I'm about 500 miles into my second run of PP on my Buick. I checked it today and I added over 1/4 quart. That would put me at 1 quart per 1500-2000 miles (my first run of PP used 1 quart in under 1500 miles), instead of the 1 quart per 3000-3500 miles that it's used on Motorcraft, M1, and Napa Syn. I like PP, but if it's going to use this much, I'm rethinking my choice. I'd like to stay with a synthetic because of the winter cold. GM specs a 5w30 at all temperatures. I'm not interested in extended drains (will follow OLM at the most). I'm not sure of the maintenance history before I bought it about 10k ago, but I'd guess conventional changed often, based on the cleanliness of what I can see through the fill tube. So, I'm thinking about going back to either Motorcraft blend or Napa Syn/Valvoline Synpower but would consider Maxlife or Mobil 1 high mileage (the new SN), what would you recommend? (I had just decided on PP... now my choice is harder) So, what do you all think? I wanted to give PP a chance, but it's drinking it this OCI too. Thanks.
PP burning really fast-which other oil to use?
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I'd put a new oem pcv valve in and switch to Valvoline Maxlife full synthetic or the syn blend. I'm running the full syn ML now and like it. Has 7k on it now and will probably go 8500 on it.
This happens on occasion when switching brands, and in most instances will return to normal after a few runs, sometimes. If it doesn't switch back to an oil that you didn't have consumption issues with.
Sometimes it takes more than one OCI for things to stabilize. Only you can decide if you're willing to be patient enough to see it through. On the other hand, you may eventually have to return to one of your previous choices. One would think the PCV valve would still be good, but one never knows. If it's a cheap/easy fix, go for it. I suggest that your use of the OEM one was wise, too.
Quote:
PP burning really fast
Seriously though, try MaxLife. Some synthetics are just better at weeping their way out than others.
PP burning really fast
Seriously though, try MaxLife. Some synthetics are just better at weeping their way out than others.
+1 These oils are known to be good cleaners at the piston ring area, as they remove varnish and deposits accumulated over the years oil tends to get past the rings for a time. Chances are it will subside and get back to normal but likely with better compression.
One example comes to mind. I started using using Mobil 1 0w40 (old formula) in a VW that was using about a qt per 1K, it had 170 psi on all 4, after about 15K it was using nothing measurable on the stick but the compression was over 200 on all 4 and noticeably stronger and easier starting cold.
One example comes to mind. I started using using Mobil 1 0w40 (old formula) in a VW that was using about a qt per 1K, it had 170 psi on all 4, after about 15K it was using nothing measurable on the stick but the compression was over 200 on all 4 and noticeably stronger and easier starting cold.
First of all, have you checked the CCV is not blocked ??
Penn Plat is a low friction oil, so if you compare the oil consumption with a dino based oil of the same viscosity I would not be surprised it burns slightly more. Same for all FS oils when used in worn blocks.
All you need do is to add half a can of a major brand stop leak additive to convert it to a real good GTL HM oil.
Trying to figure out if an engine is sludged up by looking down the filler, only tends to reveal if the block is seriously sludged up, as sludge accumulates mostly in the sump. You can sometimes see if it has varnish deposits by looking down the filler. If you use a well equiped garage you can use a borescope down the filler AND through the sump plug to see if the sump or oil pump intake are sludged up.
Penn Plat is a low friction oil, so if you compare the oil consumption with a dino based oil of the same viscosity I would not be surprised it burns slightly more. Same for all FS oils when used in worn blocks.
All you need do is to add half a can of a major brand stop leak additive to convert it to a real good GTL HM oil.
Trying to figure out if an engine is sludged up by looking down the filler, only tends to reveal if the block is seriously sludged up, as sludge accumulates mostly in the sump. You can sometimes see if it has varnish deposits by looking down the filler. If you use a well equiped garage you can use a borescope down the filler AND through the sump plug to see if the sump or oil pump intake are sludged up.
