Post Your Latest (Motorcycle) Oil Change!
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Hermann
Site Donor 2023
2021 BMW F900xr - 5450 miles on oil. - in service 13 months - I did this change myself at 6008 miles on the bike.
Out: BMW Advantec 5w-40 and BMW OEM oil filter
In: The same-3 Quarts and new BMW OEM oil filter
The oil that came out was visually in good shape. I know it means nothing. Will do a UOA next time.
Out: BMW Advantec 5w-40 and BMW OEM oil filter
In: The same-3 Quarts and new BMW OEM oil filter
The oil that came out was visually in good shape. I know it means nothing. Will do a UOA next time.
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A new to me 2001 CB750 Nighthawk.
37,594 miles on bike, unknown mileage or time on oil.
Out/off: Honda GN4 10w-40 (previous owner thinks) and an OEM Honda filter.
In/on: Peak 15w-40 and a Fram Ultra 3593A filter.
This will be an annual oil change vehicle, probably around 2000 miles, but almost all will be short trips.
37,594 miles on bike, unknown mileage or time on oil.
Out/off: Honda GN4 10w-40 (previous owner thinks) and an OEM Honda filter.
In/on: Peak 15w-40 and a Fram Ultra 3593A filter.
This will be an annual oil change vehicle, probably around 2000 miles, but almost all will be short trips.
GS850, with experimental fuel setup, chasing optimal settings and having a couple of dodgy detours on the way.
Out: Comma 5w50 synth Racing Oil after it got punished for a couple hundred miles at 150degC - it looked and smelled slightly burnt when it came out. I'd not really believed the assertion that heavier oil runs hotter, but combined with a slightly lean AFR, it contributed to that.
In: Mannol 5w40 Extreme, synth (likely semi-synth). Oil temp is now peaking at 125degC.
For safety's sake, I'll be fitting an oil cooler soon, to avoid the overheating edge while I work on fuelling a bit more. The bike is normally used for local pottering around but it gets ridden hard.
Out: Comma 5w50 synth Racing Oil after it got punished for a couple hundred miles at 150degC - it looked and smelled slightly burnt when it came out. I'd not really believed the assertion that heavier oil runs hotter, but combined with a slightly lean AFR, it contributed to that.
In: Mannol 5w40 Extreme, synth (likely semi-synth). Oil temp is now peaking at 125degC.
For safety's sake, I'll be fitting an oil cooler soon, to avoid the overheating edge while I work on fuelling a bit more. The bike is normally used for local pottering around but it gets ridden hard.
I changed out the oil a little early on my Goldwing.
92,930 miles on the bike, 3,480 miles/6 months on oil.
Out: Peak 15w-40 syn-blend and a NAPA Platinum 41356
In: Supertech 15w40 and a Fram PH7317 (with orange ADV)
I already posted the reason for it in another post, but will post it here as well since I actually changed the oil this afternoon.
The Goldwing is a 5,000 mile interval service (just easier to remember to do it every 5,000 miles on the odometer)
I discovered last month I had a leaking clutch slave cylinder.
Because of how it is set up, there is a small possibility that some of the brake fluid may have leaked into the oil.
I really don't think it did, but I don't want to chance it.
I went with Supertech and a Fram because of this, ~$15 for piece of mind.
It will be a short 2,000 mile run as well, just to get me to 95,000 miles.
A that time, hopefully Mobil 1 has a rebate again.
If so, I will be getting some Mobil 1 10w-40 HM and use another NAPA Platinum from my stash.
I can then go back to the 5,000 mile interval on the 5's.
Here is what the slave looked like if you are interested:
Slave cylinder:
Inside where slave mounts, where rod goes into engine:
I also ended up having to rebuild the clutch master cylinder as well. Found it had been leaking a little as well, so took care of that at the same time.
Now has fresh seals and fresh DOT 4 fluid, so good for another 2 years.
Brakes are due for flush as well (was done about 2 years ago), and will be doing those in the next few weeks.
92,930 miles on the bike, 3,480 miles/6 months on oil.
