Premium "conventional" or bargain "synthetic"

Joined
Jan 18, 2003
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320
Location
Dallas, TX
Here's something I've been wondering for a LONG time....

Which is better, going with premium brands like Pennzoil(PYB), Castrol GTX, etc... but in their conventional line, or going with a more bargain brand like STP, SuperTech, Quaker State, etc... except in their highest-end "synthetic" line?
 
To me, it's about meeting the required engine MFG spec. For example, if a bargain brand synthetic meets the spec but premium brand mineral doesn't, then that makes the choice easy.

Also, there aren't too many truly conventional oils left out there these days. Most are at least syn blends.
 
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I see PYB conventional at WalMart for $18.xx and Supertech Advanced Full Synthetic (20k oil) for $16.xx. Both meet current oil specs, so Supertech would be my choice.
My thinking exactly. Many bargain full syn oils have good specs and meet the current manufacturer’s standards (Dexos for example). It does depend on the application of course. Make sure that the bargain priced oil meets the manufacturer spec for your car or truck.
 
Forget all the spec nonsense. I can't stand the cert police here...😀😀

Yes, do use the correct oil but sit in your lazy boy and pick the prettiest bottle you can find with all of the wonderful promises. Read and re-read the label many times.

Oil is comfort food for your car. Use what gives you the warm fuzzy's
Dare to be different....😀
 
Very few cars require synthetic* so there's no risk in using a conventional oil. Thing is, the price of synthetic or especially synthetic blend, it's not a financial issue anymore. There's absolutely nothing wrong with Supertech's synthetic and it's what, $16/5 quarts vs a name-brand conventional for ~$20. Some people are hung up on "names" though or believe Supertech (Walmart) oil is recycled, garbage oil, using bare minimum additives or low-quality additives (just because "it's Walmart").

* Don't need examples of vehicles that do....
 
Third party oil changes big spread in cost. Do it yourself, small spread in cost. FWIW changing my own isn't allowed in my condo. VWB burns down one quart in 2000 miles, both ST syn and QS all mileage (I guess, it's still considered conventional by Wally even though it's a blend) maybe one quart in five K. So the twenty buck QS change is my new go to. If I were changing my own I'd probably go to Costco.
 
No such animal exist.

These jokers sure do charge a premium price for their conventional...

Screenshot_20210611-190637.jpg
 
Why are they jokers? You wouldn’t use this racing oil in a street car, it’s specialized for a specific purpose. Stuff like that is always expensive.
And it’s $8+ quart … when Driven makes racing oil with mPAO it’s up to $14+ quart …
 
Why not bargain conventional? With all the UOAs I've run, and all the data I've collected, most any situation is well handled by the least expensive API approved lube you can find. I've literally run RK conventional against brand name syns and the wear rates showed no statistically significant difference.
 
Totally disagree. Put that in a turbo engine (or any modern engine for that matter) that are becoming much more common and you can have huge problems. Most manufacturers specifically require synthetic oil. Dino may have a place in some old lump but not in modern high tech engines IMO.
I would even go as far as saying it has no place on the shelves today.

For all gasoline engines - fully synthetic engine oil - approved
against the GM-LL-A025 specification - with viscosity SAE 0W-
30 or 0W-40.
 
Why are they jokers? You wouldn’t use this racing oil in a street car, it’s specialized for a specific purpose. Stuff like that is always expensive.
And it’s $8+ quart … when Driven makes racing oil with mPAO it’s up to $14+ quart …

Because 5qt jug of Mobil1 15w-50 is $22.37+tax at WalMart and you will be hard pressed to find an oil related issue when M1 15w50 was used in a racing application. Even if some additives are added (Like Lubegard Biotech, not the cheap snake oil) it still comes out much cheaper and will most likely work just as well if not better than that "racing" conventional.
 
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