We are now using Mobil 1 with no issues it's a great oil and it's sold everywhere because people buy it!
We tried PP and qsud which we liked more than PP but so far M1 is our favorite..
I originally changed to Mobil because Mobil has a double security seal on all their jugs and decided to stay with Mobil for the long haul. I have to say Pennzoil yellow bottle kept my engines pretty clean over the years but im pretty sure Mobil will be just as good at keeping my engines clean.
We tried PP and qsud which we liked more than PP but so far M1 is our favorite..
I originally changed to Mobil because Mobil has a double security seal on all their jugs and decided to stay with Mobil for the long haul. I have to say Pennzoil yellow bottle kept my engines pretty clean over the years but im pretty sure Mobil will be just as good at keeping my engines clean.
So far in having the best luck with M1 high mileage.
Normal rate for me is 1qt/4000 miles. PP Was 1qt/2000 miles. My first fill of M1HM was 1qt/5000, now on my second run of the M1 I haven't had to add yet and I'm at the 5000 mark.
Give it a try....
Normal rate for me is 1qt/4000 miles. PP Was 1qt/2000 miles. My first fill of M1HM was 1qt/5000, now on my second run of the M1 I haven't had to add yet and I'm at the 5000 mark.
Give it a try....
Originally Posted By: Trav
+1 These oils are known to be good cleaners at the piston ring area, as they remove varnish and deposits accumulated over the years oil tends to get past the rings for a time. Chances are it will subside and get back to normal but likely with better compression.
One example comes to mind. I started using using Mobil 1 0w40 (old formula) in a VW that was using about a qt per 1K, it had 170 psi on all 4, after about 15K it was using nothing measurable on the stick but the compression was over 200 on all 4 and noticeably stronger and easier starting cold.
Very correct, I was only thinking of what happens as regards bad valve guide oil seals, not the rings.
If an engine has any oil leaks, changing to a real good GTL or G4 full synthetic can also cause a slight increase in leak rate, although that is often due just to the false oil seal effect if a low detergent oil was used before.
Thats why you hear some old oil types saying it's a bad idea to switch from dino to FS if the engine is worn. In reality it's only a bad idea if you are not checking the oil often enough or don't want to use some stop leak.
+1 These oils are known to be good cleaners at the piston ring area, as they remove varnish and deposits accumulated over the years oil tends to get past the rings for a time. Chances are it will subside and get back to normal but likely with better compression.
One example comes to mind. I started using using Mobil 1 0w40 (old formula) in a VW that was using about a qt per 1K, it had 170 psi on all 4, after about 15K it was using nothing measurable on the stick but the compression was over 200 on all 4 and noticeably stronger and easier starting cold.
Very correct, I was only thinking of what happens as regards bad valve guide oil seals, not the rings.
If an engine has any oil leaks, changing to a real good GTL or G4 full synthetic can also cause a slight increase in leak rate, although that is often due just to the false oil seal effect if a low detergent oil was used before.
Thats why you hear some old oil types saying it's a bad idea to switch from dino to FS if the engine is worn. In reality it's only a bad idea if you are not checking the oil often enough or don't want to use some stop leak.
Originally Posted By: Trav
+1 These oils are known to be good cleaners at the piston ring area, as they remove varnish and deposits accumulated over the years oil tends to get past the rings for a time. Chances are it will subside and get back to normal but likely with better compression.
One example comes to mind. I started using using Mobil 1 0w40 (old formula) in a VW that was using about a qt per 1K, it had 170 psi on all 4, after about 15K it was using nothing measurable on the stick but the compression was over 200 on all 4 and noticeably stronger and easier starting cold.
Excellent, glad to hear this has been your experience.
+1 These oils are known to be good cleaners at the piston ring area, as they remove varnish and deposits accumulated over the years oil tends to get past the rings for a time. Chances are it will subside and get back to normal but likely with better compression.