Out: Peak 15w-40 syn-blend and a NAPA Platinum 41356
In: Supertech 15w40 and a Fram PH7317 (with orange ADV)
I already posted the reason for it in another post, but will post it here as well since I actually changed the oil this afternoon.
The Goldwing is a 5,000 mile interval service (just easier to remember to do it every 5,000 miles on the odometer)
I discovered last month I had a leaking clutch slave cylinder.
Because of how it is set up, there is a small possibility that some of the brake fluid may have leaked into the oil.
I really don't think it did, but I don't want to chance it.
I went with Supertech and a Fram because of this, ~$15 for piece of mind.
It will be a short 2,000 mile run as well, just to get me to 95,000 miles.
A that time, hopefully Mobil 1 has a rebate again.
If so, I will be getting some Mobil 1 10w-40 HM and use another NAPA Platinum from my stash.
I can then go back to the 5,000 mile interval on the 5's.
Here is what the slave looked like if you are interested:
Slave cylinder:
Inside where slave mounts, where rod goes into engine:
I also ended up having to rebuild the clutch master cylinder as well. Found it had been leaking a little as well, so took care of that at the same time.
Now has fresh seals and fresh DOT 4 fluid, so good for another 2 years.
Brakes are due for flush as well (was done about 2 years ago), and will be doing those in the next few weeks.
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Good deal on fixing the problem. Interested on how it is set up there is an outside possibility to get into the oil. Would it be safe to think if oil wasn't leaking out, that no brake fluid would leak in?
Brake fluid is a lot thinner than oil, and with the rod pushing in and out thousands of times with brake fluid on it, it could get in there.
I really doubt and did, but like I said, cheap insurance to just go ahead and change it.
If I only had 1000 miles on the oil, I might of had a harder time doing it (but still would have changed it), but with almost 3500 miles on the oil, I am OK with it.
I really doubt and did, but like I said, cheap insurance to just go ahead and change it.
If I only had 1000 miles on the oil, I might of had a harder time doing it (but still would have changed it), but with almost 3500 miles on the oil, I am OK with it.
2016 Yamaha WR450F
Out: Yamalube synthetic 10w40
In: Motorex Power Synt 10w50
11.5 engine hours on this oil service interval. Used oil was medium dark but still translucent, felt very smooth with good flow. New oil filter, checked oil screen, everything looks great. Minimal debris on magnetic drain plug.
Out: Yamalube synthetic 10w40
In: Motorex Power Synt 10w50
11.5 engine hours on this oil service interval. Used oil was medium dark but still translucent, felt very smooth with good flow. New oil filter, checked oil screen, everything looks great. Minimal debris on magnetic drain plug.
2000 Kwak ZZR600 E9 with ca 54k miles
Out: Mobil Delvac 10W-40 (recommended viscosity) and OEM filter
Engine flush: 1 litre of diesel and 2 litres of new Delvac, idle for 15-20 min then drain again
In: Same Mobil Delvac oil with Hiflo oil filter.
Out: Mobil Delvac 10W-40 (recommended viscosity) and OEM filter
Engine flush: 1 litre of diesel and 2 litres of new Delvac, idle for 15-20 min then drain again
In: Same Mobil Delvac oil with Hiflo oil filter.
How often are you changing your final drive fluid?
I do mine every other oil change on the Goldwing (every 10,000 miles). More often than needed, but it is so easy and cheap to do, why not.
This was the second change since I got the bike about 2.5 years ago, maybe 4500 miles. The factory spec was something higher than that. I had a '72 BMW airhead for many years that saw more mileage, maybe 3k to 8k a year. That was an annual change. Three components that took gear oil on that: trans, driveshaft and final drive. I seem to be swimming in gear oils. May as well use it.
I'd say that you're doing the right thing at 10k on the GW.
Yamaha Super Tenere: Fram Ultra (wire backed) and Super Tech 10w40 Synthetic
BMW R1200GS: Fram Ultra (wire backed) and Castrol Power 1 5w40 Synthetic
Honda Goldwing GL1800: Fram Ultra (wire backed) and Super Tech 10w40 Synthetic
Oil changed at earlier of 1 year or 5000 miles, Filters changed around 10,000 miles. I have a Ultra wire-backed stash that will last me 10 years or so.
