Post your latest parts purchase

22 one time use bolts for a spring/strut/damper install on my 20 Tiguan. Heavy bolts. Prior to that was a full LED headlight (complete housings, not just bulbs) install on same vehicle. Waiting on lowering springs ordered before I tackle the big box o' parts for a full suspension overhaul on the DadWagon (2010 Passat wagon).
 
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For moms 2017 Camry. Due for service in about 400 miles. Both the filters especially the cabin are dirty. I could of gotten them from work but the stuff is so much cheaper at Walmart even after my discount at work. I still have one drain plug gasket I’ll get some more of those at work.
 
Raybestos E3 front brake rotor/ pad kit and a Wix oil filter for the Rav4 from Rock Auto. Normally I have the shop down the road from my work do this sort of thing but my work schedule changed (evenings and nights for the next 3 weeks) so I figured it would be quicker to DIY in our garage at our plant when I get off work Saturday morning. The fronts have over 100,000 miles on them and I want to service them before the harsh MN winter kicks in. Oh, got some Pennzoil 5/30 full syn from Walmart too.
 
Brake pads for the WJ. Went with the cheapest option on RA at the time: $14 for wholesaler closeout ceramic pads. Received a set of pads in an UltraPower box, with UltraPower and the PN stamped on the pads themselves.

Given current part pricing, I feel I got a good deal. The current pads cost $9 a couple years ago, an they were semi-metallic compound. I'll be reusing the rotors, as the price on those has skyrocketed and the truck stops smooth and straight.
 
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I don't know if I'm a fan of Fumoto or not. We shall see.

The 106 is for the new pan that's going on the Legend. After +25 years of R&R'ing the drain plug (with a torque wrench) it finally stripped the pan ~9 years ago. I wrapped a Sure Drain with sealing tape and jammed it into the stripped hole for future oil changes.

The 124 might be used for drain/refills for the A650E in the Lexus; I don't have a helper for a cooler line exchange. Remove the plug, install the Fumoto and do the next fills/drains, replace the Fumoto with the plug after the final drain.
 
paulo57509 said:
View attachment 124350

I don't know if I'm a fan of Fumoto or not. We shall see.

The 106 is for the new pan that's going on the Legend. After +25 years of R&R'ing the drain plug (with a torque wrench) it finally stripped the pan ~9 years ago. I wrapped a Sure Drain with sealing tape and jammed it into the stripped hole for future oil changes.

The 124 might be used for drain/refills for the A650E in the Lexus; I don't have a helper for a cooler line exchange. Remove the plug, install the Fumoto and do the next fills/drains, replace the Fumoto with the plug after the final drain.
Click to expand...
Received the last Fumoto valve. This one is for the LS400 engine. Not to worried about road debris as the Lexus has an engine under cover. However, I wasn't expecting a repackaged valve. I'm thinking it's the CA Prop 65 warning (the other two don't have this). :unsure:

FWIW, the first two were sold by Amazon; this one was also purchased through Amazon but sold by a third party.

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New alternative for my brother in laws 1988 Dodge Dakota. He didn’t want an expensive one so this is what I was able to find from Auto Plus through work it was like $72. Next thing it will need is brakes but we want to make sure it’s going to run first.
 
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I'm buying all my Motorcraft fluids/chemicals from RockAuto, because I'm scared of counterfeits from Amazon
These bottles look a little different than the one I bought off Amazon just a month or two ago, I'm gonna compare & contrast
It's also cheaper
  1. $25 Mercon LV
  2. $4 spot remover
  3. $12 leather cleaner
 
I put a new clutch disc and hardware along with a motor mount and new ball joints in my rusty '08 Accent. 188K on the OE and the input shaft grease dried out making the throw out bearing hang up when hot. Still plenty of clutch left otherwise.
 
Not car parts, but just ordered a CRE2-33 suspension and wet bolt/shackle upgrade kit for the camper.

Being a high quality unit (Just like every other camper made these days just about), they ship with plastic bushings in the springs and shackles, so before we go on any longer trips I wanted to do the upgrade since it also adds zerks to the pivot points. People usually don't get many more than 5000 miles out of the plastic bushings before they are shredded.

As for the suspension, well, why not. After it warms up a little and I get these installed, I have a set of higher speed/load rated tires in the garage to mount up and I'll be done with the travelin upgrades.



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Timken rear wheel bearings for a 2010 Honda Civic. Checked and they include o-rings on the back of the unit despite reviews saying they don’t. Saved me a trip to the dealer (I was planning to reuse the old orings anyways.)

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The Connect's blades needed to be replaced went to costco and purchased ( 1 ) 26'' blade for the drivers side & ( 1 ) 24'' blade for the passenger side. Did the odd ball size because the passenger side blade is actually rolling off the side of the windshield and hitting the pillar.
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LostInTransit said:
The Connect's blades needed to be replaced went to costco and purchased ( 1 ) 26'' blade for the drivers side & ( 1 ) 24'' blade for the passenger side. Did the odd ball size because the passenger side blade is actually rolling off the side of the windshield and hitting the pillar.
View attachment 133762
Click to expand...

For a few years we drove a Ford that needed 20's and a GM that used 22's. It was great because I'd try to just stock 21's for both.

With most everything I've ever owned I'll go +/- 1".....ya figure that's only 1/2" per end, not a big deal for most vehicles. I'm sure there are exceptions
 
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