One example comes to mind. I started using using Mobil 1 0w40 (old formula) in a VW that was using about a qt per 1K, it had 170 psi on all 4, after about 15K it was using nothing measurable on the stick but the compression was over 200 on all 4 and noticeably stronger and easier starting cold.
Excellent, glad to hear this has been your experience.
Originally Posted By: TmanP
I replaced the PCV valve with an OEM kit less than a year ago, that should be still good, right?
Yep PCV should still be good.
Now that you have PP in the sump, keep going for this OCI, but let it drop further on the stick before you top-up. Close to the fill mark.
Yes usage will probably settle down, but I never had the patience for this. Too many good oils out there to try. Have you tried Castrol Magnatec 5W30 or Valvoline SynPower / MaxLife ? All good and well respected oils.
I don't use M1, as it's waaay too expensive in Australia, but plain vanilla M1 5W30 has always struck me as a well designed and well balanced product. For you in the USA it's both cheap and everywhere. Plus you already know it burns less on M1.
Finish this OCI and move on. Give some of that smooth Magnatec juice a go or go back to good old M1. Just my 2 cents.
I replaced the PCV valve with an OEM kit less than a year ago, that should be still good, right?
Yep PCV should still be good.
Now that you have PP in the sump, keep going for this OCI, but let it drop further on the stick before you top-up. Close to the fill mark.
Yes usage will probably settle down, but I never had the patience for this. Too many good oils out there to try. Have you tried Castrol Magnatec 5W30 or Valvoline SynPower / MaxLife ? All good and well respected oils.
I don't use M1, as it's waaay too expensive in Australia, but plain vanilla M1 5W30 has always struck me as a well designed and well balanced product. For you in the USA it's both cheap and everywhere. Plus you already know it burns less on M1.
Finish this OCI and move on. Give some of that smooth Magnatec juice a go or go back to good old M1. Just my 2 cents.
Originally Posted By: Trav
+1 These oils are known to be good cleaners at the piston ring area, as they remove varnish and deposits accumulated over the years oil tends to get past the rings for a time. Chances are it will subside and get back to normal but likely with better compression.
One example comes to mind. I started using using Mobil 1 0w40 (old formula) in a VW that was using about a qt per 1K, it had 170 psi on all 4, after about 15K it was using nothing measurable on the stick but the compression was over 200 on all 4 and noticeably stronger and easier starting cold.
I had the exact same experience. After running PP for a few OCI's the compression came back up to factory specs. I first used PP in the Matrix at 160k miles and it must have cleaned the internals up nicely.
+1 These oils are known to be good cleaners at the piston ring area, as they remove varnish and deposits accumulated over the years oil tends to get past the rings for a time. Chances are it will subside and get back to normal but likely with better compression.
One example comes to mind. I started using using Mobil 1 0w40 (old formula) in a VW that was using about a qt per 1K, it had 170 psi on all 4, after about 15K it was using nothing measurable on the stick but the compression was over 200 on all 4 and noticeably stronger and easier starting cold.
I had the exact same experience. After running PP for a few OCI's the compression came back up to factory specs. I first used PP in the Matrix at 160k miles and it must have cleaned the internals up nicely.
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Originally Posted By: hatt
I'd simply go back to one of the oils that used less oil or pick up something else cheap and try that.
Good advice. Why put expensive synthetic in an oil burner?
It doesn't seem like it really burns that much. It's a 10 year old car with 150K and normal OCI. Any of the major brand and reputable store brand oils with the proper specs are good enough.
Keep an eye on rebates. Most of the time you can buy flagship synthetic oil for less that $15 a 5 qt jug.
Originally Posted By: hatt
I'd simply go back to one of the oils that used less oil or pick up something else cheap and try that.
Good advice. Why put expensive synthetic in an oil burner?
It doesn't seem like it really burns that much. It's a 10 year old car with 150K and normal OCI. Any of the major brand and reputable store brand oils with the proper specs are good enough.
Keep an eye on rebates. Most of the time you can buy flagship synthetic oil for less that $15 a 5 qt jug.
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