BMW R1200GS: Fram Ultra (wire backed) and Castrol Power 1 5w40 Synthetic
Honda Goldwing GL1800: Fram Ultra (wire backed) and Super Tech 10w40 Synthetic
Oil changed at earlier of 1 year or 5000 miles, Filters changed around 10,000 miles. I have a Ultra wire-backed stash that will last me 10 years or so.
2003 Honda XR400R
Out: 0.9 qt Honda GN4 10w40 and 0.9 qt Rotella T6 synthetic 15w40, Neutron oil filter
In: 0.9 qt Honda GN4 10w40 and 0.9 qt Rotella T4 15w40, Neutron oil filter.
Filter was in service for 3 intervals and looked great. Drained oil had 8 months and 4 gnarly full-day rides on it, was slightly dark with a light metallic sheen, still very smooth and very slippery, seems it could have gone much longer...? This engine is air cooled and runs hot so I like to change the oil a little more often. Maybe someday I will get an oil analysis but at this point I prefer to spend money on more frequent oil services.
Out: 0.9 qt Honda GN4 10w40 and 0.9 qt Rotella T6 synthetic 15w40, Neutron oil filter
In: 0.9 qt Honda GN4 10w40 and 0.9 qt Rotella T4 15w40, Neutron oil filter.
Filter was in service for 3 intervals and looked great. Drained oil had 8 months and 4 gnarly full-day rides on it, was slightly dark with a light metallic sheen, still very smooth and very slippery, seems it could have gone much longer...? This engine is air cooled and runs hot so I like to change the oil a little more often. Maybe someday I will get an oil analysis but at this point I prefer to spend money on more frequent oil services.
89 Honda 650NT Hawk…first oil change since I bought the bike last year….Rotella T4 15/40, Wix filter
1961 BSA A10 650 hot rod…Fresh engine run in on Jegs 20/50 breakin oil, added on Hi Flo filter. Motul 10/30 wet clutch oil in the primary case, Motul 90 GL4 in the gearbox. A few hundred miles and just changed oil to Valvoline VR1 20/50 conventional, new Hi Flo filter.
1961 BSA A10 650 hot rod…Fresh engine run in on Jegs 20/50 breakin oil, added on Hi Flo filter. Motul 10/30 wet clutch oil in the primary case, Motul 90 GL4 in the gearbox. A few hundred miles and just changed oil to Valvoline VR1 20/50 conventional, new Hi Flo filter.
2001 ZRX1200
76,283 miles
5,001 miles on oil
Out: Mobil 1 10w40 MC 4T
In: Red Line 20w50 MC 4T
ProFilter PF-401
Analysis sample sent.
76,283 miles
5,001 miles on oil
Out: Mobil 1 10w40 MC 4T
In: Red Line 20w50 MC 4T
ProFilter PF-401
Analysis sample sent.
Your going away from your go to M1 10w40 and 20w50 ?
I was thinking the same, maybe his wallet was getting too thick!
Lol, I picked some Redline up in the winter of 2020, $8 a quart shipped. Still plenty of M1 on the garage shelf but I'm gonna give this a run just to be different. Don't think it's gonna be a backward step, so I'm gonna let 'er rip. Then I can report back to all the Redline lovers/haters and M1 lovers/haters the results in as consistent of an "experiment" as possible. When I changed the M1 yesterday, after the ride that took it over 5000 miles on the OCI, it shifted is slick and positive as it did the day I put it in. Love the M1.I was thinking the same, maybe his wallet was getting too thick!
2017 Kawasaki Voyager 1700
5400 miles on bike
1575 miles on oil
Change out of oil/filter coming out of winter storage
Out: Motul 7100 10w40 (4qts) 20w50 (1 qt) - HiFlo oil filter
In: Motul 7100 10w40 (4qts) 20w50 (1qt) OEM filter.
5400 miles on bike
1575 miles on oil
Change out of oil/filter coming out of winter storage
Out: Motul 7100 10w40 (4qts) 20w50 (1 qt) - HiFlo oil filter
In: Motul 7100 10w40 (4qts) 20w50 (1qt) OEM filter.
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