had plenty of life or putting on new Toyota rotors.
The high prices here do not surprise me however. Despite what our government masters say, inflation is nowhere near under control and the escalation of prices that people buy regularly is easily up 20-30 percent in the last three years. The car dealers and the shops make up their increased costs by charging us more. It is a difficult time to manage one’s finances prudently. Thankfully a lot of us have some knowledge of our vehicles that we can put to good use.
I can do brakes but I cannot turn the rotors, and I don’t have a machine shop I trust to do it correctly. So when I needed brakes on my 4Runner, I priced new rotors and pads plus some hardware I would typically change like the clips. I forget the exact price because this was a year ago but the parts front and rear ran about $800 plus with shipping. Since I knew the rotors were good, I found a local shop to do the work, and I requested Toyota pads. Price of front and rear pads, resurfaced rotors, cleaning up parking brake drums, and brake flush was $900. I thought that it was fair.
Now I know some say just slap on new pads but I do not believe that is the correct way to do the job so for me it was a choice of tossing rotors that still had plenty of life or putting on new Toyota rotors.
The high prices here do not surprise me however. Despite what our government masters say, inflation is nowhere near under control and the escalation of prices that people buy regularly is easily up 20-30 percent in the last three years. The car dealers and the shops make up their increased costs by charging us more. It is a difficult time to manage one’s finances prudently. Thankfully a lot of us have some knowledge of our vehicles that we can put to good use.
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2013
- Messages
- 3,221
Update: I found some time this weekend and DIY'ed. Took about 3 hours, most of which was spent fighting rusty caliper bracket bolts.
Outgoing pads were Akebono and incoming OE Honda. The Akebonos performed great and I was considering using again but the Honda pads only cost $10 more.
Outgoing and incoming rotors were Centric Premiums. I am sold on these rotors for all my cars. They developed a slight pedal pulsation but only after 50k+ miles, whereas the junk factory Honda rotors starting pulsed after only 10k miles. IME, generic parts store rotors begin pulsing at 30k+ miles.
Thanks to everybody that recommended I just make the time to DIY!
Outgoing pads were Akebono and incoming OE Honda. The Akebonos performed great and I was considering using again but the Honda pads only cost $10 more.
Outgoing and incoming rotors were Centric Premiums. I am sold on these rotors for all my cars. They developed a slight pedal pulsation but only after 50k+ miles, whereas the junk factory Honda rotors starting pulsed after only 10k miles. IME, generic parts store rotors begin pulsing at 30k+ miles.
Thanks to everybody that recommended I just make the time to DIY!
Last edited:
Similar threads
